European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.
by Chucklz » 26 Apr 2004 11:26
Here in the US, ive found that a good schlage cylinder and a good yale cylinder are about equal. What really sets the yale apart though, is the keyway.
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Chucklz
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by Quin » 1 May 2004 15:49
Ok, this thing is proving tough so tonight I took it apart to see why
The lock uses Yale’s new X5 Technology. The pins are all hardened steel. There is a hardened steel ball bearing above the key way and 2 hardened steel pins either side of that. The springs are 2 different sizes.
Yale’s take on it is:
"Exceeds highest European Security grade 5. Anti pick, anti drill - hardened steel pins and ball bearings protect the lock"
I still haven't given up on it but it is living up to its name. At least now I know why I've been having slight problems 
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Quin
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by mbell » 1 May 2004 16:18
Yale are becoming even more high security!
Is there a hardened steel bearing in front of the first pin? It's be nice seeing how this lock fairs against the rotary pick tool!
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mbell
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by HeadHunterCEO » 1 May 2004 16:39
something about these high security cylinders with hardened plugs and anti dril points.
I have yet to see one where they protect the screws tha hold the core into the door.......
Doorologist
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HeadHunterCEO
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by Chucklz » 1 May 2004 18:07
That ball bearing sounds scary when it comes to drilling, but I think that with aa little bit of time, the ball bearing could be removed without too much effort, and then the lock could be drilled normally.
As for picking, I would offer the following
1. Identify where all the spools are (easy now that the lock is apart)
2. Identify binding order irregardless of spools etc.
3. Reverse pick the spools, when encountered (Raise them high, then let them drop down to the true shear line)
4. Open lock
5. Congratulate self
6. Have a pint
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Chucklz
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by Pheniox » 1 May 2004 21:53
Chucklz wrote:As for picking, I would offer the following
1. Identify where all the spools are (easy now that the lock is apart) 2. Identify binding order irregardless of spools etc. 3. Reverse pick the spools, when encountered (Raise them high, then let them drop down to the true shear line) 4. Open lock 5. Congratulate self 6. Have a pint
Chucklz, shame on you. THIS is the proper order!
1. Have a pint
2. Identify where all the spools are (easy now that the lock is apart)
3. Have a pint
4. Identify binding order irregardless of spools etc.
5. Have a pint
6. Realize you were drunk and the binding order is wrong
7. Have a pint
8. Have a pint
9. Reverse pick the spools, when encountered (Raise them high, then let them drop down to the true shear line)
10. Have a pint
11. Open lock
12. Have a pint
13. Pass out halfway though the pint
*NOTE* LP101 does NOT support having lots of pints and picking locks... unless you post pictures of you drunk while picking.
That said, don't drink and drive kids.
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Pheniox
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by Quin » 2 May 2004 2:17
mbell wrote:Is there a hardened steel bearing in front of the first pin? It's be nice seeing how this lock fairs against the rotary pick tool!
Yup it is a HS ball bearing in front of the pin.
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Quin
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by Quin » 2 May 2004 2:18
Oh, I forgot to also mention that the first and last pins were normal with the 4 in the middle being the security pins.
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Quin
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by Mad Mick » 2 May 2004 8:13
Maybe I'm wrong here, but the two springs on the right look to have been compressed, and not originally of a different length to the others. Was a snap gun tried on this lock Quin?
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
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by Quin » 2 May 2004 11:09
Snap gun, electric pick, raking, picking, begging  and more
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Quin
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by toomush2drink » 2 May 2004 12:46
Ive just come back from my locksmith course and this came up, it also has harden plates where the screw fixings are that holds it to the door. It was beaten by the electric pick gun though, and they did have someone pick it by hand the week before but using massive tension. At the end of the day it was pointed out that while people fit these great barrels unless they fit a decent deadlock on the back it can be opened by other techniques.
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toomush2drink
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by Prodigy » 3 May 2004 8:50
Hey guys,
We have heaps of yales here down under, and yes i agree on some of the others, the pin at the base of the keyway NEEDS TO BE DEPRESSED first so as to allow the plug to turn. I would say this little device is designed to prevent tension to be placed on the pins untill it has been set in the housing.
this could also mean that the tolorence (the lock pickers friend) is slightly larger that normal. I like to pick locks that have mushroom, anti pick pins because this actually tells you have picked the lock.
Y just need to recheck each pin individually with lighter tension, the tension tool and plug will be wanting to go back to the 12 o'clock point. When it wants to do this, keep the tesnion on lightly and keep lifting till the pin is picked.
If all the pins fall it means the order needs to be changed, this can be done by simply checking the pins again or even change the tension direction.
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Prodigy
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by Jlo » 15 May 2004 3:55
Hi,
Those are nice photos!
Am I seeing correctly? Are those spool pins with 2 spools per pin (2 dimples on each pin)? I have not seen those type of spool pins before.
seen single spool and mushroom pins. Are the above pins becomming more popular?
Cheers
Jlo
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Jlo
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by Quin » 15 May 2004 7:27
Jlo wrote:Hi,
Those are nice photos!
Am I seeing correctly? Are those spool pins with 2 spools per pin (2 dimples on each pin)? I have not seen those type of spool pins before.
Yup 2 on each pin. I've also not seen these on Yales before but I guess their new X5 technology includes them as standard.
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Quin
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by technik » 15 May 2004 9:46
Prodigy, where do you find Yale locks? around the place, or in stores? If in stores can you pm where they are, coz I'm looking for a yale lock, cant find one anywhere!
Cheers
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technik
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