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Help a fellow locksmith out...

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Help a fellow locksmith out...

Postby fsdhy » 9 Feb 2007 15:49

Hey guys. I've got a couple drawers here that have locks on them that are enclosed completely in sheet metal. The locks are codes FR408 and FR422. Instacode says these are Chicago codes, the blank should be either an AP1, AP2, AP3 or AP4 and shows me the bitting.

Now, I don't have any of those blanks. I do, however, have AP5. It fits into the lock. I tried cutting the key on an AP5, and no dice. I'm not sure if I've got the wrong code series, whether its the blank, or what.

Anyone have experience with this series? If you've got the bitting for this series, shoot me a PM. I'll let you know what Instacode says, and you can tell me if thats the same thing you have or not.

Thanks!
fsdhy
 
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Postby fsdhy » 9 Feb 2007 16:43

Nevermind, I got permission to rip the inside of the drawer apart.... :D
fsdhy
 
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Postby linty » 9 Feb 2007 17:55

these blanks are ilco 101am-104am keys. that series is usually for steel case cabinets, and you really shouldn't need to tear anything apart.
linty
 
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Postby HeadHunterCEO » 9 Feb 2007 21:17

take a lock pick and lift the last wafer to pull the cylinder out . if you feel the back of the lock and there is a screw ,remove it and the cylinder will come out.
Doorologist
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Postby 2octops » 10 Feb 2007 0:23

Or just impression it.
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Postby maxxed » 10 Feb 2007 3:15

The AP5 is a master blank, wafer locks like this are sometimes master keyed by having a different height on each side of the keyway. The blade of the key on the regular blanks are on one side and the AP5 is on the other and that is why the AP5 did not work.

note: not all of these locks are masterkeyed
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Postby Wolfe » 10 Feb 2007 11:45

Those are BMW keys if im not mistaken
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Postby Wolfe » 10 Feb 2007 11:47

hit the wrong button. Im not sure but i think this falls under the dreaded ADVANCED TOPIC.
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Postby fsdhy » 12 Feb 2007 16:35

maxxed wrote:The AP5 is a master blank, wafer locks like this are sometimes master keyed by having a different height on each side of the keyway. The blade of the key on the regular blanks are on one side and the AP5 is on the other and that is why the AP5 did not work.

note: not all of these locks are masterkeyed


AP5 worked fine and the blade was definitely on the correct side. There definitely was only one set of wafers inside the lock.


you really shouldn't need to tear anything apart.


By "tearing it apart" I just mean to disassemble the metal compartment. I didn't actually have to break anything, lol.



take a lock pick and lift the last wafer to pull the cylinder out . if you feel the back of the lock and there is a screw ,remove it and the cylinder will come out.


That's not how the retainer was constructed. I know what you mean, the USCAN cam locks I sell are like that. But on these locks, the retainer was one of those "outside" o-rings. There was a slight gap cut around the outside of the lock, and I popped the o-ring out with a small pin once I had disassembled the sheetmetal case on the drawer.



With the locks out of the drawers, I read the key and cut them onto some AP5s. The bitting was not even close to what Instacode says, and AP5 worked fine. Thanks anyway guys.
fsdhy
 
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Postby fsdhy » 12 Feb 2007 16:38

Wolfe wrote:Those are BMW keys if im not mistaken


Yeah, these are definitely NOT BMW keys.... :lol: I think I can tell the difference between a BMW automobile and a small drawer lock.... LMAO.... :lol:
fsdhy
 
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