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Cheap Security!?

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Cheap Security!?

Postby bumpit » 4 Mar 2007 21:11

My parents are buying a new house during the summer and I will be the one in charge of security. It is a low crime neighborhood but if I do something I go all out. I have worked out the other things I need with Zeke79 such as laminated windows and DJ armour(www.djarmour.com). My problem is cost. I have little money because I am a student but I plan on making the most out of it. In the end I plan on getting a Abloy Protec on the main front door. All the other exterior doors will have Master M3 deadbolts with the lockable thumb turn so the key(or pick) wont work from the outside. The only lock that will open with a key will be the Abloy Protec possibly with the Geminy Shield if my parents agree. I will then have a house very resistant to pick attacks and it will hold its own against forced entry techniques unless someone uses a 16 pound sledge hammer on my front door :P. My temporary solution however since I can not afford the M3 deadbolts is to take all of the cylinders out of the existing exterior door deadbolts except for front door which will have the Protec and to weld them solid. This will create a solid metal cylinder. I will then machine down each cylinder the front and buff it to make it look good. These locks will then be inside locking deadbolts and be unpick-able. The only way to open the door if it is locked will be from the inside. I was wondering if you think this is a good temporary solution or if it is unsafe. I don't see why this could not be used for a couple months while I make some money. I would really enjoy your opinions. Thanks.

Bumpit,
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Postby maxxed » 4 Mar 2007 21:44

A practical solution would be to disconnect the tail piece from the cylinder so that the key will not engage it. The tail piece can still be inserted into the thumb turn and operate from the inside. Use a standard deadbolt, very little work
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Postby zeke79 » 4 Mar 2007 21:53

Personally I would forget the gemini shield and put that $300 toward another deadbolt or two, but that is just me. For what you are spending on the shield you could buy 2 medeco m3 single cylinder deadbolts and have change left over.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Postby Eyes_Only » 4 Mar 2007 22:00

I would also invest in this kit since most burglaries are committed by breaking things, http://www.thenationallocksmith.com/public.asp?2. If the culprit cant pick the lock but can kick down the door, then he'll kick down the door.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Postby zeke79 » 4 Mar 2007 22:13

Eyes only, look into djarmor.com . A step above the standar kits out there in my opinion.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Postby bumpit » 5 Mar 2007 1:41

I would like to thank Zeke for helping me so much during the planning process. Eyes_Only dj armour is exactly what you explained. The tail piece idea sounds pretty good. Would you mind explaning it in a little more detail?
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Postby bumpit » 5 Mar 2007 4:13

Also Zeke I plan on getting the Sheild after the M3's have been installed. I might not even do it it is too much of a hassle.My plan in the end is to have 2 entry doors from the outside. So 2 protec's the rest M3. If anyone has any other ideas on better security for my house that I missed pleese share. I will not be getting an alarm though so thats off the list. I don't like alarms 8)
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Postby mercurial » 5 Mar 2007 5:00

If you have sought advice, and talked this through with Zeke79, there is very little I am likely to be able to add of value.

I know you said you don't want to delve into having an alarm, and I can understand why.

You make no mention of CCTV(or other cameras linked to hidden, or even better off-site recorders). Have you thought about this?

Also, quite an obvious suggestion - thieves/intruders HATE attention being drawn to them - just a few motion detectors outside, that trigger bright external lighting is often an effective deterrent.

These motion detectors can also be configured so that they also trigger CCTV/video to start recording, only once movement is detected.

As you seem to know, from the steps you are already taking, a layered approach to security is what matters - there is no point having an Abloy Protec on your door, if the door, frame or hinges are weak.

You mentioned good locks, good door hardware and properly installed laminated windows and they are all great elements of the overall security plan.

Most individual parts of a security plan have their own purpose, and by integrating well planned layering of security devices makes for a secure premesis.

A dog, if your family's lifestyle & new house permits could also be a very useful 'layer' of protection.

I look forward to other interesting suggestions that in this thread!

...Mark
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Postby maxxed » 5 Mar 2007 9:58

[quote="bumpit" The tail piece idea sounds pretty good. Would you mind explaning it in a little more detail?[/quote]





the tail piece is the flat bar that connects to the lock cylinder goes through the latch and into the thumb turn. If you unscrew the retaining cap on the cylinder and reassemble without the tail piece connected then the lock cylinder can be bumped/picked and turned but it will not retract the latch. To install on the door you pass the tail piece through the latch from the exterior and into the thumb turn. Then install the exterior lock body to the door .

If the lock has a screw cap retainer you can also tighten it so tight that the plug will not turn and leave the tail piece connected to the cylinder.

Alarm system even if you don't believe in them today you may tomorrow so if the house is under construction wire for one. You should also consider that the house will be sold some day and the wiring can add value to the purchaser. A second point to consider is that insurance may some day require a system to be installed so that you can have insurance ( the dynamics of your neighborhood can change) I know wireless systems are the norm these days ( I am an alarm/CCTV installer) but wired systems are more reliable and require less maintenance
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Re: Cheap Security!?

Postby fsdhy » 5 Mar 2007 11:25

bumpit wrote:I would really enjoy your opinions. Thanks.

Bumpit,


Unless you're a drug dealer or a spy, those locks are a little over the top. Hey if you've got the money, go for it. But if you have no specific threat in mind, and are simply looking for general burglary protection, you should invest more money in combatting forced/destructive entry than on abloys and m3's. What I mean is, are m3's really necessary? Why not save some cash and go with something just as strong (and bump proof) but less pick resistant? Older medeco, non-protec abloy, something cheap with a sidebar... Etc. In the real world, not many burglars will stand infront of your FRONT DOOR and try to pick your lock...

And you can save ALL of that money if you simply invested some time and took the Canadian Firearm Safety Course instead... :D
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Postby UWSDWF » 5 Mar 2007 11:50

take the extra tag along course and then apply for a restricted PAL while you're at it.

Seriously... you are putting way too much money into this project IMHO

Get some low end abloys, laminate if you are really concerned and an ADT package or something

also them djarmour looks good and all but how do you think it's gonna feel burning that extra time while the FD is trying to get in to put out a fire?
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DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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Postby TOWCH » 5 Mar 2007 14:06

Shotgun in every bedroom and a UL listed tool resistant security safe for valuables. Then retrofit the safe to your hearts content. Craigslist is where it's at for safe's. Ignore the antiques, wait for something that looks like a tank.

The fire problem could be solved by getting a knox box.

I remember this being good:
http://www.econ.upenn.edu/Centers/CARES ... /97-07.pdf

If you're out in the middle of nowhere, get a couple mean looking dogs. Leaving some spent shotgun shells littered around the yard would probably work in your favor. :twisted:
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Postby fsdhy » 5 Mar 2007 14:38

TOWCH wrote:Shotgun in every bedroom and a UL listed tool resistant security safe for valuables. Then retrofit the safe to your hearts content. Craigslist is where it's at for safe's. Ignore the antiques, wait for something that looks like a tank.

The fire problem could be solved by getting a knox box.

I remember this being good:
http://www.econ.upenn.edu/Centers/CARES ... /97-07.pdf

If you're out in the middle of nowhere, get a couple mean looking dogs. Leaving some spent shotgun shells littered around the yard would probably work in your favor. :twisted:


Shotgun in every bedroom? Thats as ridiculous as M3s and Protecs on every door, if not moreso.

Like UWSDWF said, an RPAL goes a long way. Unless you've just got bird shot in those shotguns, you are risking making your own family/pets collateral damage. A .22 for the wife and a 9mm or .45 for yourself is more than enough. Plus, good luck LEGALLY storing a shotgun & ammunition in a fashion that makes it QUICKLY acessible to make it a viable option for self defense.

But I do agree, a good safe goes a long way. Even if they do get in, the only thing they will leave with is a .45 inch hole in their midsection.
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Postby UWSDWF » 5 Mar 2007 15:15

I'm inclined the Kimberly 1911 .45 ACP.... unless of course you have the money and resources to put out for a revolver that fires a .45Gov.

you compare the bullets (without casing)

.45Gov (45-70) ..... .45ACP ..... 9mm
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Postby zeke79 » 5 Mar 2007 15:22

I believe I also stated that if budget was an issue to secure the place against "brute force" attacks and use some decent grade 2 hardware all the way around. Then add the high security locks later if they are still wanted. I believe bumpit just wants to have high security locks.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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