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Trouble with A1 Pak-a-Punch (IC)

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Trouble with A1 Pak-a-Punch (IC)

Postby sssman » 7 Jun 2007 16:38

I recently purchased an A1 Interchangeable Core Pak-a-Punch. I tried cutting a Best key with it. I followed the instructions to the letter. I tried it in the lock, and it was somewhat stiff, and I could only get it to turn in one direction. The original key I got the code from works fine in the lock. What is going on?
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caliper

Postby raimundo » 7 Jun 2007 17:09

you got a caliper?
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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caliper

Postby sssman » 7 Jun 2007 18:42

No, I don't. Should I get one? Could you recommend one?
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Postby Eyes_Only » 7 Jun 2007 20:02

I got mines at Fry's Electronics. The brand name is General I think. Try to get a digital one if possible. It makes things much easier and faster.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Postby 2octops » 7 Jun 2007 22:58

It needs to be calibrated.

I have not had one of those in years and do not remember how to do it. You should be able to call A1 and they can walk you thru it.
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Postby Shrub » 8 Jun 2007 4:33

If the machine is right then the lock is worn,

Cutting keys to manufactures codes means that if the lock is worn it will be stiff to work the key if possable at all,

A quick shimmy over with a needle file will clear up any tighness,

Otherwise as said make sure your cutter is 100% accurite,
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Postby Keyring » 8 Jun 2007 5:23

Shrub: I've heard this said before on here, and I still don't understand it. Surely a worn key doesn't compensate for a worn lock? Surely both contribute error in the same direction. So I don't get filing the key, unless we're just removing burr, which I guess is a good possiblility in this case.
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Postby Shrub » 8 Jun 2007 5:43

Hmm,

Let me work this out properly then as i agree it doesnt sound right after reading it again and your responce,

A worn key in a new lock will not lift the pins high enough to shear,

A worn lock with a new key would not lift the pins up high enough still,

A worn key in a worn lock wouldnt work :?

Hmmm, i think your right,

When on my duplicator i can cut 10 keys all perfect for differant locks but maybe one of them would be stiff and a quick brush with a file would let it work smoother, even though all the other keys work perfectly and all the locks are the same make and model the theorectical one that didnt fit would be too high,
I always put it down to worn locks but as you say its not so,

What is it then as calibration isnt the cause in my case,


Another idea while writing this for the OP could be that the spacing is slightly off as in the key wasnt set in the cutter properly maybe?
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Postby digital_blue » 8 Jun 2007 7:17

Unless that worn lock has been rekeyed at some point. It could be possible that it no longer works with factory spec cuts, no?
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Postby RodVT » 8 Jun 2007 7:51

I have a new Pak-a-Punch and it was off by about 4 thousandths out of the box (well not really, it was off when I put in the Schlage die, came with KW1). You need a caliper to check your cuts. Adjustment is very easy with the set screw on the top. Also, you must hold the head, manually compressing the depth when punching, to make sure it doesn't add a few thousandths then also. Deburring after punching is a good idea too.
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Postby sssman » 10 Jun 2007 10:03

Also, you must hold the head, manually compressing the depth when punching, to make sure it doesn't add a few thousandths then also. Deburring after punching is a good idea too.


I tried putting the original keys I cut back into the punch, applying more pressure to the head while recutting (some metal shavings did come off), and then gave the keys a good wire brushing. The keys are still a little stiff, but they work in both directions.

Thanks for all you help everyone!
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Re: Trouble with A1 Pak-a-Punch (IC)

Postby WOT » 10 Jun 2007 13:43

sssman wrote:I recently purchased an A1 Interchangeable Core Pak-a-Punch. I tried cutting a Best key with it. I followed the instructions to the letter. I tried it in the lock, and it was somewhat stiff, and I could only get it to turn in one direction. The original key I got the code from works fine in the lock. What is going on?


Best keys are particularly problematic to hold in place and they because of their key profile. Does the Pak-a-Punch retain the blank by the groove on the right at the bottom of the key blade? This is the only way I'm aware of to hold the blade perfectly flat.

If the key is too stiff, adjust the machine so that it's 2-3 thousandth deeper than specs. This is the way properly cut factory seems to come in.

To do this, cut a 4444444 key, then, set it so it's 2-3 thousandth deeper than the #4 spec.
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