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Schlage cylinder

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Schlage cylinder

Postby NIC » 23 Feb 2007 11:12

I just disassembled my schlage dead bolt.When you look at the cylinder you see the five drilled holes for the pins.If you turn it half way you see four more holes that are not completly drilled. This might sound like a stupid question, but what are those for ?? :?:
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Postby melvin2001 » 23 Feb 2007 11:21

do a search on contractor keying. basically it involves a ball bearing that drops into one of those semi-drilled holes to disable a contractor key.
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Postby NIC » 23 Feb 2007 11:33

Thanks for the info. I found this viewtopic.php?t=18448&highlight=contractor+keying
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Postby NIC » 23 Feb 2007 14:39

I wanted to make a pratice lock out of my Schlage cylinder.I also wanted to have easy access without taking the core out each time i would need to change the pins.So i tried to take off the little piece of metal on top of the cylinder.No luck, i thought it would slide off but it just broke off.Now i'm looking for some sort of screw to hold down the spring ? Maybe those little screws that old mortise locks in commercial doors ?

thanks
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Postby freakparade3 » 23 Feb 2007 15:39

NIC wrote:I wanted to make a pratice lock out of my Schlage cylinder.I also wanted to have easy access without taking the core out each time i would need to change the pins.So i tried to take off the little piece of metal on top of the cylinder.No luck, i thought it would slide off but it just broke off.Now i'm looking for some sort of screw to hold down the spring ? Maybe those little screws that old mortise locks in commercial doors ?

thanks


I broke a lock the same way once. I used electrical tape to hold the pins in, worked ok.
Image
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Postby NIC » 23 Feb 2007 16:39

Ya i could try that !I tried a rubber band , didn't work so good.I wanted to use some screws if ever i actually want to use the lock !!
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Postby UWSDWF » 23 Feb 2007 16:41

if you have a tap and dye set then you could thread the pinstacks and use grub screws
Image
DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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Postby SmokieD » 23 Feb 2007 23:30

freakparade3 wrote:
NIC wrote:I wanted to make a pratice lock out of my Schlage cylinder.I also wanted to have easy access without taking the core out each time i would need to change the pins.So i tried to take off the little piece of metal on top of the cylinder.No luck, i thought it would slide off but it just broke off.Now i'm looking for some sort of screw to hold down the spring ? Maybe those little screws that old mortise locks in commercial doors ?

thanks


I broke a lock the same way once. I used electrical tape to hold the pins in, worked ok.


Thats what i use.
I just tape of the original metal strip along the holes, so you dont get the sticky tape on the springs, and it works like a charm. Use a wirer brush to clean up the steal lock when you remove the springs and pins to repinn it every once in a while.

Just dont use duct tape.
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Postby melvin2001 » 24 Feb 2007 1:30

take a small piece of wiper blade insert, and cover the pin stacks, then mix up some JB weld and wait a few minutes for it to get a bit tacky and cover the piece of metal with it. wait 16+ hours for it to set up completely then sand till its smooth. you wont be able to remove it ever again, but that shouldn't matter because it really never needs to be removed anyway. it also is less likely to get gummy crap in the lock and mess up the springs.
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Postby 2octops » 24 Feb 2007 1:56

Don't use set/grub screws in the bible. It will push the spring farther into the chamber causing the pins not to be able to go far enough up when using deep cuts in those positions.

I've seen plenty with tape over them in the field and they work fine. It's not my choice of repair, but it does seem to hold.
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Postby SmokieD » 24 Feb 2007 5:01

melvin2001 wrote:take a small piece of wiper blade insert, and cover the pin stacks, then mix up some JB weld and wait a few minutes for it to get a bit tacky and cover the piece of metal with it. wait 16+ hours for it to set up completely then sand till its smooth. you wont be able to remove it ever again, but that shouldn't matter because it really never needs to be removed anyway. it also is less likely to get gummy crap in the lock and mess up the springs.


Im sure this works, but if you want to repin it, or remove some pins like I do, then you usually dont want to wait around for it to harden. That can be a hassle

The wiper insert is an idea I like. I might steal it, and add it onto the electrical tape over the pin stack.
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Postby NIC » 24 Feb 2007 13:27

2octops wrote:Don't use set/grub screws in the bible. It will push the spring farther into the chamber causing the pins not to be able to go far enough up when using deep cuts in those positions.

I've seen plenty with tape over them in the field and they work fine. It's not my choice of repair, but it does seem to hold.


What are grub screws ? Are those the little screws that hold the mortise cylinder ?And like you said,will the screws really effect the springs and my picking ?
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