Proposed Lifter Pick System

[Exodus5000]

I’ve come up with a modified way to pick a lock that is largely based on the SAK system in the sense that you do the following:

1.) Using a probe determine the pin spacing and pin stack heights in relation to each other.
2.) Create a profile pick that will open the lock.

The difference with my modified method is that I go about determining the pin stack heights and spacing differently. Allow me to explain:

1.) Determining pin spacing. If you know what lock you’re working with and have a spacing chart then you can skip this step as you already have that information. This is of course the best way to get this information. If not, you can use a probe (like a hook pick) to feel where the first pin is and then mark the pick with a pencil right where the shaft of the pick meets the keyway. Then put your pick under the second pin and mark the pick with a pencil where it meets the keyway again. Take your hook pick out and measure the distance between the two pencil marks - this should be the pin spacing. Write this number down.

2.) Determining pin stack heights in relation to each other. Using a hook pick for a probe, place the hook pick under the first pin stack and while keeping your pick parallel to the floor lift it until it stops. This should be when the spring is fully compressed and the pin stack is at the top of the plug. With your other hand hold a ruler next to your pick, lining up the bottom of the ruler with something that will stay constant every time you take a measurement, perhaps the bottom of the keyway. Write down the height of the first pin stack when full compressed by your hook pick. Repeat this process for every pin stack. If you are careful with your measurements you should have a set of height measurements for every pin stack in the lock. In this way you can determine that the shear line for pin stack 1 is x amount higher/lower than pin stack 2. That is to say, you will determine the distances of the shear lines in relation to every other pin stack!

3.) Graphing your numbers. Make a grid on a blank sheet of paper. The spacing on the vertical lines of the graph should be the spacing for the lock that you determined in step 1. The spacing on the horizontal lines of the graph should be the smallest increment that you were able to measure the pin height differences by (whether that is in 32s of an inch or mms, or whatever.) Chart your measurements in order of pin stacks. Connect the dots on the chart you just made. What you have just now created is the template for a lifter pick. In theory, when this pick is inserted into a lock correctly it should automatically line up the space between the key and driver pins for every pin stack perfectly flush. All you need to do is apply a light tension and slowly lift the pick in the lock until the pin stacks are flush at the shear line. Assuming there is some error in construction or original measurements some jiggling or raking may be required to get the pins to set right.

Notes: This system like I said is modified from the SAK system, which is how the King and Queen picks were originally created. This means that your pick should end up looking similar in general characteristics to a King or Queen pick!

Problems:
1.) As you’re probing the heights of pin stacks in the back of the lock you may be obstructed by low setting pins towards the front. In these situations it may be beneficial to use a deeper hook as a probe.
2.) The pick you create is only really good for the one lock you measured. This makes it inefficient. However, its use is great for making a tool that will reliably open that one lock that absolutely has to be opened.
3.) Recording accurate measurements can be hard. Practice up and make sure you have a device that can take precise measurements – there is not a lot of difference in distances between pin stacks!
4.) This system can be defeated by varying springs or driver pin heights.

Alright boys and girls, let me have it. What do you think?

[Shrub]

Theres a lot of locks that this wouldnt work on and others that could be damaged due to over compressing the spring, so i advise its not a begineers technique,

You may be able to modify an electronic caliper to measure your pin stacks,

[lunchb0x]

also wont be that good if the person who keyed it used large master pins as top pins, or if youu dont know what size the top pins are as these can vary, I know what some people do to get the pin size is by liiking in the key way and looking for the top of the pin and decoding it by sight, you can get a tool like the doctor uses to look in your ear, but this has a pick on the end of it so you can look through it and see the pins very clearly, and coloured pins make it easier

[Shrub]

Well this of course is the fall down of this system,

It will only work in original locks, anything thats been repinned will likely give false readings if any useable ones at all,

As regards differant iun lengths from factory, that can be got around as long as you know the lock uses them and what they are,

A known standard is always far easier to beat than a random one,

[maxxed]

When rekeying locks that are in high traffic area, if there is a long bottom pin I will usually remove the top pin and install a shorter one . Even doing this would not necessarily make the idea unworkable, the king/queen type picks get the pins near the shear line and by rocking the pick and varying the tension the pins are worked into position thus opening the lock.
BTW a reasonably close key could be made so that all cuts are slightly deeper than required and the lock could be bumped the difference. for what I have for resources making a one shot key is easier than a one shot pick

[Exodus5000]

I agree with shrub that there is a specific scenario that this system is useful for. You guys hit that main flaws in this system pretty dead on.

As for making a bump key that's tailored specific to the lock, I don't see why you just wouldn't use a normal bump key, but I see what you're saying in terms of it being easier to make a key than a pick.

In general this system is time consuming and inefficient, but it is a plausible way to defeat a lock, and I think there are some uses for it.

[lunchb0x]

i thiink it would be more practical to impression the lock, this way you dont have to try guess what size top pins are it it, and you still get a working key at the end

[PickPick]

Of course this won't work on locks with balanced pin stacks or tight keyways but it's a nice method after all.
As for the top pins, you don't need to know their size, you just need the relative heights of the bottom pins. Everything else is taken care of by moving the finished tool around. And since this tool is not a real pick but rather something like a jiggle key you could also try to cut it out of a piece of mica or similar plastic. Just try to shape it more like a key and less like a pick if you try that approach.

[lunchb0x]

As for the top pins, you don't need to know their size, you just need the relative heights of the bottom pins. Everything else is taken care of by moving the finished tool around. .

not quite, to find the height of the bottom pin you need to know what the top pin is, and also how big the spring is when it is compressed, otherwise you wont know what mesurement to take of the didtance from the pin on the bottom of the key way to being lifted till you cant lift it anymore

[PickPick]

No. You need the length of the bottom pin/spring to find out the absolute height of the top pin, to find out the depth of the cut. That's what you need when you want to make a key because you can't move the key up and down in the keyway.
However if you're working with a jiggler or an SAK pick, you only need to know the heights of the pins relative to each other since you can move it up and down, at least if the keyway allows it.

[WDPaladin]

Well, beyond the limitations, try using a SIN or COS in this figure; as far as this may be from complete, it's still intuitive.