Lockwood 110/40

[sevenAU]

i can only assume that they would be in everything except for the small sizes, i think 110/30 have a few and i can only assume that the larger locks /40 and up would have them too.

[Pwnany]

Thanks SevenAU for telling me that is has 4 spools! That's good information mate!

-Pwnany

[sevenAU]

The 110 and 120 range are not servicebale/rekeyable so you can't (non-destructively) open them up to verify their pinning.

Yes they are completely servicable and rekeyable, its not worth it for any locksmith to bother, but they are.

If you look on the side of the lock you will see faint outlines of a series of small circles (you may need to polish the surface to make these visible). This is where the pins were inserted during manufacture. The holes are plugged with brass. I've been intending to try this for some time (but the drill press is packed away), you can center punch and then drill out these plugs. You will have to be conservative with the drill press so you don't drill into the spring and driver pin. Once drilled you can remove the pins and springs and settle the matter once and for all!

Thats how they are rekeyed, the brass retainers are punched, drilled then once the lock is rekeyed or inspected new brass retaining pins are hammered in.

If you have the tools, skills and materials you could create a recess/cover for the pin holes so you can add, remove and shuffle pins for training purposes. I'm yet to do this so don't ask me how. Any ideas would be appreciated (I'm not sure if Illisuion's method of creating a rekeyable padlock will work on these heavy brass padlocks).=

Nope, this lock uses pins rather than a bar retainer. The best way of doing this is to tap the holes where the retainers were and fit small grub screws.

I would like to start a list of Australian locks and their characteristics for this forum (including pictures). I hope to start this in 2007 when I have (re-)set-up my workshop. Hopefully you and other Australians will be willing and able to contribute to the list.

No problems, give me a yell and i will lend a hand!

[sevenAU]

Oops... not used to quoting.

Reread this, the red was me.

I feel stupid.

lockjaw wrote:
Yes they are completely servicable and rekeyable, its not worth it for any locksmith to bother, but they are.

If you look on the side of the lock you will see faint outlines of a series of small circles (you may need to polish the surface to make these visible). This is where the pins were inserted during manufacture. The holes are plugged with brass. I've been intending to try this for some time (but the drill press is packed away), you can center punch and then drill out these plugs. You will have to be conservative with the drill press so you don't drill into the spring and driver pin. Once drilled you can remove the pins and springs and settle the matter once and for all!

[mjwhit]

Preview Button=Your friend

If you look on the side of the lock you will see faint outlines of a series of small circles (you may need to polish the surface to make these visible)

Just make sure you use real fine sandpaper to polish otherwise it makes it harder to see. I grabbed the first thing i saw which was 180 grit and now its all blended together.... hahaha lucky i have 2 of the same lock

[sevenAU]

I realised

You could just grab the key and line it up with the lock and use a permanent marker to show the locations of the retainers.

[kizza8484]

I had a very similar lockwood to this one which I couldn't pick for the life of me. Not sure about its size in relation to the one this thread was started about, but it has 4 pins, with 3 of them spools (I know coz I drilled it).

Anyway, I ended up figuring out the problem. Not sure if by design or coincedence, but when the pick was in working on the rear pins, it perfectly positioned the first pin which was a spool to false set - that sort of partial turn.

I worked out to get around this was once I get the false set, i put slight pressure on the first pin, and very very slowley let up on the tension wrench until the pin set. Then the plug was free to turn. Works everytime.

With that, this lock went from my most difficult to one of the easiest I have.

[Raymond]

An old technique to remove & replace these pins is to drill a smaller hole, screw in a very small sheet metal screw (self-tapping) and pull the pin plug. Thread the hole about half a pin's width and screw in a brass screw. If you thread the same length on a brass rod and cut it off above the threads, after using heavy sandpaper the plugs will no longer be visible. If you dont want to thread the holes, any brass plug can be hammered in and sanded off. Be careful not to make a dent in the surrounding case as the brass is relatively soft. Using this method will allow you to make a repinnable practice lock before setting the pins permanently.

I'm not used to your slang. What is referred to by a "grub" screw?

[lunchb0x]

scroll down the page and it has a picture of a grub screw


http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgu ... n%26sa%3DN

[Marco]

ah my fellow aussies! there is more than i thought! i have a lockwood 110/35 and after doing a bit of reading i found out that this lock also contains up to 3 out of 4 spool pins. I guess we can now assume that any lockwood padlock in the 110 series will contain spool pins.