Tool recommendations, information on your favorite automatic and/or mechanical lockpicking devices for those with less skills, or looking to make their own.
by UWSDWF » 21 Dec 2006 5:53
drag_on1166 wrote:well thoe i have never tried a pick gun you guys keep talking about how hard american locks are to pick becaus they have a lot of security pins how easy is it to pick a brit lock i mean my fastes pick time on my master lock "american" is like 5 seconds with a rake pick how easy is it to pick the lock wher you are?
american lock is a brand not in ref to a lock that comes from america
viewtopic.php?t=17147
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by JackNco » 21 Dec 2006 9:44
UWSDWF wrote:drag_on1166 wrote:well thoe i have never tried a pick gun you guys keep talking about how hard american locks are to pick becaus they have a lot of security pins how easy is it to pick a brit lock i mean my fastes pick time on my master lock "american" is like 5 seconds with a rake pick how easy is it to pick the lock wher you are?
american lock is a brand not in ref to a lock that comes from america viewtopic.php?t=17147
UR right UWSDWF but im yet 2 finda padlock in a hardware store/shop in england ive had trouble with. true enough i haven't shelled out big money yet but i think in general your padlocks are better and most door looks seem to be apart from the bumping problem. but i could be wrong. most people seem to have cheap yale locks or lever locks on there house here
John
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by drag_on1166 » 22 Dec 2006 1:51
JackNco wrote:UWSDWF wrote:drag_on1166 wrote:well thoe i have never tried a pick gun you guys keep talking about how hard american locks are to pick becaus they have a lot of security pins how easy is it to pick a brit lock i mean my fastes pick time on my master lock "american" is like 5 seconds with a rake pick how easy is it to pick the lock wher you are?
american lock is a brand not in ref to a lock that comes from america viewtopic.php?t=17147
UR right UWSDWF but im yet 2 finda padlock in a hardware store/shop in england ive had trouble with. true enough i haven't shelled out big money yet but i think in general your padlocks are better and most door looks seem to be apart from the bumping problem. but i could be wrong. most people seem to have cheap yale locks or lever locks on there house here John
well idk i dont lick bump picking if thats what you are refering to and most people wher i live southern ca us have a door with a handle lock with a security screen with a door lock and dead bolt
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by dab » 5 Feb 2007 22:07
5 min of high "power" pick gun action, will chew up any security pin/spool pin. But when the brass starts coming out the key hole it's gotta be replaced........
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by gademsky » 11 Feb 2017 16:52
I just acquired an HPC lock pick pistol along with some other tools from a retired locksmith. Never thought much about using a gun but now I have it and gave it a try. My first half hour proved frustrating and so I tried a few utube videos. None of them help much with actual use of gun. They are fine if you want to know theory behind bumping, but after a year of picking every day I know the theory and how locks work.
Next I tried google search "PDF use of lock pick gun". Didn't get much.
Does anyone here have a good set of learning pages or learning teaching videos for this gun. It sure looks simple enough.....maybe by tomorrow, with a couple hours practice I will catch on.
Anybody know any links?
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by Jacob Morgan » 11 Feb 2017 17:24
Try this: The person talking goes into technique near the end of the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEoWR0pi_HQHave a couple of pick guns, one an old no-name, and one by A-1. Sometimes they can pop locks opens quickly, other times not. They take skill to use. One thing to keep in mind is that they can put some pressure on the pin stacks to the extent that spring covers can become dislodged. Not suggested for Kwikset KIK, etc. Even had a mortise cylinder once where the strip that holds the springs in became dislodged in the back. Also, if the pick is rough on the top edges, sand it lightly, otherwise those rough edges will wear down the pins faster and make more brass dust.
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by tpark » 11 Feb 2017 19:03
You can use the pick gun to open the Master 130   Actually I noticed one of the plugs coming out, and since it was my lock and pick gun, I decided to find out how far I could go with it. I've actually had good luck with a pick gun, but I keep this as a reminder to use low spring tension initially, and not to overdo a good thing.
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by billdeserthills » 12 Feb 2017 3:37
The real, actual trick to using a pick gun well is the pick blade needs to hit all the pin stacks at the same time That way the bottom pins will all bounce up & then when they hit the top pins, and be deflected back downward-- At this moment the sheer line will be clear, all the way across for a moment, and this is where the tension comes into play
It can take years of practice to learn the correct tension and pick gun angle, or you could pick it right up
I really like the pick gun, once you get the hang of it, it works very fast
My last tip is to make sure the pick needle is tight, if the needle loosens up the pick gun will never work
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by GWiens2001 » 12 Feb 2017 10:10
tpark wrote:You can use the pick gun to open the Master 130   Actually I noticed one of the plugs coming out, and since it was my lock and pick gun, I decided to find out how far I could go with it. I've actually had good luck with a pick gun, but I keep this as a reminder to use low spring tension initially, and not to overdo a good thing.
Now that is some funny stuff! Lock pick guns used for disassembly. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by tjohn » 12 Feb 2017 11:23
they paid you with a free $5-$7 dollar meal?
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by tjohn » 12 Feb 2017 11:29
Never mind, I just noticed I was reading a reply from long ago 
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by Jacob Morgan » 12 Feb 2017 15:39
In case anyone is interested, here is what the inside of a pick gun looks like (the A1 make, at any rate). The area circled in red would be the sear, if this were a real gun, it is where the spring tension is suddenly released.  Here it is with the trigger most of the way back, about to let go. When the chrome-plated V shaped piece is pushed back a bit more by the trigger the small black L shaped piece will be released, that will let go a plunger held back by a spring that is not visible, in the black rectangle of sheet metal just left of the tension adjustment. The tension adjustment increases or decreases the load on that spring. When the plunger lets go it smacks the bracket that holds the pick, and that propels the bracket, and the pick, in an arc.  I do not think there is any great reason to have screws instead of rivets on a pick gun--maybe re-greasing of the wear areas every 5 years would be good. Regarding usage, something else to throw out there is not to stick the pick in too far. It does not need to extend past the last pin. There are some locks where sticking the pick in too far will cause it to hang up on a goofy cam at the back of the lock.
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