Warded picks... confused noob here...

[freakparade3]

Their should be a warded pick in your set that will work just like a key to open the lock. Where did you but your picks from? Try inserting the warded pick into your lock all the way then apply turning pressure as you slowly pull the pick back. Their will be a spot that it will work. The pick that looks like a T is the most useful one I have found.

[freakparade3]

Can you post a picture? Their is no reason I can think of they wouldent be working. Warded locks are simple and offer little security.

[Eyes_Only]

Those thinner parts on the real key probably doesn't do anything. Most likely it's just there because a couple of the wardings in the lock was placed very close to each other. The thicker parts are where the wire that holds down the shackle should be, usually the top one. But like freakparade said, the simple "t" pick should do the trick.

[zeke79]

An easy way to make a warded pick for these locks is to grind down all but the tip. Take all of the bits off the rest of the key.

Some I have heard however use more than one point for the unlocking location. I have never ran across one, but do not rule it out.

[blake1803]

Eyes_Only and zeke are on the mark, but one more thing to consider: it's possible that you've picked it without even realizing. Often on those warded Master padlocks the shackle won't spring open. Try lightly pulling on it.

[copeman]

i cant get mine to work in a master 22 either so i just use a grinded down key and it works just fine

[Trip Doctor]

What's the difference between the skeleton key you bought and the one you made from an operating key?

[Trip Doctor]

What's the difference between the skeleton key you bought and the one you made from an operating key Copeman?

[XOR]

If you look at the original key you'll see that the only the tabs on the front of the key are actually releasing the bolt. The other four tabs going toward the bow of the key are designed to go around the wards in the lock.

So you have two choices:

1) Looks like you could easily use the bottom most pick. Put in all the way into the lock and twist. You should feel the spring tension of the bolts. Be sure you pull on the shackle in case it is sticking.

2) You can grind off the four tabs in the middle of your key and just leave the thicker tabs at the tip. The tabs at the tip are the only thing that matter for opening this lock.

You shouldn't have any problems opening this lock with either method unless the lock is malfunctioning.

[XOR]

If you look at the original key you'll see that the only the tabs on the front of the key are actually releasing the bolt. The other four tabs going toward the bow of the key are designed to go around the wards in the lock.

So you have two choices:

1) Looks like you could easily use the bottom most pick. Put in all the way into the lock and twist. You should feel the spring tension of the bolts. Be sure you pull on the shackle in case it is sticking.

2) You can grind/file off the four tabs in the middle of your key and just leave the thicker tabs at the tip. The tabs at the tip are the only thing that matter for opening this lock.

You shouldn't have any problems opening this lock with either method unless the lock is malfunctioning.

[XOR]

Sorry for the double post. The network connection dropped off during the posting and I retried without checking the thread.

[cav_king]

Would that groove in the last tab make much difference here?

I have got a set of warded pics, but no warded locks so I have tested mine yet... They look the same though.

[XOR]

Would that groove in the last tab make much difference here?

It could depending on the lock. Once I grind off the tabs I'll also grind both sides of the key down some to get it flatter. You don't want to go too thin or your new skeleton key will bend when you try it in the lock. Just grind it a little flatter so it can fit in the keyhole easier.

[Afisch]

The protusion on the end of your warded pick is far longer then the one on the key maybe the issue is you cant get the pick in far enough to reach and that you instead incounter a ward.

[blake1803]

The protusion on the end of your warded pick is far longer then the one on the key maybe the issue is you cant get the pick in far enough to reach and that you instead incounter a ward.

If that were the case, he could most likely use the pick second from the top in his picture (the L-shaped pick).

Some I have heard however use more than one point for the unlocking location. I have never ran across one, but do not rule it out.

After re-reading this I took out one of my warded Master locks and by chance it happened to fit this profile. It needs a turn at the top and a few milimeters down as well.