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by Deathadder » 13 Jan 2007 16:36
mine tends to get a little sticky sometimes, but just take a snake rake (and make sure its aligned with the pins, not the top of the keyway as it is slanted, for that could be your problem) and pull it out a couple times
if that doesnt work, try picking it from front to back instead of back to front, thats the only way i can pick it.
It's ok guys, i have a really bad attention sp-wow look, a beach!
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by Nicky the Greek » 13 Jan 2007 16:52
OK thanks, do i need to apply a lot of tension or does it matter on this one?
Thanks for your time,
Nick
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by iNtago » 13 Jan 2007 20:43
i may just have a good lock but my #40 is pretty simple to spp open with light-med tension.
But when i first got the lock (back when i first started) i used heavy tension and used the southOrd "s rake". Still i rarely got it open (broke the rake and my peterson reach(used it too much)   )
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by Nicky the Greek » 13 Jan 2007 22:14
haha that must suck to break a pick. I've never done it, i've bent one a little but never broken one. I'll try the medium tension tip and other advice i've received.
Thanks for your time,
Nick
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by Deathadder » 14 Jan 2007 15:44
mine is kinda old, so i have to use a little less tension and a little more pushing with the rake, but that shouldn't be the case with yours if it is brand new. The main problem i had was getting the pick at the right angle because of the angled keyway, something like this...

It's ok guys, i have a really bad attention sp-wow look, a beach!
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by Nicky the Greek » 14 Jan 2007 20:51
heh i get it, i can't wait to try to pick it again. My new picks should be it tomorrow so i should (with any luck) be picking it by monday night. Thanks for the advice, and it is brand new. I think it'll take medium to heavy tension to get it.
nick
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by iNtago » 14 Jan 2007 20:56
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by jimmysmith » 15 Jan 2007 4:54
in the video. when the lock is lcoked, the keyhole is upside down? Are you sure thats a real master lock # 40 in the video. I own a master #40, the lock is chrome but the keyway is brass or goldish color. and is right side up. honestly i have trouble picking this lock all the time. I walk away from this lock pissed more times them I will admit.
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by iNtago » 16 Jan 2007 3:45
when the lock is lcoked, the keyhole is upside down?
yes Are you sure thats a real master lock # 40 in the video
yes Are you sure yours is a real master lock 40 and not a brinks R40(i think)?? I own a master #40, the lock is chrome but the keyway is brass or goldish color
Hmm i dont know maybe mines a bit older and is right side up
Lucky. mines harder to pick when mounted its pin-side-down and i practice pin-side-up
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by jimmysmith » 16 Jan 2007 12:56
what lock would be easier to pick. thats brinks r40 or that master #40?
does ether have One-up on each other? whats the better lock? what lock has more flaws?
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by jimmysmith » 16 Jan 2007 12:59
Do both have 4 pins?
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by raimundo » 16 Jan 2007 13:29
picks are harder than the brass of the lock, if you use an unsanded pick on a brass lock, you will find that the pickshaft will fill with metal dust that looks a bit yellow until you wipe it off and it turns black, this is the metal dust mixed with graphite or something, but when its on the pick shaft it will appear yellow, as its fresh from being filed off.
when a practice lock has been used, several things may go wrong with it. these are some of the reasons why they say never practice on locks you use.
hard tension applied at the bottom of the keyway can cause the cylinder shell to become eroded from the tensor into a groove that effectively grounds the tensor, this is a no picking is possible situation until you become aware of it and start to compensate.
also, a lot of picking with sharp edged tools, can put stria on the lower pins from the sharp pick point. these stria can also intefer with the free falling of the pin in its drilling, if it interacts with stria fromthe picks inside the wall of the pin drilling. also, the dust from grinding pins in this way can become a problem, and for those who believe that locks always pick in the same pin order, this can change that order.
if either of these cases
My best recommendation is that you change to a wider tensor blade and try to work around any groove you may have cut in the cylinderwall at the bottom of the keyway. I have often thought that a roller bearing would be just the thing to put at the bottom of a keyway to make sure that binding did not occur there,
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by jimmysmith » 18 Jan 2007 0:08
Are there secerity pins in a master 40?
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