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Key Duplication by Hand

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Key Duplication by Hand

Postby cheezewiz » 19 Mar 2007 23:58

This might sound like a silly question, but here goes:
So today I got a bunch of brass sc-20 blanks in the mail for a few various schlage locks I have. Just messing around I figured I would make another key for one of the locks.

I clamped the key I have and the blank together, made marks to indicate the depths and spacing, then filed away. In end it took me three tries to get a working key. Are the tolerances on these locks so tight that the slightest cut matters this much? or do I just have a bad eye?

I guess my question is. When making a key by hand does anyone have any tips to get good results? How do you get the pin spacing right on and get the cut depths right?
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Postby Eyes_Only » 20 Mar 2007 1:19

Your cuts can be off by .001 -.002 thousands of an inch and shouldn't cause any problems. I recommend using a pippin file or use both round and triangle files to get the ramps and valleys in the right shape. Thats just as important as getting the cuts to be the right depth.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Postby WOT » 20 Mar 2007 3:41

cheezewiz wrote:This might sound like a silly question, but here goes:
So today I got a bunch of brass sc-20 blanks in the mail for a few various schlage locks I have. Just messing around I figured I would make another key for one of the locks.

I clamped the key I have and the blank together, made marks to indicate the depths and spacing, then filed away. In end it took me three tries to get a working key. Are the tolerances on these locks so tight that the slightest cut matters this much? or do I just have a bad eye?

I guess my question is. When making a key by hand does anyone have any tips to get good results? How do you get the pin spacing right on and get the cut depths right?


The cut tolerance is quite tight on Schlage.

From official Schlage service manual:
+/- 0.001" horizontal, +0.002 to -0.000" vertical

I haven't successfully made one your way. I notch the blank with the spacing from factory specs with a knife, then I decode the original key into code, then cut by code.

You can use a code machine, key copier + depth keys or files.

It's time consuming, but you can make just about any flat standard key with files, data + caliper.
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Postby lunchb0x » 20 Mar 2007 3:51

if i have to hand file a key i get the spacing by removing all the pins, put the blank in the lock and make a scratch mark on the blank at each spacing, having a good impressioning file will make it easier but with brass blanks it is easy to file too much, there are two things I was always told at trade school to remember.
1. the three most important things when cutting a key are spacing, spacing and spacing. if this is out start again
and most important is

SPEED KILLS

if you try and ruch it you will probably make a mistake, take your time
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Postby 2octops » 20 Mar 2007 8:29

Be careful clamping the keys together and filing. You run the risk of running the file across the original key and possibly causing it to stop work.
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Postby zeke79 » 20 Mar 2007 8:38

I have found that with schlage OEM cylinders and pins, keys can be off .005" and still function decent.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Postby freakparade3 » 20 Mar 2007 8:46

2octops wrote:Be careful clamping the keys together and filing. You run the risk of running the file across the original key and possibly causing it to stop work.


If you use a candle and smoke the original key black, you will know easily when you are getting deep enough to file the original. When the smoke is taken off my the file, stop.
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Postby Shrub » 20 Mar 2007 9:28

Measure twice file once and thats all you really need to know,

If you have a caliper you can set it at the right size for that cut and then mark off the cuts at that height,
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withlockinhand

Postby raimundo » 20 Mar 2007 10:28

if you are making a key for a lock that you have in hand, just get close to the original, then finish with a little impressioning, that way your copy is fitted, and its good practice for the newbie who is just starting to understand impressioning.
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Postby cheezewiz » 20 Mar 2007 13:15

Right on guys. Thanks for the tips. Ill give it another go later. Maybe use my caliper this time :)
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Postby WOT » 20 Mar 2007 15:16

I would cut to published cut depths rather than copying the original, so don't amplify the error from wear.

#0 = 0.335" from bottom, then it decreases in 0.015" until #9.

If the original is 0.316, make the one you're making 0.320.
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Postby scorpiac » 20 Mar 2007 18:31

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Postby cheezewiz » 21 Mar 2007 0:36

Thanks, dont know how I missed that one scorpiac.
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