Excellent cleaner for locks

by **WOT** » 12 Apr 2007 23:44

I found a product that is very effective at cleaning lock cylinders.

Berryman Electric Motor Cleaner aerosol. Available for around $5 at many auto parts stores stocking Berryman products.

When it comes to gunked up stuff, mineral spirits doesn't even compare in strength. Very powerful, highly volatile(more so than alcohol) and non-flammable.

by **Eyes_Only** » 12 Apr 2007 23:55

Is it petrol based in any way?

by **WOT** » 13 Apr 2007 1:22

Eyes_Only wrote:Is it petrol based in any way?

No, it's 100% synthetic.
Pure trichloroethylene solvent and carbon dioxide propellant.

chlorinated hydrocarbon maybe harmful to your health just like the dye in your food, lead content in your keys, etc.

by **taracor** » 13 Apr 2007 3:08

That's a good find, I might check that out. I've just been using Isopryl Alcohol and a blower bulb thing.

by **ComTech** » 13 Apr 2007 7:10

Has anyone tried Brake Parts cleaner that you can buy in spray cans from just about any auto parts store? I use it to clean brake dust and grease off before doing a brake job, but I don't think I ever tried it on a lock.
Any comments?

by **SlingsVaqueros** » 13 Apr 2007 9:06

Brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner are both great for un-gunking just about any metal items. It breaks down oils and greases and blows them away. It's great for getting cosmoline off of surplus rifles without pitting the metal, or ruining the finish. I know locks are smaller than guns, but if you think about the complexity of a trigger mechanism, or firing pin spring, you can see there are a lot of comparisons to make between guns and locks that would make their delicate natures a-like.

by **Shrub** » 13 Apr 2007 11:53

I use wd-40 but all the above are great suggestions,
Be careful however with the fierce cleaners as they can pull the oil out of materials like aluminium and brass which leaves a rougher surface,

by **WOT** » 13 Apr 2007 12:37

SlingsVaqueros wrote:Brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner are both great for un-gunking just about any metal items. It breaks down oils and greases and blows them away. It's great for getting cosmoline off of surplus rifles without pitting the metal, or ruining the finish. I know locks are smaller than guns, but if you think about the complexity of a trigger mechanism, or firing pin spring, you can see there are a lot of comparisons to make between guns and locks that would make their delicate natures a-like.

Brake cleaner is perchloroethylene and works quite well too, which has a kB value of 90 and has lower volatility, while trichloroethylene(motor cleaner) has 130, which is an index of solvent power.

Alcohol is simply ineffective against heavy oil grime.

Carburetor cleaner/non-chlorinated brake cleaner are almost the same formulation and while they work, it isn't quite as effective. You can see it in the way the build up dissolves as you spray it. Also, they're extremely flammable.

by **WOT** » 13 Apr 2007 16:50

Shrub wrote:I use wd-40 but all the above are great suggestions,
Be careful however with the fierce cleaners as they can pull the oil out of materials like aluminium and brass which leaves a rougher surface,

Metal parts used in locks are not porous and they don't retain oil and solvent wash do not damage them.

Trichloroethylene is attacks many plastics however. WD-40 is comparable in cleaning strength to mineral spirits, or plain old paint thinner in an aerosol can but it contains a substantial amount of oil.

by **Eyes_Only** » 13 Apr 2007 18:46

I like brake cleaner as well. If I need to clean a lock I just blast it with brake cleaner to flush the insides, then blast it again with a can of compressed air to blow out anything that stayed inside the lock, then add some dry lubricant.

by **Shrub** » 13 Apr 2007 20:40

I didnt mean porus or oil retention i was more meaning the actual composition of brass has an oily texture thats why it is used in simple bearings which then are improved by adding materials to make things like oil lite and phosper bronze etc which are all self lubricating,

Ever wondered why its so hard to paint aluminium? why brass and alluminium paint requires an acid etch before hand before the paint sticks,

Im not saying that the cleaners will remove or chance the surface texture of the brass pins but im saying it could do,

If you look at a brass lock body that has has some powerful stuff on it you will see it goes a dull colour and it feels very very dry, rubbing two bits together will instantly mark both pieces,

But hey im not saying your wrong, you may have much more experiance than i in which case i bow down to your expertise,

by **Eyes_Only** » 13 Apr 2007 21:54

Throttle body cleaner is a lot less corrosive compared to brake cleaner so that may prevent any possible damage to the brass. But then again, most throttle body cleaners tends to contain some amount of oil based lubricant to help stop build up on the throttle plate and stuff.

by **bumber** » 13 Apr 2007 22:11

Yeah so I didnt know this was Chem. 101 can someone tell me where to find LP101? :shock:

J/K I have tried alot of these, as well as some others they all work. What about some acetone or nail polish remover(same thing but with fragrance and color) Or is that a no no?

by **Chucklz** » 13 Apr 2007 22:55

You should remember that many locks with a bright brass finish have some kind of coating. Many solvents can/will remove this coating.

by **2octops** » 13 Apr 2007 23:43

Electrical Contact Cleaner or motor cleaner is the safest to use in my opinion.

I had to have a bumper painted because I was a nice guy and cleaned the locks on a car with brake cleaner. It ran down through a weep hole in the trunk lock and left a nice bleached out stripe on a black plastic bumper of a Mitsu Eclipse.

Carb cleaner will soften paint and remove clear finishes that is used on brass hardware. It can also bleach/stain a beautifully stained wooden door. Just ask me how I know.

Have never had issues with contact cleaner except for the smell.

Excellent cleaner for locks

Excellent cleaner for locks

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