Rekeying a wafer lock?

[CatCube]

I've got a drawer set and a desk hutch with the same brand lock on them, but with different keys. They are both 4-wafer locks, with "esp corp" engraved on one of the keys. They are the standard "quarter turn to lock a tab" type locks. (I'd also appreciate it if someone could tell me what the actual term for this type of locking system is.)

They have the same key bitting in the 1 & 4 positions, and one key is bitted smaller on the middle two. Is it possible--and advisable--to take the higher cut wafers out of one of the locks and file them to the bitting of the other key? I'd like to cut down on the number of keys on my keyring.

[Romstar]

I've got a drawer set and a desk hutch with the same brand lock on them, but with different keys. They are both 4-wafer locks, with "esp corp" engraved on one of the keys. They are the standard "quarter turn to lock a tab" type locks. (I'd also appreciate it if someone could tell me what the actual term for this type of locking system is.)

ESP is: Engineered Security Products. A company I had thought was out of business until very recently. My first comercial pick set was an ESP set, and I was plesantly surprised last week to discover they are still making picks and tools. Although they may be owned by someone else now.

That lock is commonly refered to as a drawer latch, or lever latch. Also, as you have indicated a wafer latch. Lever latch is a poor term, because it refers to something different in Europe than it does here.

They have the same key bitting in the 1 & 4 positions, and one key is bitted smaller on the middle two. Is it possible--and advisable--to take the higher cut wafers out of one of the locks and file them to the bitting of the other key? I'd like to cut down on the number of keys on my keyring.

It is possible to rekey these locks to use the same key. Just disassemble them carefully, and compare the wafers. Oce you see what is going on, you will know which ones to file down.

Good luck,
Romstar

[CatCube]

Thanks. Now I just gotta get a fine enough file. I'm thinking of learning to impression sooner or later, so when I get that Swiss #4 pippen, I'll probably do this as a side project. Won't be for a while, though. I want to learn how to pick first, and get good enough at taking locks apart so I don't do any damage!

[Romstar]

If memory serves...... (I'm pretty zonked out right now, so take a good look at the wafers first).

As I was saying, if memory serves, you will want a flat file for these. The #4 pipen is a round file I think. (Geez, everything is hazy right now.)

Anyway, I think you will want a small, flat tapered file for this one.

Good luck,
Romstar

[randmguy]

Or as an alternative just remove the 2 and 3 wafers from the unmatching locks...They're wafer locks for heaven's sake its not like they're going to keep anyone out of your desk.

[Varjeal]

The locks you are referring to are called cam locks or drawer locks.

If one key is bitted shallow (we'll call it key #1 for my explanation) in the middle positions, here's what you'll need to do:

Remove lock #1 and disassemble (if possible, and it should be) to do that, first remove the lock from the drawer, it will be attached by a clip or a par of screws, OR a locking nut which simply screws off. Now, if the lock is rekeyable, you should be able to remove the screw from the rear of the lock, which allows you to remove the cam.

You can now remove the plug from the shell.

You'll need a very small flat needle file and a screwdriver.

You mentioned that #1 wafer (the front) and #4 wafer are the same, so this makes things easier.

Insert the #2 key into the lock. If the middle two wafers are only slightly protruding, then simply take a flat file and file the tops of the wafers until they are flush with the plug.

If they protrude a whole lot, you'll need to remove the wafers ( I suggest only removing one at a time and performing following procedure until it works, then move on), and with a small flat needle file, file the INSIDE of the wafer (the hole the key fits through) a little bit, then test. Repeat, until the wafer sits flush against the plug. This is a slow process, but is far more secure than leaving the offending wafers out.

Once everything sits nice 'n flush, reassemble and install the lock. Test several times with the drawer OPEN before trying it closed.

Hope that helps.

[CatCube]

Thanks, Varjeal. It never would have occurred to me to file the tops of the wafers, rather that the part where the key sits. I'm not sure if the lock is supposed to be rekeyable, so I have to inspect it further to make sure it can be taken apart without breaking it. I haven't had the time to take it out and inspect it--maybe this weekend.

[Varjeal]

I'd suggest NOT filing the tops of the wafers unless they're fairly close. Filing the inside edge of the wafer that actually rides on the key is much preferred.