Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by v12v12 » 5 Apr 2007 15:24
Matt? What does he teach at Penn and where? Hrmm that's interesting, a little local community at Penn... Argh I hate being sick, I'll have to postpone this reply... head is killing me!
E=Mc^2 = busted!
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v12v12
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by Shrub » 5 Apr 2007 15:30
Taken from Matts site,
University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, PA. Associate Professor of Computer and Information Science.
On January 1st, 2004, I joined the faculty at the Computer and Infomation Sciences Department at the University of Pennsylvania. where I study and teach security and cryptology. I also serve there as acting director of the Distributed Systems Laboratory, which is an academic and research resource for the study of networking and security.
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Shrub
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by Chucklz » 5 Apr 2007 16:02
Matts in CIS (Computer and Information Security) as part of SEAS. Office is in Levine somewhere. I haven't been in touch with him yet, as my year as been full as it is, but perhaps over the summer.
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by mercurial » 6 Apr 2007 3:20
v12v12 wrote:I'm bound determined to pick this lock and or bump it one to see if it can actually be done. I just have a very hard time believing that BEST with the little control key spacers is end the top end spectrum of security (minus security pins) and is just as difficult or more difficult than say a nasty pinned American Lock... course that's me being a lil' naive... 
Before you try bumping ANY Best lock, be aware that their keys are tip-stopped, not shoulder-stopped.
You must create an artificial shoulder-stop (hot glue shoulder being one way), and modify the tip.
Otherwise, the tip of the key being beaten into the back of the lock will quickly cause damage to the operating & plug retaining mechanism. The real key will then have a problem indexing, it will have to be inserted, and pulled back a little for it to turn.
...Mark
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by mercurial » 6 Apr 2007 3:24
Apologies for saying that three times, not sure how I managed that.
...Mark
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by MaximumCheese » 6 Apr 2007 10:33
My old arch-nemesis, the Best. I used to work security at a HUGE facility that used Best on everything, so naturally I ended up with a few of their locksets. I thought I was somewhat skilled before I came upon the Best. It took me a week, but I learned the lock and can now do it in under a minute.
I recommend a feather-touch tool. Make one yourself because there really aren't that many great ones out there for sale. I use something like this:
viewtopic.php?t=19285
"None are more hopelessly enslaved than those who falsely believe they are free."
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by v12v12 » 6 Apr 2007 15:02
MaximumCheese wrote:My old arch-nemesis, the Best. I used to work security at a HUGE facility that used Best on everything, so naturally I ended up with a few of their locksets. I thought I was somewhat skilled before I came upon the Best. It took me a week, but I learned the lock and can now do it in under a minute. I recommend a feather-touch tool. Make one yourself because there really aren't that many great ones out there for sale. I use something like this: viewtopic.php?t=19285
Ah thanks for the info... as what Shrub noted, I'm just the opposite... I have trouble getting something started, but once I do start the project... I'll forgo eating, sleeping, general hygiene and anything else until it's completed! I think that I might start up a project like that, since I'm Ill and not going anywhere this weekend!!!
BTW--- what's the verdict on the feather-touch tools; I've heard they lack feed back at all (doesn't makes sense to me, but that's what I've read)?
E=Mc^2 = busted!
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v12v12
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by Chucklz » 6 Apr 2007 16:15
The looped wire feather touch wrenches are pretty much the ones that everyone says are "crap" for picking. Very little feedback from them. The spring loop acts like a damper, making feeling subtle changes in the plug pretty much impossible.
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by v12v12 » 6 Apr 2007 16:21
Chucklz wrote:The looped wire feather touch wrenches are pretty much the ones that everyone says are "crap" for picking. Very little feedback from them. The spring loop acts like a damper, making feeling subtle changes in the plug pretty much impossible.
Then where does the "feather" soft-touch connotation come into relevance with this device, and why would the author recommend such a desensitized device? lol?
E=Mc^2 = busted!
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v12v12
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by Jaakko » 6 Apr 2007 17:02
v12v12 wrote:Then where does the "feather" soft-touch connotation come into relevance with this device, and why would the author recommend such a desensitized device? lol?
The feather-touch tensioning tool is exceptionally good while picking lock that has security pins. While keeping little tension on the lock, it still allows subtle movement to set a false set security pin. Other than that, it is not good for feeling the turning of the plug.
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by v12v12 » 6 Apr 2007 17:09
Oooh I see what you're saying... feel is not the objective, minute tension to quickly false-set and reset past security pins IS the objective with said tool... I learn on here everyday 
E=Mc^2 = busted!
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v12v12
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by MaximumCheese » 7 Apr 2007 0:30
Yeah... you just have to find what works for you. I find that the spring-assisted tension wrench works great for me on most locks that move freely. I even use it on easy masters, and only break out my solid tension wrench if the cylinder has a particularly tough time spinning. It's true that the spring DOES dampen some of the minute feedback from the lock, but I've found that different spring tensions and materials give different results. All in all, I've adapted the spring tension wrench into most of my technique. Many may disagree with me on this point, but I have found that I tend to have a generally easier time with the springy wrenches.
"None are more hopelessly enslaved than those who falsely believe they are free."
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by raimundo » 7 Apr 2007 11:10
I have not seen serrated pins in a best, but best sometimes has a stack of master wafers that could easily look like a serrated pin, so I suggest that you take a safty pin and poke the serration with the pointy end, if it goes in, thats a wafer stack. Graphite lubrication is particularily able to disguise a stack of wafers as a serrated pin.
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by raimundo » 7 Apr 2007 11:10
I have not seen serrated pins in a best, but best sometimes has a stack of master wafers that could easily look like a serrated pin, so I suggest that you take a safty pin and poke the serration with the pointy end, if it goes in, thats a wafer stack. Graphite lubrication is particularily able to disguise a stack of wafers as a serrated pin.
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by bobsaget » 7 Apr 2007 16:18
have fun picking the control key. usually you just drill any IC cores.
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