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by UWSDWF » 29 Mar 2007 14:26
it's a clam shell system
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by Eyes_Only » 29 Mar 2007 15:07
It looks a lot messier then the traditional clam shell method. 
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by Wolfe » 29 Mar 2007 19:28
Not a bad site though.It seems to have a mix of basic and intermediate equiptment. If i lived across the pond i would probably use it.
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by cjames73 » 29 Mar 2007 19:58
it does look like a good site. the prices don't seem that bad on most things.
all the components for the key duplication system can be bought from the 'hobby's' catalogue at a fraction of the price. the set from multipick is in individual use syringes which makes it a lot easier to use and creates less waste.
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by Jaakko » 30 Mar 2007 5:01
I'm curious about one step in the process of duplication, if I'm correctly understanded the process. When you mix that plastic (whatever it is?) to make a mold and put your original key in and let it harden, then how you get that original key out of the mold without breaking the mold? Do you cut it with what to get it in half and to get the original out?
And if that molding material is really some sort of plastic, then I would presume that the metal is one of those fancy "melts below 100 degrees of Celsius" metal alloys
If this can be discussed in the open part of the forum, I'd appreciate your input 
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by PickPick » 30 Mar 2007 5:12
The mold material is quickhardening silicone, the casting material is woods metal I think. After you've mixed the silicone with the hardener you take the key and hang it inside a small plastic beaker with the silicone for a couple of minutes. Then you cut the silicone mould open at the side just enough to remove the key and do your casting.
Worked quite nicely when I visited Multipick a couple of years ago. The big advantage of this kit compared to the clam shells is that you can copy stuff like abloy, keso or evva3ks which is difficult or impossible using the clam shell kit AFAIK.
It's not the tools that open the lock. It's me.
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by Jaakko » 30 Mar 2007 5:42
I think it is not Wood's metal because of its toxic ingredients lead and cadmium, but Field's metal would be good: Melts at 62 degrees of Celsius and is non-toxic
Thank you for the silicon info, I think I will start to investigate all the options with the method 
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by sunfm » 30 Mar 2007 14:11
could a person use JB weld ?
2 part epoxy then stuff it in or have a mold cut totaly in half and squeeze alot in then close the mold ?
just a thought
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by PickPick » 30 Mar 2007 14:27
I think the epoxy may be to viscous to fill out all the little 3d details, especially when casting high security keys. But I've seen something like i used to copy a normal key. It was some sort of 2-component plastic used by dentists.
What was far more interesting though was the silicone they used, because it came together with the hardener in a double syringe, similar to many epoxies but with a small mixing nozzle in the front. Very convenient.
It's not the tools that open the lock. It's me.
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by Jaakko » 30 Mar 2007 18:01
PickPick, I have duplicated an Abloy Exec key *half* with epoxy. I pressed the key on Blu-Tak and filled the cavity with two component epoxy and let it harden for a 24 hours. It was almost perfect, only one airbubble on surface had "ruined" the "key". This was only to test if a key with highly rich details can be reproduced using epoxy and as I only made a copy that was only half of the key, I didn't have to worry about my own house key getting duplicated my someone else
So, my point is that epoxy is good enough to make an exact copy of the key, but if one wants to make a flawless copy, I suggest that one searches for vacuum source
And on the topic, I found several different brand silicone sealants that can withstand temperatures up to 250 degrees Celsius. And they are nicely red colored
Now I only have to get that Field's metal or Wood's metal somewhere. Any suggestions, please?
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by Shrub » 31 Mar 2007 12:40
I make key moulds with stone powder and then they will take a hotter material than the epoxy and silicone versions out there,
Steel isnt a problem,
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by Jaakko » 31 Mar 2007 13:59
Shrub, is that stone powder what the name implies, as in powdered stone?  Do you press the powder into a mold or do you mix it with something to get it stay hold? How do you get the original key out of the mold?
Tomorrow I can get some silicone to make tests with it and epoxy 
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by Shrub » 1 Apr 2007 9:02
Ok ill give a brief description of what i do but i dont really want to go into an exchaustive thread on it on here,
Stone power is the industrial equivalent to plaster of paris, its heat stable and can take some abuse to an extent, it sets in minutes with a bit less heat than plaster of paris,
I take a piece of plastic butter container and cut and fold it to a box without a top,, i tape the edges up with masking tape to keep it together and make it liquid tight,
I then mix enough stuff to fill half the container and pour it in,
I then spray a key blank (i do this for another process as i want the mould for a blank key not a cut one) with a mould release and then set it on top of the stone power,
Once set i remove the blank and then lay a layer of cling film (the thin mylar clear stuff you put over dishes of food before putting in the microwave) over the top,
I then press the key blank back into the mould where it was before except this time its now got a plastic film inbetween,
I then pour over that another mix of stone power,
Once set i remove the tape from the box and remove the mould, separate the two and remove the blank and film and then carve in an air release from the bottom of the key to the outside on one half,
Hey presto a reuseable mould that will take motlen steel if needbe,
Ive done one steel one and it didnt mark it but i suspect a few tries and it will eventually start the fine warding detail to break off a bit,
Brass, plastic, epoxy etc ive tried various materials for various projects and they all come out great,
If you want to mould steel keys regulary its not the system to use but just a few its fine, i dare say a bit of glass fibre in the powder mix would make the mould a lot better for the heat,
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