The Tension is getting to me!

[gratefuldeadbolt]

Well at first I was going to post this as a helpful "tip" to fellow lockpickers, now after careful consideration I pose it more as a topic for furthur research.

I cannot offer this as a tip just yet because with any information recieved from a SINGLE source, the information must be relayed as subjective, until confirmed by other sources.

The "tip" I am refering to has to do with "IN and OUT" TENSION

It has been mentioned MANY times in these forums that TENSION is an important key to picking a lock, which is TRUE. Now it is assumed that we are talking about "SIDE TO SIDE" tension in the direction whichs UNLOCKS the lock (Or in the LOCK direction if you are lucky enough to own a PLUG SPINNER)

Lately I have noticed that varying the IN-OUT tension on the plug along with the SIDE TO SIDE tension has greatly improved my ability to pick these locks.

My problem is in the perception of this IN and OUT tension. Is it in this change in tension direction that is improving my ability to pick the locks or is it the "CHANGE IN MENTAL FOCUS" that is having an effect on the SIDE TO SIDE tension thereby opening the lock - see other posts with regards to a change in focus - ie watching tv. etc

Any input is appreciated. -I have noticed more on the cheaper locks that allow more play in plug tolerances.

I am now testing the theory when possible, and I am requesting a second opinion on whether or not adjusting the "IN and OUT" tension on the plug has any effect on picking success.

GDB - Gratefuldeadbolt

[lockdr]

What you're saying is it worked for you and we should try it and see if it really works or is just a fluke? Is that what you're trying to say? I'll try it and see.

[Eyes_Only]

What in the world is "IN AND OUT" tension?

[nekret]

Maybe when pushing on the face/back of the plug while picking?

[jedidove]

Yea ^^^ what he said. It makes sense though. Pin stacks are circular so they could theoretically bind in all directions. I don't see why it would make it easier to pick though.

The pins will still bind in one spot and provided you still apply normal tension (in order to catch pins on shear line and open the lock) the spot in the stack where binding occurs will only be offset by a little. I don't think locks normally have enough "in/out" play to create a lip to catch pins and maybe not even enough to bind pins. I could easily be wrong though.

[raimundo]

when you turn the plug, you create a step that the pins can hang up on, every cylinder has tolerances, and the cheaper ones have somewhat greater tolerances, and are made more for failure proof operation than for security, this can mean that the plug is married to the cylinder by a snap ring that allows the plug to move slightly in and out. this movement creates a step that pins can hang up on to the front or to the bakc of the pin drilling. If you are picking with normal tension, you may have some false set or binding pins, if the plug is pushed or pulled, these will probably drop. Since the anti shim flange is on the front of the plug, this is the index for the holes in the plug to align, and pushing will not probably affect this much, its designed to turn with a key pushing in on it. but as you try to pull out with a tensor that has a tightening function (like a twist along the blade of the tensor so that it wedges into the bottom of the keyway with the force of wedgeing being on the opposite sides of the keyway in the plug. At the far end of many cylinders, you have a screwdown cap that is fixed in place by a check pin that comes out of the plug, these are usually screwed down finger tight, at which point the lock turns stiff from the tight screw, then you back off til the plug turns freely and let the check pin set the cap screw on the back of the plug. this means that you have a certain looseness of the plug but only in the pull out dimension, and if its too loose in this dimension, you will have problems removing the key until you learn to push in on the plug as you withdraw the key, to check this, just get a screw cap plug and unscrew it a few clicks of the check pin, you will notice it works tricky at some looseness, and the more loose, the closer to complete failure to function.
Therefore, what the original poster said will work on some padlocks where the pin holding in the plug has some play and will work on a lot more locks only in the pull out on the tensor method, as push in is just not going past that antishimflange on the front of the plug. but pulling out has the possibility of setting pins on a different step.

[gratefuldeadbolt]

Well said RAIMUNDO.

Thanks for the detailed description, I couldn't have said it better.

and yes I stand corrected, when I said IN and OUT tension I actually was referring to the additional pin binding by pulling the plug slightly outwards while picking. This method has helped me on occasion to pick a lock where SIDE tension alone has proved difficult.

I recommend to others to experiment with this technique.

GDB - GratefulDeadBolt

[Eyes_Only]

I suppose this In and Out tension would have to be slight otherwise you can end up yanking the wrench out of the keyway?

[raimundo]

some tension wrenches are bent or twisted in a way that is intended to jam them tight against the sides of the keyway, (not the wall of the cylinder at the bottom of the keyway) and this type of tensor is better if you use the pull out method. this method is usefull on locks that are built a little bit loose.

[Eyes_Only]

Ah. Well I prefer to place my tension wrench at the top of the keyway to allow maximum room for my picks.