Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by cyclops1101 » 5 Jan 2007 8:44
Couldnt help but notice that there were 3 pins in one stack i.e the key pin, driver pin, spring and steel pin.
I thought pin tumblers only have the key and driver. What purpose does the steel pin serve?
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by UWSDWF » 5 Jan 2007 8:59
anti drill possibly
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by illusion » 11 Jan 2007 16:05
cyclops1101 wrote:Couldnt help but notice that there were 3 pins in one stack i.e the key pin, driver pin, spring and steel pin. I thought pin tumblers only have the key and driver. What purpose does the steel pin serve?
In all honesty, and kindness, I thought it was fairly obvious, but it seems I was wrong.
There is a fair amount of distance between the plug and the top of the padlock body, and because tricircle don't simply use longer springs or change the design they put a third pins in as 'spacers'
I didn't include this in my guide because I thought it was obvious, but
I'm glad you asked and perhaps cleared it up for others who also wondered.
Cheers. 
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by cyclops1101 » 12 Jan 2007 5:01
Thanks for the peace of mind!
Do the steel pins always contact the top of the plug or pushed up with the spring/pins when key inserted?
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by illusion » 12 Jan 2007 8:45
cyclops1101 wrote:Thanks for the peace of mind! Do the steel pins always contact the top of the plug or pushed up with the spring/pins when key inserted?
They don't contact the plug at all.
you have the 'bottom pin' which contacts the plug, and then on top of these you have the 'top pin' which gets lifted to the sheer line during operation use - still with me?
Okay, so on top of the 'top pin' you have the spring that pushes both the top and bottom pins down. The springs are too short to reach the top of the padlock body, so the steel pins go on top of the springs and allow the springs to contact a solid surface. The steel pins are constantly pushed against the padlock body, and don't move at all.
Many padlocks avoid this by simply boring the holes and putting large plugs into them, thus allowing the springs to work without the need of additional pins. The Triciricle doesn't actually plug the holes as this guide demonstrates, but instead just covers the surface. Whilst this is good in respect that it allows my re-pinning technique to work-I don't imagine they designed it for my benefit though lol-it means that they need to use extra pins.
Does this clear things up? 
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by hurri » 12 Jan 2007 9:16
You've worked hard...congratulations. 
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by cyclops1101 » 13 Jan 2007 6:58
They don't contact the plug at all
My bad, I meant the opposite. Thanks for clearing it up
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by Sesame » 13 Feb 2007 17:52
Sweet guide, Illusion. Thanks for the effort.
Sounds like a must-do DIY project. Now I just have to find a lock like that. I think I might try to mill the slot out to the edge of the lock so I can put a sliding door in.
Nothing is so embarrassing as watching someone do something that you said couldn't be done.
- Sam Ewing
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by Kaellman » 4 Mar 2007 14:24
Tried this a long time ago with fair success. Take Illusion's advice on being careful when drilling the holes. Springs are fragile things u know
_Good_ werk btw.
Dom Sheldon (Tom Sneddon) is a cold man
Domas Sheldon (Thomas Sneddon) is a cold man
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by samfishers » 18 Apr 2007 17:53
what is if you dont have the marked place where all the pins are, like in the master 140, can you or can you dont?
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by butterboy » 16 May 2007 14:30
This was a fun project for me this morning ,after another thead got me all upset about ,nothing, really.
Any way my lock was a 5 pin and smaller but what my question was is that I ended up with an extra spring and doesnt look like the others and the shackel doesnt POP open you have to help it out , so ,is that sping for the shackel? and how would I get it back in ?
Any way this was a fun little project, and now that little tricircle is open and i can repin it to practice.
I used a little piece of wiper insert for the cap,it fits tight and i gave it a little bend on the end so you can grabe it with nedel nose plires and pull it out to change pins,also I used some abus pins from another disasimbled lock they seem to fit well.
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by Avenger » 21 May 2007 8:06
can you do that with every padlock. i have one 4pin padlock that i would like to spit its guts out  but i dont want it damaged later on.
how hard is drilling? can you do that with ordinary drill or is that considered slaughtering the lock
and one more thing, perhaps a stupid question, but i couldnt find it (answer) anywhere. is it called tri-circle lock because of 3 pins?
very nice tutor by the way
...no sparks of hope inside
no shooting stars on my sky
on broken wings no flying high...
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by Afisch » 21 May 2007 8:29
It is not a Tri-Circle due to having 3 pins. Tri-circle is simply a brand name. Mine has 4 pins.
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by Avenger » 21 May 2007 17:22
no no...i didnt mean three pins like this:
\/ \/ \/
but three like this
0
0
0
if you get my point
...no sparks of hope inside
no shooting stars on my sky
on broken wings no flying high...
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by Shrub » 22 May 2007 7:32
Tri-circle is a brand name as already said just like master lock or chubb,
A tri circle padlock can come in many differant pin configerations depending on model and size,
I dont get your point im a fraid but if you mean are the pins oddly spaced then no they arent,
If you mean are the pins another shape than round then no,
If you mean are the pins anything other than a pin then no,
If you mean do the pins have anything other than straight sides then no they dont,
If you mean do they have spool pins in then yes some can have,
Other than that i have no idea what you are on about, the actual question you asked was one of 'is it called tricircle lock because of 3 pins' to which you were given the answer,
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