Tool recommendations, information on your favorite automatic and/or mechanical lockpicking devices for those with less skills, or looking to make their own.
by UWSDWF » 19 Apr 2007 15:40
i don't do zip files... host it on photobucket or something similar......
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by n00bking » 19 Apr 2007 15:46
well what about the video? you need to watch the vid, the pics are just extra.
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by UWSDWF » 19 Apr 2007 15:53
photobucket hosts videos as well... then it runs them in a flash app. allowing people to view it from their site
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by UWSDWF » 19 Apr 2007 16:15
peaks too high valleys not low enough shoulder and tip need filing and I'm not sure if your spacing is correct
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by n00bking » 19 Apr 2007 16:19
shoulder and tip?
i am a n00b, what are those?
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by UWSDWF » 19 Apr 2007 16:24
tip = end of the key
shoulder = where the blade meets the bow
 DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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by Eyes_Only » 19 Apr 2007 18:47
You may also want to widen out the valleys as well a bit. And use a screwdriver instead of another lock for a bump hammer, although I think using a padlock was a ironically cool idea.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by CompFX » 20 Apr 2007 20:49
One tap of bump hammer per try. If the key does not pop back out, you need to reset the key and try again. Once the key is fully seated in the lock (because of the first tap of the bump hammer), taping it more and / or harder will make no difference.
You need to take a file and shave off some of that tip. The tip is the very first part of the key that enters the lock. It looks like this >. You should file it just a little; make the tip not so sharp. Don't make it to blunt or it will not glide in the lock. Second of all, you need to also shave off some of the shoulder. The bow (head) is the part of the key that you are beating on. The shoulder is that little nub sticking out at the bottom of the bow. It is the part that keeps the key from being inserted to far into the lock. Put your key all the way in the lock. Look where the lock and the key meet. That is the shoulder of the key.
You will know when you have taken enough off the shoulder / tip when you can insert the key all the way and it wants to spring back out a little bit. This is called the minimal movement method.
Do NOT use your original key as a bump key!!! This can (and probably will) mess up the lock and make it dysfunctional, or operate poorly.
Also, I cannot tell in the video, but do not use to much pressure when you are trying to turn the key with your thumb during the bump. To tell how much pressure you should be applying while bumping, take the working key and put it in the lock. See how much pressure it takes to turn the key just a little bit. Not the pressure it takes to spring the lock open. It should not take hardly any at all unless the lock is dirty, or damaged.
Using a padlock as a bump hammer is not such a good idea. This is to much weight. Try for something a little lighter. It does not take a lot of force to make a bump key work. The handle of a screwdriver will work. Or the wooden handle of a small hammer.
Also, sort of a guide line on bump keys. If it dont work within the first few tries, mod the key and try again.
To see if a bump key is even going to work, apply a medium pressure and strike it with the bump hammer. Pull the key out and look at the front side of the "Mountains" There should be little impressions where the pins are rubbing on the key. If you see 2 or 3, but not all 4, then there is a tooth not even hitting a pin and therefore, that key will never work as a bump key. If the front of the "Mountains" is being severely dented by a pin, then you could probably make a pass or two with a file. Just remember not to file to much off or you will have to start all over again.
CompFX

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by n00bking » 21 Apr 2007 11:26
thanks, um, I ordered a bump key from bumpkey.us yesterday before I read your post, I may follow your guy's help until the bump key gets here. Thanks. And sorry, CompFX, you made that gigantic informative post, and...I am not gonna use it. sorry.
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by Eyes_Only » 22 Apr 2007 0:17
Peterson and Southern Specialties both carry commercial bump hammers. The Peterson version has an option of being able to add lead weights on the head to adjust the impact force of the hammer. I haven't heard of any reviews about the one made by Southern Specialties but it looks a lot like the coveted tomahawk hammer.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by CompFX » 22 Apr 2007 8:30
That is alright. Maybe someone else that is having problems with bumpkeys will find it and it will help them. Although I hope you read it as it also contains information relating to the bump procedure that is applicable to commercial bump keys as well.
Just so you are aware, the keys from bumpkey.us will need to be filed to work properly. It is a federal crime to send pre-modified bump keys in the mail. What you will be getting is "Space and Depth keys."
CompFX
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by n00bking » 22 Apr 2007 11:56
what?
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