Warded Padlocks - A Guide by illusion

[xnoobandrew]

thanks for the info, but I didn't know about skeleton keys..

whats the difference between those and keyblanks?

[illusion]

thanks for the info, but I didn't know about skeleton keys..

whats the difference between those and keyblanks?

Urmh... Key blanks aren't cut, whereas a 'skeleton key' has everything cut away except the part that engages the latch.

[whiteknight38]

I’ll see if I can explain this without a diagram.
It is important to understand that on Master locks, there are two springs clipped to the shackle, which must be simultaneously spread apart by a pick or key to pop the shackle.
Look at Spossum’s pic of the Master lock on the right. (The smaller of the two locks.) It’s made up of 16 laminated steel plates riveted together on the four corners. The topmost plate is a cap plate, with a tiny dimple in the center to stabilize the nipple shaped key tip.
The next two plates in line are dummy plates with circular holes to accommodate the key turning 360 degrees. This is where the broad key tip common to all Master brand keys opens up a U shaped spring holding the spring-loaded shackle. The U spring is the width of two stacked plates.
The next plate down, is a ward plate, a plate with only a slit in the center, which will only allow a key to turn, where that key has corresponding cut out notches.
The next plate is a dummy, hiding a thin sort or Z-shaped spring that helps keep the shackle from popping open, followed by any combination of wards or dummies according to the “combination, or code of the key. This configuration of U-Spring and Z-spring, is common to all Master locks, large or small, and are all housed in the same part of the lock body.
That’s why Spossum’s handmade Master skeleton key on the left (in his Nov !0th post) won’t work.
It only has one T-shaped tip, when a Master skeleton key needs two, (or a double-T) separated by a notch.
His next picture of the ground down key (Nov 14) has the required double-T tip.
Master has two keyway ward styles that I’m aware of. One is kind of a wave shape, and the other is an angular zig-zag shape. They are not mutually compatible, unless you file one or the other somewhat thinner, or you can do what he did, and make one out of hacksaw blade steel. They never seem to work as cleanly as a prepped Master brand key will, however.
By the way, Master makes two different sized keys for the two sizes of lock it makes. A prepped key for the larger of the two Master locks, (the type shown in Spossums first photo on the left) will also open the smaller size Master on the right, but not vice versa.
Master warded padlocks are about the only warded locks that employ the double spring locking concept. All the others I’ve seen just use one or the other, requiring a pick shaped like a single T or an L.
There are only ten potential combinations on any Master brand padlock, but a prepped double T key will open them all.

[Sesame]

Whitenight rides to the rescue.

Excellent post. Thanks.

Keep 'em coming.

[Spossum]

very nice whiteknight, thankyou very much

[a5an0]

Just read it. Great pictures! good work! very informative!

[nice7175]

i had spossums exact problem. i got it working fine now. too bad i cut one of my keys before reading through his post

thanks for the help, i wouldn't have any idea what to do without it.

[johna]

I've just read it. This is very strange kid of pad locks.I had many problems with them.I belive that something will chaged,after read this article.

[Shrub]

I've just read it. This is very strange kid of pad locks.I had many problems with them.I belive that something will chaged,after read this article.

Well the bypass has been around as long as the locks have so dont expect any change soon

[illidor]

WOW you couldnt have made that any easier to understand. GREAT work.
TY TY TY TY

[butterboy]

I have this small padlock,suitcase lock I supose.
Any way trying to pick it and finding it was warded, decided to make a key.
I useed some wiper steel, Put it in the key hole and marked where the first ward was and pulled out the "new key" and gave it a file about 3/16 of an inch above the end , on both sides and thined it out to my mark so I could turn it ,and of course it poped open anfter I turned it twice .
I was way stoked .
So I made another key that looked a little nicere bent a loop on the top put it on a key chain and now I have a key for that little lock thats been bouncing around for so long.

[YouOweMeAMuffin]

Very nice guide. Very clear and informative. What did you use to cut the key?

[tom55]

Nice guide. These old locks are easy to open.

[jmz5]

This is an excellent guide.

[illusion]

I saw on your bike pick that the tab is only to one side. Is this always enough for a warded lock?

I remember opening a diary book lock (not mine) once which I would consider a small warded lock. I was able to pick it with a paper clip making a "T" shape at the tip. When it finally broke I saw a spring at the top which had to be spread open by the tip to open. Would that be considered a warded lock? (sorry I got no images)

It was enough for my lock - I've seen some that do require tabs on both sides. It tends to be the older locks that have this feature - most of the newer ones seem to be clones of the lock I posted photos of.

The diary and luggage locks can often be opened by simply inserting an SO twist flex tension wrench into the lock and twisting - job done.

The term warded lock lends itself to the wards. You could have, for instance, a lever lock that had similar wards, which would be called a warded lever lock.

I'm not certain what mechanism you describe - I've forgottena lot in my somewhat extended absence from locksport. If you could give some better description, I'd be happy to help.