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Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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by mart242 » 15 Mar 2007 9:23
I'll soon be moving into a new house that comes with crappy lock from the builder  and who knows who has the key.
I was originally planning on buying really good locks but that would be totally useless now that I've see how "secure" the double entry door is. I will definitely be putting a better lock, double barrel but unless I secure the door, I'm pretty sure that anyone can kick it and get in the house easily. The rest of the house isn't too bad. Lots of windows but they are all casement, I'll be putting bars in the 2 basement windows and a little bar so the patio door doesn't open unless that bar is lifted. No alarm system, too easy to cut the phone cord outside the house (you'd think that they'd make the connection underground but nooo.. that would be too nice). Now, back to the door:
The door that's usually immobile has a top and bottom pin that might be 1 - 1.5" long that enter the door jamb at the top and bottom (I think that it's the name). There's only a little metal plate holding it there:
Top pin:
Top door jamb (less than 1" deep)
The immobile door, could I put a stike box in there or it would be useless?
So, any thoughts about securing that door and maybe putting a better lock? I'm in Ottawa, Canada by the way.
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mart242
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by butterboy » 15 Mar 2007 9:57
If your worried about the kick in factor get a solid core door. About the alarm I read a post the other day about a guy who's friend has the alarm set up through a cellular line, no phone line to cut.
good luck , with your new home.
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butterboy
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by mart242 » 15 Mar 2007 10:01
butterboy wrote:If your worried about the kick in factor get a solid core door. About the alarm I read a post the other day about a guy who's friend has the alarm set up through a cellular line, no phone line to cut.
good luck , with your new home.
But even if I put a solid core door, wouldn't the weakest link be the top and bottom pins that will go right through the jamb? I suppose that I could use 3" screws so that they are in the door frame, that would help..
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mart242
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by I Pik U » 15 Mar 2007 14:35
A couple of things tp help beef it up:
1. Cover those flush bolts with plates so that the plates would have to be removed to open that door. The reason for this is; when the doors are locked, if you push against the normal working door you create a gap exposing the flush bolts. The flush bolts can be slid up and down and both doors will open!
2. Get a strike plate that mounts the full length of the frame (or the second door in your case). It's held on with approx. 20 screws. This will distribute the force from a kick in attempt over the full length, which will be stronger than just a small strike with 2 screws. PLS products make these as well as others.
3.Install those flip over locks (Snib locks) at the top of both doors. These are those rectangular things that are screwed into the frames (use 3 inch screws) and flip over to block the door. When used someone with a key will not be able to come in. Use in a locked possition all the time on the second door, and only at night on the main door. This will add strength again, because those flush bolts are pretty flimsy.
4. Install longer screws into the top strike of the flush bolt.
5. Master used to make a bar that's adjustable in length you slip under the door handle and the other end goes on the floor. You tighten it up and pushes the door closed (Similar in idea to putting a chair up against the door under the handle).
Just some ideas.
 Been playing with locks since '68.
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I Pik U
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by mercurial » 16 Mar 2007 7:10
One thing that hasn't been mentioned :
Your hinges are not pictured, so it is hard to know for sure if upgrading them will help, but many builders figure there isn't much difference between cheap hinges and higher quality ones....or assume the customer will never know the difference.
Given you are taking some serious measures to secure the door, the hinges are not something to be neglected. Quality hinges, and the appropriate screws to go with them are important.
...Mark
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mercurial
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by lunchb0x » 16 Mar 2007 7:29
with a good alarm cutting te phone line will trigger an alarm if that is how you want it set up, you can also have tamper switches so if anyone tries to disarm the external siren it will alarm, same with the internal siren, also it would have a back up battery, these usually last 72 hours, so if someone cuts your phone line, it will alarm, cuts your power, it still runs.
depending on what you want to spend your alarm can call your mobile if either of these senarios happen, or if someone breaks in, you can also have it monitered by a company but obviosly these isnt as cheap.
With your alarm you can have reed switches on your doors and windows and glass break detectors, and alot more so if you are serious about your security dont over look this so quickly, look in to it and shop around.
Also if you have double doors something like a Lockwood 355 is perfect, you can fit it in under 20 minutes and it bolts both doors together, so if your flushbolts break on the fixed door, they still wont get in, but also make sure you have some good fixed pin hinges
Lockwood 355
http://www.asgal.com.au/images/deadlock_355.gif
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lunchb0x
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by WOT » 16 Mar 2007 20:14
Be sure you check the obvious loop holes, like big windows. If they can't kick in your door, they'll kick in your big window.
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WOT
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