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What am I doing wrong?

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Re: What am I doing wrong?

Postby DrKickflip13 » 13 Feb 2007 18:46

squelchtone wrote:
DrKickflip13 wrote:
Image



Bend the finger you are putting on the wrench handle and instead of pressing so high up on the wrench handle, bend your finger so it lands 1/3 to half way up the handle. You're probably applying too much tension since the leverage is greater with distance.

Another good method that works for me, is to pulse the wrench on and off, sort of like tapping morse code really quickly on the handle where your finger presses the wrench.

congrats on opening that lock, we've all been at the point with a No.3

Squelchtone

TOOOL Boston

ps. another thing I just noticed.. the wrench should bend 90 degrees right after it comes out of the keyway, your wrench seems to come out an inch before the bend. This will alter the evenness of the torque you are putting on the keyway/plug Think of a funny car starting from a dead stop. the torque in the engine make the car lift the left side off the ground because of uneven distribution. You'll always want your tension wrench to rotate the core on the most balanced central axis.


Thanks a lot, I'll try the new method now and tell you how it works =)
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Postby linty » 13 Feb 2007 19:38

just wanted to point out a common misconception here. hearing pins click when you release tension doesn't mean they were correctly set, they would make the exact same sound if they were bound above the shear line as well.
Image
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Postby NickBristol » 13 Feb 2007 19:58

Another misconception is needing to lift the pins too much. The range of movement is generally way smaller than you first imagine. Once you start taking apart locks and seeing the true size of the pins you get a feel for the small movement you need to make with your pick. I found I was always lifting the pins a lot too high because I was being too zealous but success rate improved as I became more precise by being gentler. I'm still pretty rubbish but getting there at least!

Search around the forum and see if there are any pics of pins being set correctly in those transparent training locks - that might demonstrate how easy it is to miss the shear line better than I can describe.
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picking

Postby jzorn1 » 13 Feb 2007 23:23

Welcome to the forum. A lot on locks pick better one way than the other. This is why they make a tool to quickly spin the cylinder the other way. Keep playing while watching tv. You can only get better
John
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Postby DrKickflip13 » 15 Feb 2007 16:18

Thanks for the tip. I made another tension wrench that bends 90 degrees right out of the lock so I should be getting the right amount of tension now. I've tried raking and trying to set each one individually and I'm still getting a very low success rate (maybe 1 in 25). I really don't know what I'm doing wrong...I'm about to just give in and purchase the Kwik Pick.
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Postby Slappy » 15 Feb 2007 16:44

This is pure gold:
viewtopic.php?t=10677

I jumped in feet first and was pretty frustrated as well.
Then I tried this method and I'm seeing a lot better results (or at least rather, I CAN see my results).

I read and studied a LOT before I tried, but it's just not the same as actually doing and feeling it.

I can unlock up to 3 pins so far on my practice lock and I'm going to keep studying that a few more days before dropping a 4th one in.

Seeing your baby steps beats the heck out of not knowing how many were set, or how close you came. starting on a complete lock is kinda all-or-nothing.

Also this way is great because you know for sure what you are dealing with so no curveballs like security pins to ponder just yet (I'm going to get good with 5 regular pins before I try that).

As a fellow beginner, I recomend starting with only 1 pin in a lock and working your way up.
Image
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Postby DrKickflip13 » 15 Feb 2007 16:54

Thanks, I think I'll go to home depot tomorrow and try that. I really have no idea whats going on inside the Masterlock and its getting frustrating making tension wrenches and picks that aren't working (I've made about 5 of each now). I think I'll buy a cheap beginners pick set so I know I'm at least using the right tools and go get a 5 cylinder lock for that tutorial.
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Postby Stash » 15 Feb 2007 18:33

On my Master No. 3 I used to have trouble turning it clockwise while picking and always had to turn counter clockwise. Over time I got used to it and it's no big deal, but that always threw me for a loop when couldn't pick it clockwise and I still don't know why that is...possibly something to do with the plug they have that moves around so much.
~Stash
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Postby Tygart » 15 Feb 2007 21:54

The Masterlock #3 was really easy for me. But I had been working on a differant lock before that. So I had the idea. Once you know how, the Masterlock is a joke..
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tension

Postby raimundo » 16 Feb 2007 12:26

two things may be happening with your tensor, the first one I saw looked as if it were longer than that part of the key that enters the keyway, if you put a long tensor into the lock, it will stick out the back of the cylinder and block the locking dogs from withdrawing, so don't put it in further than the blade of the key. Also, your tensor, (is that coathanger wire? take a hammer and beat the end of a piece of coathanger til its flatter and wider, but not real thin) You might be haveing jammed tensor problems, if you are, you will find that the tensor is not lose in the slot but has become bound by turning pressure setting up a dynamic between the cylinder and the core that is not helping to turn the core. this is why a wider thinner shorter tensor may help.
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Re: tension

Postby DrKickflip13 » 16 Feb 2007 17:36

raimundo wrote:two things may be happening with your tensor, the first one I saw looked as if it were longer than that part of the key that enters the keyway, if you put a long tensor into the lock, it will stick out the back of the cylinder and block the locking dogs from withdrawing, so don't put it in further than the blade of the key. Also, your tensor, (is that coathanger wire? take a hammer and beat the end of a piece of coathanger til its flatter and wider, but not real thin) You might be haveing jammed tensor problems, if you are, you will find that the tensor is not lose in the slot but has become bound by turning pressure setting up a dynamic between the cylinder and the core that is not helping to turn the core. this is why a wider thinner shorter tensor may help.

Thanks a lot, that is probably my problem. Yes, that was a coat hanger wire. I sometimes have trouble getting the tension wrench out of the lock so that is probably exactly what the problem is. *Goes to whack the tension wrench with a hammer*
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