New house - Abloy or Medeco ?

[pierre2]

I guess Abloy it will be. Btw, where I'm currently living, (hi-rise condo) I have an Abloy. It was purchased in 1994 and needed zero maintenance except using WD-40 once over the last 13 years. It is a DiskLock Pro model.

I was wondering if there was a "middle" worth buying between the bottom like LSDA, Weiser, etc and the top like Abloy and Medeco? But I don't mind paying for 3 Abloy locks. Eventually, I intend to get the whole double doors/frame changed. Something like an Abloy needs a steel door frame and a steel door or something equivalent in order to get the maximum benefits from the lock.

I already have motion activated lights over all terrace/patio doors. The whole back of the house is covered. It better be, cause I'm backing on a forest, no rear neighbour and I'm at the street corner (pie shape lot). Animals are out of question due to allergies. I might get CCTV cameras. Haven't decided yet. The problem is too much security is kind of advertising you have something worth stealing.

Btw, you have a great site here. I only discovered it few days ago. The knowledge you offer is quite something. I just hope not too many will do something stupid with what they can learn in here. Having worked with the cops and seeing people in jail makes you think twice before doing someting stupid. To me, my freedom is just too important to do anything to jeopardizes it.

[zeke79]

A lesser cost alternative I would suggest is bilock.

[Jaakko]

Sorry if I sound like an Abloy marketing manager

A very good example of Abloys durability and virtually zero maintenance is my parents house: There has been the same three locks (garage, front door and back door) with the same key over 23 years now and only once they have been lubricated due to dust.

In here Finland the lock has to be very robust because of those weathers: In summer it is +30...+35 Celsius and in winter it drops to -10...-30 Celsius. And this is in the southern Finland. Nice, huh...

[lunchb0x]

i use bilock every day at work and it is alot easier to work with over KABA and ABLOY, and a little bit cheaper as zeke said

[pierre2]

I did look at bilock as per Zeke's suggestion. They are quite interesting.

In the end, I guess I'll just go with Abloy. It doesn't make much sense right now as I have a door frame made of wood and cheap insulated doors, but in a year or so, I'll get the whole thing removed and install steel reinforced doors with a steel frame. Then the Abloy will make sense.

Nothing gives me more pleasure than to make the life of a thief as hard as possible. To give you an idea: In my previous car, I had removed the front plate of the CD player/radio. A very dumb thief broke into my car, pulled out the CD player/radio and then realizes that he won't be able to sell it cause the front plate is missing. So he left it there in the car. I agree that the CD player looked a bit less good without the wood imitation plate, but it worked just fine.

[katahdin]

You may also want to consider BEST locks which are great locks for a variety of reasons. First, since the locks have two shear points, they are difficult to pick or bump. Secondly, SFIC offer a great deal of flexibility. If you are going to be out of town, you can simply swap cores and give a key to your neighbor. When you return, you can put the old core back in which in. Thus, even if your neighbor were to make a copy of your key while you were away, he would no longer have access to your house. This provides you with a great deal of control over who has access to your home and when they have access.

[lunchb0x]

SFIC offer a great deal of flexibility. If you are going to be out of town, you can simply swap cores and give a key to your neighbor. When you return, you can put the old core back in which in. Thus, even if your neighbor were to make a copy of your key while you were away, he would no longer have access to your house. This provides you with a great deal of control over who has access to your home and when they have access.

this is what i like about Bi-lock quick change core, only takes seconds to change the lock over, and as long as you have the stuff to rekey it, it would only take a minute to change the lock over, but unless you are a locksmith with the Bi-lock gear this wouldnt be practical because you will have to pay someone else to re key it and cut the keys

[globallockytoo]

You may also want to consider BEST locks which are great locks for a variety of reasons. First, since the locks have two shear points, they are difficult to pick or bump. Secondly, SFIC offer a great deal of flexibility. If you are going to be out of town, you can simply swap cores and give a key to your neighbor. When you return, you can put the old core back in which in. Thus, even if your neighbor were to make a copy of your key while you were away, he would no longer have access to your house. This provides you with a great deal of control over who has access to your home and when they have access.

Since when do cylinders with multiple shearlines make them more difficult to bump?.....the revers is the effect. There are only two (2) guaranteed bump proof products on the US market, Abloy and Bilock. In Australia, Binary Plus is bump proof too.

[lunchb0x]

i havent seen a BEST lock but from what i gather you have one shear line to turn the lock and the other to remove the cylinder, so if you pick some of the pins to one shear line and another pin to the other shear line would the cylinder not work?

[mercurial]

i havent seen a BEST lock but from what i gather you have one shear line to turn the lock and the other to remove the cylinder, so if you pick some of the pins to one shear line and another pin to the other shear line would the cylinder not work?

Absolutely.

When it comes to masterkeying systems, with conventional pin-tumbler locks, then yes, this will make bumping and also picking easier.

This is not the case when it comes to SFIC(eg BEST) locks - there is one shear line that will operate to unlock the lock. There is also a 'control' shear line, which is quite separate to the unlocking shear line, it is 'higher' in the cylinder(there isn't just a pair of pins in each chamber), and when all pins are set to this shear line, turning the key(or tension wrench), will allow removal of the core, as it is turning the control sleeve.

The extra shear line in these locks does NOT make picking easier - you cannot tell if you are setting a pin to the 'unlock' (ie normal) shear line, or the control shear line - so to pick this lock to either shear line is very difficult, as you cannot tell if a pin stack that is set is set on the control or normal shear line. Unless ALL pin chambers are set to either the control or operating shear line, the lock will not turn. Being unable to tell which shearline you have set a pin-stack to turns this into a very hit-and-miss process. It is still certainly possible, however.

There are (as described in detail elsewhere onsite) specialized tension tools designed to apply tension only to the control sleeve, making it possible to pick the lock to the control shear line, so you do not have to worry about setting pins on the other(operating) shear line.

Bumping a BEST lock is going to require some lateral thinking - BEST keys are tip-stopped (as opposed to shoulder-stopped), so unless you are willing to risk severe damage to the lock(from the tip of the key slamming into the rear of the cylinder), you need to make a bumpkey that doesn't rely on the tip-stopping. The hot-melt glue key-shoulder method is one good approach, that may be applicable to all tip-stopped keys.

...Mark