That rectangular hole in the front is where the special rekeying tool goes.

Here is the plug, where all the action is. It's extra large - 11/16" in diameter, almost 3/4". Each pin stack has a rocker next to it.

At the top of this picture we see a driver pin, which is hollow, I guess to allow for the longer spring. I've stuck a pick in the lock to show the path the rekeying tool uses. At the bottom you can see two of the rockers and two of the variable key pins.

The variable pins have a spring loaded plunger which is held at a specific depth by a little tab. Note that even with the extra wide plug, the pins only have four depths.

The rekeying tool must pry in there and seperate the tab from the plunger far enough for the plunger to move freely. The problem is that the rockers covering the tabs are flush with the surface of the plug when the tab is engaged. There's no room for the tab to retract. See the pin on the right. Thus the plug must be turned 90 degrees clockwise so the nose of the rocker can protrude up into the driver chamber, this gives enough room to seperate the tab and adjust the pin. See the pin on the left.

So I think the procedure for rekeying is to open the lock 90 degrees clockwise with a regular key, insert a needle-like tool to pry the tabs out of the adjustable pins, remove the key, stick your new key in, remove the needle, and close the lock, pressing the tabs back in with the rockers as you rotate.