Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by globallockytoo » 21 Aug 2006 13:31
Now that American has been bought out...the quality will likely not be the same in future....so enjoy while you can because it's all downhill from here
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by Ray_Air » 9 Sep 2006 14:22
globallockytoo wrote:Yes, but a cheap rod saw available at most hardware stores and the blades fit on most hack saw handles, can be purchased for about $2.00 each and will cut through those shackles like swiss cheese!
A carbide rod saw is fine if a thief can work on the lock in a secluded area and has some time to spend on it. 99% of thieves wont go that route. It still took me a good 15 minutes to go through a big Medeco padlock we had with a rod saw. A cut off wheel is the best option, but who wants to carry an air compressor around?
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by tharms17 » 9 Sep 2006 15:12
some matserlocks are good...but if you want military grade locks go with the american lock A5200 series. all the pins in these locks are all security pins which is means really hard to pick and i dont think anyway has. if you wanna lock go with this one.
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by UWSDWF » 9 Sep 2006 15:45
Ray_Air wrote:globallockytoo wrote:Yes, but a cheap rod saw available at most hardware stores and the blades fit on most hack saw handles, can be purchased for about $2.00 each and will cut through those shackles like swiss cheese!
A carbide rod saw is fine if a thief can work on the lock in a secluded area and has some time to spend on it. 99% of thieves wont go that route. It still took me a good 15 minutes to go through a big Medeco padlock we had with a rod saw. A cut off wheel is the best option, but who wants to carry an air compressor around?
man i cut off medeco pads with bolt cutters in like 30sec
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by plot » 24 Dec 2006 13:50
Nice, picked one up for $13 and some change after shipping. 44 left.
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by Squelchtone » 31 Dec 2006 0:15
arrived.
and picked.
=) w00t.
notes: regular tension wrench would not work, but my Peterson double prong did.
pick used: medium hook.
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by nothumbs » 12 Apr 2007 18:51
Has anyone done a teardown on an American H10 and/or have instructions on getting one apart? I've got a couple (no keys) and would like to take one apart. They are fairly easy to pick using a double-sided rake and a small tension wrench, and I've found the small screw at the base inside. However, removing the screw does not seem to accomplish anything as the core does not seem to be released. Clearly I'm missing one or more steps; help or hints greatly appreciated.
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by nekret » 13 Apr 2007 0:21
I think there's a link somewhere on this forum of how to remove the cores for these but what I remember doing is that once you remove that screw you have to turn the cylinder to 45 degrees, hold the lock body so the shackle hole is pointing down and beat the !@#$ out of the top side. Basically there is a pin that falls into the space that the screw was previously sitting in when you hit it hard and often enough to overcome friction. once this happens you might need to pull on the cylinder a little but it should come out relatively easy.
Be careful though as once the cylinder drops out the rest will usually come with it.
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by Squelchtone » 13 Apr 2007 0:31
nothumbs wrote:Has anyone done a teardown on an American H10 and/or have instructions on getting one apart? I've got a couple (no keys) and would like to take one apart. They are fairly easy to pick using a double-sided rake and a small tension wrench, and I've found the small screw at the base inside. However, removing the screw does not seem to accomplish anything as the core does not seem to be released. Clearly I'm missing one or more steps; help or hints greatly appreciated.
There is a pin which holds the cylinder in the lock. when you remove the screw you create an empty space for the pin to enter. this will require hitting the lock as described below so the pin can dislodge and fall into the newly created cavity.
I googled "American lock H10 disassembly" and came up with this wonderful book http://books.google.com/books?id=2bdecJYX4dkC&dq=american+lock+h10+disassembly
Enjoy!
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by Squelchtone » 13 Apr 2007 0:43
Here is mine after hitting the side of the padlock with some pliers several times and jiggling the cylinder to loosen the pin. btw.. worked very well to hit the side of the lock where you took the screw out, with that side pointing down and hitting the pliers or mallet if you have one in an upwards motion, let gravity do the rest.
Notice brass pin in lock housing and notice milled groove in cylinder for pin to ride in while key rotates the lock. *cylinder rotated 180° to show milled groove.
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by nothumbs » 13 Apr 2007 11:41
Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. I'll give it a try this weekend. Should be interesting to see what happens as I pull the core out with no key in place. Guess I should either leave a pick in the keyway or build some sort of sleeve over the core.
I've got three of these locks I purchased off eBay for practice. There were all full of crud (I think that's the technical term) when they arrived and it took a liberal dose of TriFlo and some digging to get the tumblers working well enough to be picked. I'l like to disassemble the locks and clean them better.
It's a good day when I learn something new.
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by nekret » 13 Apr 2007 12:09
nothumbs wrote:Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. I'll give it a try this weekend. Should be interesting to see what happens as I pull the core out with no key in place. Guess I should either leave a pick in the keyway or build some sort of sleeve over the core.
I've got three of these locks I purchased off eBay for practice. There were all full of crud (I think that's the technical term) when they arrived and it took a liberal dose of TriFlo and some digging to get the tumblers working well enough to be picked. I'l like to disassemble the locks and clean them better.
It's a good day when I learn something new.
The wafers will stay in place in the cylinder whether or not you have the key in it so it's really not that critical. I got mine in the same condition as yours, no key and full of gunk.
I Still would like to make a key for it but hand filing a symmetric key and having it work decently seems a bit much so I might just have to order a new cylinder/key for it.
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by Squelchtone » 13 Apr 2007 12:25
I'll scan in my keys so you can try the general template and get a better idea of the curvy-ness of the keys as compared to other keys which have peaks and valleys.
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by Squelchtone » 14 Apr 2007 22:11
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