Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe
The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.
by WhiteHat » 8 May 2004 2:33
Hi there,
How do locksmiths change driver pins or damaged springs in a normal pin tumbler? I find that I have to put the pin in the casing, push it down with a pick or something, then slide a follower over the pin. - I can swap the bottom pins arround in a few seconds, but the top pins (not that you have to do it often) take about 30 seconds for each pin.
any help?
WhiteHat
Oh look! it's 2016!
-
WhiteHat
-
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: 28 Jan 2004 21:41
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
-
by lock_assassin » 8 May 2004 8:06
I think the way you are doing it right now is how most people do it when reinstalling the top pins, using the plug follower to hold each one in as you depress it. Most of the locks I've seen have a crimped on cover plate and it is very hard not to damage anything removing it, plus getting it to stay on tight after you reinstall it.
I know some Kwiksets locks use a cover plate that just snaps into place on top of the plug. The repinning kit I have has new cover plates but if you are careful it would be reusable. I have seen a few other locks (Medeco for example) the use allen/set screws to retain each pin stack individually.
Hope this helps...
lock_assassin
-
lock_assassin
-
- Posts: 86
- Joined: 20 Sep 2003 8:13
- Location: Huntington, IN
by technik » 8 May 2004 8:54
alot of locks you can just slide the top brass cover plate off. (Off the top of my head OEM and Lockwood locks have this feature (the models I have, no guarentees)
-
technik
-
- Posts: 395
- Joined: 12 Jan 2004 1:40
- Location: Australia
by HeadHunterCEO » 8 May 2004 11:34
WhiteHat wrote:Hi there,
How do locksmiths change driver pins or damaged springs in a normal pin tumbler? I find that I have to put the pin in the casing, push it down with a pick or something, then slide a follower over the pin. - I can swap the bottom pins arround in a few seconds, but the top pins (not that you have to do it often) take about 30 seconds for each pin.
any help?
WhiteHat
use twezers instead of a pick
Doorologist
-
HeadHunterCEO
-
- Posts: 1262
- Joined: 7 Apr 2004 21:10
- Location: NY,NY
by Safekey » 8 May 2004 16:05
Dont often have the need to repin the tops in the standard cylinders.
But, do a lot of pinning on master key systems... for this I use a cylinder jig. Does 5 & 6 pin Rim, Euro and Oval cylinders in no more than 10 seconds. (Designed for Evva cylinders, but has been know to work on others)
-
Safekey
-
- Posts: 49
- Joined: 17 Apr 2004 8:47
- Location: United Kingdom
by CaptHook » 8 May 2004 18:16
One trick Ive found, is to start in the middle, say #3 on a 5 pin plug. Work to the end then push the follower on though to expose the 2 empty chambers it was covering up before. This avoids having to reach inside more than halfway makes it easier to see and do.
Chuck
Did you hear something click? 
-

CaptHook
-
- Posts: 705
- Joined: 4 Apr 2004 19:26
- Location: Portland, OR
by eulachon » 9 May 2004 0:47
When I have to mess with top pins I use long nosed, bent needlenose pliers.
Drop the spring in with something little and agile, a half diamond pick's what I use, or if you have a good touch with the pliers you can use them, just don't crush your springs. Then the pliers are great to grip the pin and stuff it down into the chamber, then you can push your plug follower up to it to seal it in. I go from back to front then push the follower out the back by sliding in the plug.
-
eulachon
-
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 18 Dec 2003 20:44
- Location: BC, Canada
by Varjeal » 11 May 2004 8:36
I use a standard plug follower with the a notch and a pair of long, formed end "locksmith" tweezers. I always start at one end of the cylinder and usually hold the plug follower and shell verticial.
I then use the tweezers to drop in the spring, then the driver or top pin. I'll then use a pick to depress the pair into the chamber, and slide the follower over top that pin stack to the edge of the next one, and repeat the process. The longer tweezers will make your life much simpler.
*insert witty comment here*
-
Varjeal
- Moderator Emeritus
-
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: 3 Oct 2003 15:05
- Location: Western Canada
by Romstar » 11 May 2004 16:04
I'm with Varjeal on this one.
The only exception is that I use a set of reverse tweezers. You have to squeeze them to let go. They are filed into the same shape as Varjeal's with the semi-circle on each prong for holding the springs or pins.
Make sure that the prongs are long and thin so that you can reach easily into the shell of the lock. A split end plug follower is best, as it allows you to set the spring and driver pin on something, and then push down with either the tweezers or a pick, and then push the follower over the hole to hold them in.
Have fun,
Romstar
-
Romstar
-
- Posts: 2823
- Joined: 18 Apr 2004 3:13
- Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
by WhiteHat » 11 May 2004 16:54
hmmm, this is what I already do... and I have reverse tweezers also. I guess some things are not meant to be easy 
Oh look! it's 2016!
-
WhiteHat
-
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: 28 Jan 2004 21:41
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
-
by Mad Mick » 11 May 2004 17:22
Maybe I have more patience than most of us. When inserting a spring, I just push the coils over the tip of a 1/2 diamond, drop it in the hole, then rest the driver against the back of the plug. Again, using the 1/2 diamond, I push the driver into the hole and push the plug (already loaded with the key pins) in, to hold the driver in place. Repeat for remaining pin stacks.
A 5 pin lock can be done in around a minute or two.
 If it ain't broke.....pull it down and see how it works anyway!
-
Mad Mick
-
- Posts: 2314
- Joined: 8 Jan 2004 19:19
- Location: UK
by HeadHunterCEO » 11 May 2004 21:46
WhiteHat wrote:hmmm, this is what I already do... and I have reverse tweezers also. I guess some things are not meant to be easy 
it gets real easy with practice
do a couple hundred and you can load up the core in a moment
Doorologist
-
HeadHunterCEO
-
- Posts: 1262
- Joined: 7 Apr 2004 21:10
- Location: NY,NY
by codescott » 16 May 2004 3:50
WhiteHat wrote:Hi there,
How do locksmiths change driver pins or damaged springs in a normal pin tumbler? I find that I have to put the pin in the casing, push it down with a pick or something, then slide a follower over the pin. - I can swap the bottom pins arround in a few seconds, but the top pins (not that you have to do it often) take about 30 seconds for each pin.
any help?
WhiteHat
Depend on what type of lock you are talking about is it padlock or door knob or what?
-
codescott
-
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 18 Feb 2004 2:19
by Luke » 16 May 2004 4:48
Well as a locksmith  to replace drivers i use pin tweasers with the follower pushing up against the pin. I slip in in a bit, the follower holds it there then i push it in all the way.
"I took the path less travelled by and that made all the difference"
-
Luke
-
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: 12 Jul 2003 6:27
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
-
by Romstar » 16 May 2004 6:55
Well as a locksmith
Okay Luke. Don't let it give you a big head.
Seriously, I think you're well on your way, but lets not put the cart before the horse shall we?
Here's to your new business. May you grow, learn and prosper.
Romstar
-
Romstar
-
- Posts: 2823
- Joined: 18 Apr 2004 3:13
- Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Return to Got Questions? - Ask Beginner Hobby Lockpicking Questions Here
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests
|