Lock Picking 101 Forum
A community dedicated to the fun and ethical hobby of lock picking.
       

Lock Picking 101 Home
Login
Profile
Members
Forum Rules
Frequent Forum Questions
SEARCH
View New Posts
View Active Topics


Live Chat on Discord
LP101 Forum Chat
Keypicking Forum Chat
Reddit r/lockpicking Chat



Learn How to Pick Locks
FAQs & General Questions
Got Beginner Questions?
Pick-Fu [Intermediate Level]


Ask a Locksmith
This Old Lock
This Old Safe
What Lock Should I Buy?



Hardware
Locks
Lock Patents
Lock Picks
Lock Bumping
Lock Impressioning
Lock Pick Guns, Snappers
European Locks & Picks
The Machine Shop
The Open Source Lock
Handcuffs


Member Spotlight
Member Introductions
Member Lock Collections
Member Social Media


Off Topic
General Chatter
Other Puzzles


Locksmith Business Info
Training & Licensing
Running a Business
Keyways & Key Blanks
Key Machines
Master Keyed Systems
Closers and Crash Bars
Life Safety Compliance
Electronic Locks & Access
Locksmith Supplies
Locksmith Lounge


Buy Sell Trade
Buy - Sell - Trade
It came from Ebay!


Advanced Topics
Membership Information
Special Access Required:
High Security Locks
Vending Locks
Advanced Lock Pick Tools
Bypass Techniques
Safes & Safe Locks
Automotive Entry & Tools
Advanced Buy/Sell/Trade


Locksport Groups
Locksport Local
Chapter President's Office
Locksport Board Room
 

Expected lifetime on L&F tubularlocks??

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Postby rohi » 25 Jan 2007 13:53

Ok, he re we go.
Forgive me for maybe using wrong terminology.

When the student key is placed in the lock, shearline 1 is used.
Due to the nature of tubular locks, the pinstacks cross over each other while the plug is turned.
When the key is removed at any position that is not the starting position, the pinstacks will lock with the wrong top pins, leaving at least 1 pin on the blind spot in the housing.
When the masterkey is than inserted, the pins in the masterkey ring will not be the right pins for the code of the masterkey, and because of that the first and second shearline will be blocked.

This is as clear as i can explain it.
If someone can do better, maybe with a diagram, please do so.

Ronald
Image
rohi
 
Posts: 201
Joined: 20 May 2005 19:27
Location: Netherlands, Wieringermeer

Postby mh » 25 Jan 2007 14:36

That makes sense.

But now imagine the other way around - the janitor has a worn-out key and messes around with the lock, removes the key at the wrong position.

In that case, a student key with the notch removed could still work, if inserted in that wrong position, because it uses the 1st shearline, and for that, the second set of pins does not matter.

So it *does* depend on which shearline is used for the master key, doesn't it?
If it was the other way around -as described above-, the janitor could open the locks non-destructively with a modified key.

Cheers,
mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
Image
mh
Moderator
 
Posts: 2437
Joined: 3 Mar 2006 4:32
Location: Germany

Postby rohi » 25 Jan 2007 14:47

The situation depends on the pin above the blind spot.
If this is a longer pin, the key will not be able to go in far enough to clear the shearline of the masterkey.

I'll think about this a little longer and come up with a diagram sometime tomorrownight, shootingrange is waiting right now :D

See ya'll soon,

Ronald
Image
rohi
 
Posts: 201
Joined: 20 May 2005 19:27
Location: Netherlands, Wieringermeer

Postby mh » 25 Jan 2007 17:29

rohi wrote:The situation depends on the pin above the blind spot.
If this is a longer pin, the key will not be able to go in far enough to clear the shearline of the masterkey.


That's right.
But if the locks always fail in that configuration -1 pin offset-, and the master key uses the 1st shear line, then
1) if that pin above the blind spot is shorter than the pin next to it, you just cut away the notch of the special master key - or
2) if that pin is longer than the pin next to it, you also cut the special master key at that position to the same code as the position next to it (or to a '9', doesn't matter).

All very theoretical, though, if L&F uses the other shearline.

But if not ... - you *could* :D

Cheers,
mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
Image
mh
Moderator
 
Posts: 2437
Joined: 3 Mar 2006 4:32
Location: Germany

Previous

Return to Got Questions? - Ask Beginner Hobby Lockpicking Questions Here

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests