scorpiac wrote:Every once in a while give a little extra push on the tension wrench. I have this lock and on more than one occasion I have had it picked but not realized it because I wasn't using enough tension to turn the plug ( thought it was in a false set and when trying to add a little tension the plug turned and the lock opened) So I guess I'm saying it takes light tension to pick the lock but then hard tension to turn the plug.
Phil.
Of course, I can only tell you what works for me but here is what I have done......
Phil's advice is (IMO) right on the money. I actually need to get into a few Master high-end locks like the 900 & 9000 series at work. There, speed and efficiency is the most important thing so we just use a gun and be done with it. But I can tell you I have worked with these and Americans for a few months so far and they are not easy. But they ARE a real challenge and you feel like you really got something when you get them with a pick. The tension is the real issue (just my opinion....).
I made a special tension wrench just for those type of padlocks (re-key types). What I found out was, first, what Phil just explained, second, that the cylinder retainer was a problem in that it gave you less room to work; hence the need for a wench that is strong and long, etc. Third, that there is no shackle-open spring on many (especially the Master 9x locks)...that lock will not "pop" open and the tension to turn the cylinder is not some gentle movement of an middle finger but a real turn of perhaps 2-3 lbs.
The tension wrench should be very rigid and have depth to the blade. It should not be at a 90 degree angle but perhaps @ 75 degrees, etc. Clean the lock; big time then IF you have the key; look at the pin configuration from that. Try to find a lock of this type that does NOT have a "deep-shallow" pin config to learn on....it seems like stacking the deck against you. So you have a clean lock to start; with a few fast rakes to attempt to set the pins that may set at that point, grip the lock so that the shackle is never touching your hand or fingers in any manner. Use a middle or ring finger to control tension - but before you do, insert the tension wrench and turn the cylinder and feel if the rotation is smooth. it will only move about .25-.5mm. But you want to get the MOST feel-back you can so make sure THAT portion is clean. Plus by making a gentle turn you can start to make a determination of what spring tension is behind the cylinder rotation. At the height of the turn, remember what tension is applied; that is what you may want to use as a opening tension weight.
When after you have swiped it a couple of times feel whats binding and back off and start again but with the idea that you are going to get false feels on some of the pins. When you have determined where those are in the line-up, attempt to bounce them with a very shallow hook. What I do is get RIGHT UNDER the pin tip and push straight as I can into the shell-housing. If you are gentle with the pins but fairly strong with the tension you may pop it. If you find yourself backing off to drop some pins while keeping the set ones in place with the blade of the pick, my bet is that you will eventually get it. Because that co-ordination is what I wind up with as the tough ones get close to being "do-able".
. Anyway, well thats my begging for help post and i hope i get some replayes, as all post do 
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, anyway they will turn up, so once i find them ill take it apart and re-pine the sucker. Thanks for the help and info.