impressioning clamp/handle design?

[87ELC2]

if a regular pair of visegrips is not working for you you not doing it right
if the key is moving in the jaws ther are three things you can do to change that 1 the key blank is not setting in the jaws correctly ,try with moving the key blank to a different position 2 the jaw is not tight enough 3 your bumping to hard there are some thing that ive seen on this web site that are not good ideas ,bad inventions,ect a handle with a screw in it is not going to work, if it so not that well it looks like you can only apply turning pressure , thats not the right way to do it ...you need slight turnig pressure at the same time bumping the pins or waffers... and im not talking about hitting the back of it with a locksmith hammer... you turn the key with a little pressure and move the key up and down ..if you are just using turning pressure your not going to get the marks that you want and will end up breaking many keys javascript:emoticon(':shock:')

You've hit it dead-ln.

I've never seen the need for anything more than a large pair of ordinary vise-grips. In my experience the large ones give you a better grip on the blank, with less hand fatigue from the bind-and-bump motion.

I don't care about marks on the bow because I only use the impressioned blank as a guide to code-cut a proper key for the customer.

[dab]

The very best for impressioning is a standard pair of vise grips with a 3" long 3/16" rod welded at a 2-3 degree angle on the stationary (curved) side of the vise grip. I have found no equal for delicate locks or hard to impression locks. I will see about posting a picture.

[Eyes_Only]

I agree, a regular vise grips work just fine in my experience. But I'm still a bit curious about the special vise grip that has the flat jaws that a lot of locksmith supply companies carry. I plan on buying one anyways in the near future because the couplers ends on the air hoses we just for our impact tools at my shop are getting old and a flat jawed grip would be able to clamp down on the hose to keep the compressed air in the lines quite nicely i think.

[87ELC2]

I agree, a regular vise grips work just fine in my experience. But I'm still a bit curious about the special vise grip that has the flat jaws that a lot of locksmith supply companies carry. I plan on buying one anyways in the near future because the couplers ends on the air hoses we just for our impact tools at my shop are getting old and a flat jawed grip would be able to clamp down on the hose to keep the compressed air in the lines quite nicely i think.

Because of the Vise-Grip design, the modified jaws remain parallel only when set at the thickness of a key bow. However, it still might work for you. There are also specific hose pinching pliers/clamps for what you're trying to do; Snap-On has them, and I think Sears does too.

[ufd538]

Amen brother....don't ever give the impressioned key up as it can have unnoticed stress fractures, etc. I almost always code cut a key afterwards when I can unless I am 100 percent sure the impressioned key is accurate.....often times when I am not sure and try to code cut a key....I should have copied the key I impressioned...although I do not seem to sound over confident. I code cut a key only to alter it more and more to possibly get it to work better than my key.... but ussually doesn't, so I copy my key, I need to gain confidence...as I am really good at impressioning and sight reading, alot of times, I find out a copy of my impressioned key works better than a code cut key of my impressioned key.....

As for my impressioning handle design that I believe I recommended, I am willing to send a free pair to some one of popular choice who can honestly judge them, and I know they will judge them way better than most...btw...someone give me that privelaged access to the automotive forums, as I believe I can answer any automotive question....at least on autos availible in US......and I am willing to answer any auto question a 'moderator' can throw at me.....I want access to the automotive forums as I believe I can answer many questions, and that, by chance, I possibly might learn something new....go, ahead ask me, pin placement, origination methods, problems with particular locks, or motorcycle locks...and I believe I have just enough posts

[machinist]

I was gonna start a new topic but, I decided it would be best to ask here in a living one.


I'm having a lot of trouble seeing pin marks on my blanks I hit them with a fairly fine flat file its just a tiny one.

I started with kwickset and only got TWO marks I could see towards the handle of the key. This is ofcourse after cleaning the top edge. I am really turning and wiggling hard here. I have a nice pair of vice grips I am locking down as tight as my hands will go. The keys are brass plated in cheap chrome or nickel or w/e.

are kwicksets bad candidates for impressioning? what am I doing wrong?

pics tomarrow of evertyhing described

[Shrub]

Are you useing a magnifier? if not it is a must

[87ELC2]

I was gonna start a new topic but, I decided it would be best to ask here in a living one.


I'm having a lot of trouble seeing pin marks on my blanks I hit them with a fairly fine flat file its just a tiny one.

I started with kwickset and only got TWO marks I could see towards the handle of the key. This is ofcourse after cleaning the top edge. I am really turning and wiggling hard here. I have a nice pair of vice grips I am locking down as tight as my hands will go. The keys are brass plated in cheap chrome or nickel or w/e.

are kwicksets bad candidates for impressioning? what am I doing wrong?

pics tomarrow of evertyhing described

I've never trired to impression a Kwikset (so easy to pick, never had the need) but I imagine the blunt factory pins won't leave very clear marks... On the other hand, locks that use sharp-pointed nickel-silver pins generally leave nice marks.

[dab]

kwiksets mark just fine. You want to use "failing light", for example if outside, turn your back on the sun and tilt the key blade so the light hits it from a low angle.

[Wrenchman]

Impressioning Clamp


This is my suggestion!

It is less than 5 USD / 2.50 GBP

My problem now is that the lock is moving in the vice, so I need a bigger and stronger vice, the one I have is a 50mm hobby/toy vice, it is terrible!

I had the metal piece(a tool that belonged to the motorcycle), paid for the holes(4mm),(cuz I did´nt have the tool to do it myself) and the 6(six)(4mm)screws

It is working like a dream!

This one on the other hand cost £52.88 / 105 USD

Long live DIY



Wrenchman

[butterboy]

So I just had to try my idea so I went into the shop looking around found some 3/4 inch steel conduit/pipe, cut it to 7 inches, made a cut in the top so the key would fit and the pipe is the handle, drilled 3 holes on each side in a triangle, just like Wrenchmans tool.
I put in a blank and tightend up the screws, I only need 2 on each side, with the blank in the middle its very secure.
But how secure,we ask?
I put the blank in the vice and started wrenching , till the blank started to bend, so the key gave up befor the tool so im satisfide with it .
I also wraped the handle with some comfotable rubber.
Thanks for all the great ideas, it really helped me able to make my own.

[Raymond]

I carry a 6 inch visegrip all the time. I modified it to impression with by grinding the jaws parallel. I then dulled the cutter in the back of the jaws to the same thickness. Now the front jaws hold the key near the shoulder and the dulled cutter jaws hold the blank at the ring hole. With two points of contact, instead of a large surface, the key no longer slips.