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Unpickable Yale?

European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.

Postby Luke » 15 May 2004 15:30

There are certain locksmiths who supply yale tecknik, but in Australia yale is quiet expensive to buy to say a lockwood replacement cylinder, i get mine second hand.
"I took the path less travelled by and that made all the difference"
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Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Re: Yales

Postby lordofbaal » 17 May 2004 11:24

Prodigy wrote:Hey guys,

We have heaps of yales here down under, and yes i agree on some of the others, the pin at the base of the keyway NEEDS TO BE DEPRESSED first so as to allow the plug to turn. I would say this little device is designed to prevent tension to be placed on the pins untill it has been set in the housing.


I have also purchased this lock from B&Q (I bought the 2 key package at £10 approx)

But I cannot see any pin at the base of the keyway.
There is also a notch on the base of the key but it does not enter the keyway ... weird!!

I have tried everything from shouting to begging and this lock still won’t open for me :(



LordOfBaal
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Postby Jlo » 17 May 2004 11:31

Hi LordofBaal,

How many pins does the lock have?

Yale still have for sale there normal pin tumbler locks (5pin) which still have spool pins.

The lock you need is the yale 'X' Technology. Look here http://www.yale.co.uk/x-tech.html

This has 6 pins, the little pin at the bottom and antidrill pins etc.

Which one have you got?

Cheers

Jlo
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Postby lordofbaal » 17 May 2004 17:04

i have the 'front door X5 Cylinder'
Part number P-X52KP-PB (BRASS)
with 6 pins

here are some pictures of the lock.
Image

Underside of the lock
http://img68.photobucket.com/albums/v208/lordofbaal/Yale_006.jpg


Close up of keyway
http://img68.photobucket.com/albums/v208/lordofbaal/Yale_003.jpg

i hope this clears up any confusion

Unlike Quin i dont know how to remove the cylinder from the lock housing!

LordOfBaal
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Postby lordofbaal » 17 May 2004 17:19

I think this picture:
Image
Was part of an April fools joke about 'instantly bypassing' this type of lock so I think you cant take what it appears to be showing seriously!

The notch on the key does not go into the keyway on my lock

http://img68.photobucket.com/albums/v208/lordofbaal/Yale_008.jpg
lordofbaal
 
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Postby Jlo » 19 May 2004 16:02

Hi,

Well you definatly have the right lock.

Sounds like a real toughy! Let us know if you manage to pick it.

Cheers

Jlo
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Postby monkeE » 25 May 2004 11:15

but once the core is rotated 180 degrees, they can cause trouble, dropping and causing the core to stop in the upside down position. its more annoying than unsolvable.


Very solvable :), just use the tension tool to keep those nasty small pins from falling into the keyway.




And all is good in pinsville.
-MonkeE
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Postby toomush2drink » 25 May 2004 11:51

This lock is the daddy its so hard !!! Because the spools are so shallow the plug doesnt even turn a little when they set so you get no feed back when lifting them to tell if it is a spool set or the pin set. The thing at the bottom of the lock is nothing but a plate and doesnt interact with the key.Maybe it will if its picked but i cant manage that yet and will use the plug spinner to overcome it.
This is a challenge even my electric gun wont open it. If i encounter one of these on a door im gonna drill it as ihave worked out how to over come the antidrill plate.
If you can get hold of one of these please do, as i would love to hear of someone picking it.
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Postby HeadHunterCEO » 25 May 2004 18:27

but it does not say anti hammer drill/safe bit so there is at least one way
Doorologist
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Postby toomush2drink » 27 May 2004 1:25

I have discovered this lock can be shimmed from the front after drilling with a dremel.
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Postby monkeE » 27 May 2004 11:35

If we are gonna go the destructive path... Why not save the plug by snapping/drilling the bottom pins a bit, and then brute force push combing this suckah open? Then you only have to replaces those tricky little annoying pins :) If you are lucky, only the bottom pins at that! :lol:


Just a 2¢ idea...
-MonkeE
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Postby toomush2drink » 27 May 2004 12:59

Because of the shape of the keyway it would be quite hard to do this and i think the pins are anti drill too.Also remember if you go for the point above the shear line there is a lovely ball bearing waiting for your drill bit.
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Postby monkeE » 27 May 2004 13:05

If I weren't a starving college student, I would go buy one of these locks just to have some dirlling fun :)

What technology do they use to make the pins "anti-drill"? Is it just a good tempering job? Or do they allow the pins to rotate (the ball bearing idea). I haven't had any problem drilling out any pins from a lock ever before... It takes about two drills per pin. I drill once through, rotate 90, and drill again... then *snap*. Leaves a sharp toothy looking assembly, but usually loses enough material for a good ole' push combing...

I dunno, might have to try it on Yales. You are totally correct in saying the keyway would be a major problem for this. The pins I have drilled where in a very straight keyway...
-MonkeE
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Postby toomush2drink » 27 May 2004 13:09

The problem with anti drill pins is that the first cuople of pins may be normal then the next 2 are anti drill which can snap your drill bit.Now you have to get the broken drill bit out of the hole to go through it again and possibly break another dirll bit.I did a job on a euro cylinder that a builder had tried to drill but it snapped 3 of his drill bits and the last was right in the hole and wouldnt budge, luckily i could use my snapper on it and remove the whole lock.
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Postby monkeE » 27 May 2004 13:23

LOL! Well thanks for the warning, I might slow my drill happiness down just a notch now :).
-MonkeE
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