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by NIC » 7 Mar 2007 12:14
What product would be better for gluing feeler gauges, and brass to fix one of my cylinders ? JB WELD OR EPOXY ?
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by Shrub » 7 Mar 2007 13:55
We need to know more about the repair you need to do first,
Out of those two (neither are suitable) the epoxy is the one that would give the better results but again it depends on what repair it is,m
JB weld is not a glue its a structual material, if your building somthign up then maybe use that,
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by NIC » 7 Mar 2007 15:32
I wanted to glue feeler gauges together,for making picks !?
And i wanted to glue back the lid of the bible for my cylinder !
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by unjust » 7 Mar 2007 17:20
hmm interesting.
laminating steel is rarely a good idea especially with such a small contact area that a physical weld is going to be a better bet.
epoxy will not hold up to the heat generated by grinding, and i'm not certain that jbweld will hold up to the lateral shear from grinding either.
for the attachment, hot glue may be the most direct method, as you dont' need much holding power, or for mroe irreversible, constrction adhesive (liquid nails) or carpenters glue may well do fine.
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by melvin2001 » 7 Mar 2007 18:33
JB weld is great if the final product is going to be sanded down or drilled through. its also quite solid and heat resistant. JB weld IS NOT meant to attach one thing to another.
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by Gordon Airporte » 7 Mar 2007 22:04
Feeler gauges are lightly oiled to the fingers will seperate. Make sure you find something to get that off completely before you try to stick them together.
Re. the thread title: JB Weld for metal.
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by lunchb0x » 8 Mar 2007 4:35
you can get a type of rivert, the type used on airplane's where you wouls drill a hole through the tow materials, stick the rivert through and hit the other end with a hammer to spread the head of the rivert out and this will hold it together, so it would be kind of like how propper picks are held together.
Is that the type of thing your after?
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by freakparade3 » 8 Mar 2007 11:07
My toolbox will NEVER be without JB Weld. Years ago I had a Ford Ranger truck that the oil pan gasket blew out the front of the oil pan. I was told at the dealership the only way to fix it is to pull the engine to make the repair. A couple thousand dollars. I took it home, cut off the protruding gasket, and filled the gap with JB weld. I had the truck for 5 more years and it never leaked another drop of oil.
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by NIC » 8 Mar 2007 11:34
lunchb0x wrote:you can get a type of rivert, the type used on airplane's where you wouls drill a hole through the tow materials, stick the rivert through and hit the other end with a hammer to spread the head of the rivert out and this will hold it together, so it would be kind of like how propper picks are held together. Is that the type of thing your after?
You mean like POP Rivet ?
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by lunchb0x » 8 Mar 2007 17:36
kind of but you dont use a rivert gun, the rivert is soft enough so when you hit it you squash it toghter, I will see if i can find a propper name for you, also spot welds would work
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by lunchb0x » 9 Mar 2007 4:02
i think there copper riverts, you can get them with adome head and the side you need to squash you put a metal plate over it with a dome shape on it so when you hit the rivert it forms the same shape as the other side.
i have no idea where you might get them frrom though
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by mh » 9 Mar 2007 18:05
J-B Weld is a metal-filled epoxy.
That means the epoxy has lots of very small grains of metal in it - and therefore, when set, has similar properties like metal.
It's also quite temperature resistant.
In terms of adhesion properties, it should be quite similar to other epoxy adhesives, although of course their recipes vary
Cheers,
mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
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