Spacing problem cutting from depth keys

[WOT]

I've got some Schlage depth keys and tried originating some keys from code on my duplicator, but the resulting cuts are out towards the tip and produces a non-working key.

The spacing and depth on the depth keys are correct within a few mils. Even though the factory spec calls for +/- a mil, I don't think this is the issue as the copies are off relative to the depth keys as well.

I think the problem is the spacing between the stylus and the cutting wheel is off due to the wear on the left edge of that spring loaded alignment thingy. The tip of the left side alignment guide has measurably(on a caliper) less width than closer up to the base. Not sure if they're that way from factory and calibrated into proper width by bending or simply worn out.

Is there a way to adjust my machine, so the stylus to cutting wheel spacing matches the alignment arm spacing or do I have to buy a new spacing arm?

How much for a spacing arm for an ilco unican 025 and where would I possibly get such a part?

[WOT]

[Shrub]

Usually inserting a blank into each vice and adjusting until theres no cut works ok but as for step by step instructions on the actual bolts to slacken off for adjustment on your machine i dont know im sorry but it will be somthign as simple as that if you dont have obvious handles for it,

[linty]

you'll probably have to use a very thin washer type thing to shim the blade over just a tiny bit. i've had to do this before on a couple machines.

[2octops]

You can order a new tracer from your favorite ILCO Distributor. You might have to call them to find out who you can order from since you are not a locksmith.

On those, you simply bend the stop bar to adjust the spacing between the keys. It's the same procedure for some of the old Cole and Curtis machines.

Really....that's how the owners manual shows doing it.

They flex easily with a C clamp.

DO NOT SHIM THE CUTTER.

I thought you used that machine for cutting SCIF keys though. If it's the same machine, then the SFIC would show the difference also.

If the SFIC are correct and the Schlage are not, then you are not loading your keys correctly.

[Spike666]

you may need to load the key differently,use a diferent side of the head. you may need a new/different blade, or a stylus, misc parts are avail look online for ilco machines and get a parts explode view with numbers.

most key wholesale will sell to the public, in us for the mom n pop key duplicators and or flee market key cutters. I use them when I need blades for myself and customers because they have them in stock and usually I can pick them up that day.......

[WOT]

You can order a new tracer from your favorite ILCO Distributor. You might have to call them to find out who you can order from since you are not a locksmith.

On those, you simply bend the stop bar to adjust the spacing between the keys. It's the same procedure for some of the old Cole and Curtis machines.

Really....that's how the owners manual shows doing it.

They flex easily with a C clamp.

DO NOT SHIM THE CUTTER.

I thought you used that machine for cutting SCIF keys though. If it's the same machine, then the SFIC would show the difference also.

If the SFIC are correct and the Schlage are not, then you are not loading your keys correctly.

The original side key gauge is 3/1000" thinner near the tip width wise compared to the section closer to the base. The copy side doesn't show this.

When I use the key gauge with SFIC, I align it to the notch on the tip. The gauge can't reach down that far, so in doing so, I lift up the carriage which puts the tips at a part of the gauge closer to the base away from the worn area, so this might have something to do with it.


Here's how I load the keys:

I clamp down the source key secuerly. I gently slide the carriage into the gauge until it comes into contact. I then insert the blank into the copy side and make sure the key is pushed forward enough so the shoulder makes contact with the gauge.

Am I doing this wrong?

[2octops]

The original side key gauge is 3/1000" thinner near the tip width wise compared to the section closer to the base. The copy side doesn't show this.

When I use the key gauge with SFIC, I align it to the notch on the tip. The gauge can't reach down that far, so in doing so, I lift up the carriage which puts the tips at a part of the gauge closer to the base away from the worn area, so this might have something to do with it.


Here's how I load the keys:

I clamp down the source key secuerly. I gently slide the carriage into the gauge until it comes into contact. I then insert the blank into the copy side and make sure the key is pushed forward enough so the shoulder makes contact with the gauge.

Am I doing this wrong?

Yeah, you're loading the keys correctly.

3/1000" is not much and honestly should not have any effect on a key that was cut on a properly adjusted machine since the root of the cut is wider than the diameter of the pin by much more.

Try using the Schlages and raise the carriage up so the key contacts away from the tips of the shoulder stop on the machine. If it works out ok, then you can either file the cutter side of the tip of the shoulder stop (very little) or just order a replacement.

Replacing the shoulder stop will require calibrating the machine again.

You can also call tech support mon-fri 8-5 EST at 800-334-1381 and they can walk you through calibrating the machine.