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repinnable euro cylinder that doesn’t need disassembling

European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.

repinnable euro cylinder that doesn’t need disassembling

Postby JackNco » 27 Jan 2007 14:43

Ok I have been thinking about making a repinable euro cylinder that doesn’t need disassembling every time I want to add more pins,change the pins or want a new challenge.

At first I was thinking about drilling the caps and tapping them and using grub screws as caps. I got the idea after seeing pictures of a medico biaxial. But then one day I got bored and took my trusty Birmingham screwdriver to a lock to see how it would work without tapping the holes.

Needed Items
-Euro Cylinder Lock
-Vice
-Thin Screwdriver
-Hammer
-Electrical Tape
-Thin Piece of Metal (See image in step<>)
-5 Extra driver pins.

First off you will need a standard Euro Cylinder. I used a single sided 5 pin as I had one on my desk when I got bored. I see no Reason why you couldn’t use a double sided lock with as many pins as you like. In fact a lock with more pins is probably a better idea but a 5 pin was the unfortunate lock that was sitting on my desk at the time.

Step 1
You will need to Disassemble the lock by inserting the key or picking it, removing the C-clips and first turning the plug then pulling it out. A more detailed guide can be found here http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?t=12441
Image


Step 2
locate the “Caps” that hold in the springs and pins at the bottom of the lock.
Image


Step 3
Now you will need to secure the lock in a vice with the caps facing up, make sure the lock is VERY secure so you don’t hurt yourself.
Image


Step 4
OK decision time, this step basically renders the lock useless as a functioning lock that could be used in a door. So make sure the lock is not needed. I also pretty much destroyed the screwdriver as well. You will need to use a hammer and the screwdriver to drive the caps through the body of the lock where they will fall in to the space that is usually taken up by the plug. It takes a bit of effort as you are reshaping the caps to fit through the holes.
Image
Image
Image

Step 5
Ok the hard parts over, now simply reinsert the plug and replace the C-clips.


Step 6
Now you have reassembled the lock but it contains no pins or springs you are nearly ready to repin it as you wish. But first you need a small piece of metal to stop the springs pushing the pins up. I used a small piece I removed from a Yale lock. Take 3 short pieces of electrical tape about 2” or 5cm long and over lap them with the piece of metal in the center.
Image
(I'm sorry I tried and tried but could NOT get a good picture of this but u get the idea)


Step 7
Now you can repin the lock as you wish from above. Now you will need to add 5 additional driver pins at the opposite end of the springs to the other driver pins to compensate to the lack of caps.
Image
(Note additional pins over the springs to compensate for the missing caps)

And then tape them down making sure the small piece of metal you are using sits over the pins and springs. Then trim the pate to make it look neat and you have a working practice lock you can repin in seconds by simply pealing back the electrical tape and replacing/adding/removing pin sets. You can also add and remove security pins in the same way to make the lock more of a challenge.
Image

this guide should work well with digital_blue’s “Beginner's Lock picking Exercise”
viewtopic.php?t=10677
But if u disagree please feel free to remove this DB

Any comments welcome and thanks for reading
Image
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Postby NKT » 27 Jan 2007 15:18

Very nice.

If you had some steel grub screws with an allen head, you could easily drive those into there for a bit more permanance. To save your screwdriver, hold a bit of steel wire or whatever with pliers, then tap with a hammer.

I actually might do this on a few locks. If I can get it down fast enough, it might be ideal for re-pinning a lock on the job.

:D 8)
Loading pithy, witty comment in 3... 2... 1...
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Postby rohi » 27 Jan 2007 15:21

I have a cilinder here, 909 brand, that has the caps on top of the plug instead of the bottom of the housing.
If these plug are removed and the plug is turned 180 degrees, you could just shake out the top pins and drop some new in at your liking.
One would need to pick the lock first though :wink:

Ronald
Image
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Postby rohi » 27 Jan 2007 15:23

:oops: I meant to say "if the caps are removed"
Image
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Postby net-rom » 27 Jan 2007 15:27

cool idea ! what about drilling a hole in each end of the top plade and fix it in place with screws in the first and last hole of the lock ? (your idea works fine but it will look more professionel and the lock will not get dirty and sticky from the tape :D )
If it isn't broken . . . fix it until it is !
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Postby JackNco » 27 Jan 2007 15:52

rohi wrote:I have a cilinder here, 909 brand, that has the caps on top of the plug instead of the bottom of the housing.
If these plug are removed and the plug is turned 180 degrees, you could just shake out the top pins and drop some new in at your liking.
One would need to pick the lock first though :wink:

Ronald


Ya you can do that with Yale door locks here just by taking the circlip off the back and pulling out a piece of metal (Actually the bit of metal i used on that bit of tape)

I was gonna tack it on the end of this but i got bored before i got to that point
maybe i should do a quick one.

But i liked this idea because u can change the driver pins and add or remove pins for training
Image
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Postby JackNco » 27 Jan 2007 15:55

net-rom wrote:cool idea ! what about drilling a hole in each end of the top plade and fix it in place with screws in the first and last hole of the lock ? (your idea works fine but it will look more professionel and the lock will not get dirty and sticky from the tape :D )


This was just something i did when i got bored. i could do a version 2 at some point thought i guess
Image
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Postby JackNco » 27 Jan 2007 23:24

Come on people 77 views and only 4 feedback replies!

Its my first guide so be brutal if you have nothing good to say then at least i know where im going wrong...
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Postby Bump » 28 Jan 2007 6:24

JackNo's inventiveness has a great deal of merit for lockpickers who want to re-pin their practise locks but, seriously, are some of you thinking that this is a valid idea for a Locksmith faced with re-pinning a customers working lock?

You cannot be serious! There is a better than even chance that you would be leaving the customer with a very dubious product liable to failure when the black tape degraded or your hamfisted attempts to drill and thread a pin hole in non-workshop conditions failed to retain the pins and springs. The return visit might be a bit frosty when you try and explain why your Heath-Robinson botch didnt work as you struggle with a cylinder that would be V difficult to extract.

Take into account the time it would take and, surely, its cheaper and more effective to just replace the lock! If a manufacturer ever came up with a mass market product incorporating the principles of the above it may make re-pinning at the door viable (grub screw and pin change) but until they do I'm afraid its "Sorry sir but I recommend you change your lock!" Re-pinning a low value cylinder is just not cost effective unless its part of a KA or MK suite.

That doesn't detract from the OP which I think is very valid as an engineering analysis but lets keep the business ideas real!
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Postby UWSDWF » 28 Jan 2007 7:02

I really don't think it was ever even thought of for professional uses. :roll:
Image
DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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Postby JackNco » 28 Jan 2007 11:49

UWSDWF wrote:I really don't think it was ever even thought of for professional uses. :roll:


Nope in that state it was intended for a beginners practice lock. the idea was taken from the medeco biaxial that has grub screws on the top and i thought it would make life easier for beginners and intermediates that are as lazy as me. :)
Image
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Postby Bump » 28 Jan 2007 13:38

NKT wrote:Very nice.


...............
I actually might do this on a few locks. If I can get it down fast enough, it might be ideal for re-pinning a lock on the job.

:D 8)


I think they did!
Image
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Postby xorb » 28 Jan 2007 13:47

Pillar drill, tapping tool, small grub screws with allen head, easy? :D

I did have this same idea, but then i though, for the hour your gonna spend doing this at someones house, just change the cylinder for a fraction of the labour costs. It's just not that ecconomically viable.
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Postby JackNco » 28 Jan 2007 13:55

Bump wrote:
NKT wrote:Very nice.


...............
I actually might do this on a few locks. If I can get it down fast enough, it might be ideal for re-pinning a lock on the job.

:D 8)


I think they did!


NKT also said he was thinking about using grub screws in his post. but the idea with what ive done is to help users not so we could argue about its real world applications, it was meant purely as a training aid. it even says in the guide that it will render the lock useless as a lock for a door.
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Postby xorb » 29 Jan 2007 5:57

question:

In a house environment this form of re-keying would be ideal.

In a large corporation building which has a master keyed system the ability for the average punter to take a bolt out, twidle the key and sabotage the cylinder by taking a hex key to the cylinder would be high.

Is this why cylinders have the pin plugs?????
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