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schlage key cutting

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

schlage key cutting

Postby Rodfather23 » 15 Jun 2007 16:17

As some of you know I posted a week or so ago about files for impressioning. Well I already had a round chainsaw and small triangle file, so I decided just to try and duplicate the key for my schlage. The schlage original key I have has triangle cuts instead of round or squard like a kwikset. But since everyone one says use either a pippin or rat tail I only used the round file and smoked the original key with a candle. I cut it down to where it just rubbed the smoke off the original key, then I took the triangle and cleaned up the edges, but it wouldn't open the lock. I took the plug out of the lock and looked at the bottom pins with the original 1st then the duplicated and the pins seemed to be at about the same level.

Could the problem be that the key is suppose to have triangle cuts and not round? Should i just try using the triangle file?
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Postby freakparade3 » 15 Jun 2007 16:37

Try putting the key you cut in the plug and looking at the heights of the pins. That will tell you if your cuts are to high or low. For duplicating like you are your triangle file should work fine. It takes a few times to get it right.
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Postby freakparade3 » 15 Jun 2007 16:42

Sorry, I misread your post, you have already done what I suggested. :oops: As for the cuts they need to be the same slope as your original key. I find that using a blue sharpie works best for marking the key. It lasts better than smoke so you know it will be your file that removes the mark.
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Re: schlage key cutting

Postby jimb » 15 Jun 2007 20:52

Rodfather23 wrote: I took the plug out of the lock and looked at the bottom pins with the original 1st then the duplicated and the pins seemed to be at about the same level.

Could the problem be that the key is suppose to have triangle cuts and not round? Should i just try using the triangle file?


The tolerances on the Schlage are pretty tight. You say they are about the same height, on a Schlage they will have to be near perfect. A Kwikset would be a better lock for you to try this on as you have more room for error.

If your pins are slightly below the top of the plug then you might want to start over. If they are slightly above the top of the plug then file until they are even.

The key will work with flat cuts, round cuts or triangular cuts as long as you have the slopes where the key will enter and can be removed. The only thing that matters is that the pins set even with the top of the plug when the key is inserted. The proper way would be to have a slight round cut a the bottom of each cut. I read your thread the other day and this is where the pippin file works the best, at the bottom of the cuts.
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Postby zeke79 » 15 Jun 2007 23:01

Schlages get sticky with about .005" off from spec either way. It will either be "clicky" if you cut too deep or "stiff" turning if you didnt cut deep enough.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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Postby CompFX » 15 Jun 2007 23:16

zeke79 wrote:It will either be "clicky" if you cut too deep or "stiff" turning if you didnt cut deep enough.


Thats the best tip I've read all day. I impressioned a key last weekend and it was not "perfect", but it worked. I couldn't figure out if I was to deep or not deep enough.

Thank you for the tidbit

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Postby Rodfather23 » 15 Jun 2007 23:41

ok well.......I guess I'll give up on cutting a key and impressioning my schlage for now. I guess I was getting ahead of myself. I'll get some blanks this week for my kwikset knock off I bought at big lots.


Gotta love big lots!
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Re: schlage key cutting

Postby WOT » 16 Jun 2007 4:16

It's almost as hard as Best even with depth and space keys to originate keys from.

From Schlage official specs,
Spacing tolerance is +/- 1/1000"
depth is no more than +3/1000", -0"
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impressioning

Postby raimundo » 16 Jun 2007 8:42

you say youve tried impressioning, well if your trying to copy a key, just cut down to before you rub any of the smoke off, and impress the last little bit, this will help with your understanding of impressioning and it will help you fit the key, you will know that you are near the correct depth and you will see the impressions, spacing can sometimes be off a bit, and the dings will show you this, also, as 79 said, if your too high, the key will turn stiff, and you will see dings in the high spots, if the key is tricky, as in it works with jiggleing, this is cut too low, if you have a cutter, you can put the cover of a matchbook around the lower blade of the key cut too low in the stylus jaw and cut a new one that is just .025" high, this will definately be a high key I think and a high key, you just read the impressions and follow it down,
The real tricky one is if a key has some spots too low, therefore tricky and some spots too high, therefore stiff, if this happens, cut the dings (impressions) for the high spots off and it may be a tricky key, 79 calls it clicky? Remember that what you know about impressioning is not just for making a key from nothing, it will also help in fitting a key that is almost right.
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Re: impressioning

Postby WOT » 16 Jun 2007 17:40

raimundo wrote:you say youve tried impressioning, well if your trying to copy a key, just cut down to before you rub any of the smoke off, and impress the last little bit, this will help with your understanding of impressioning and it will help you fit the key, you will know that you are near the correct depth and you will see the impressions, spacing can sometimes be off a bit, and the dings will show you this, also, as 79 said, if your too high, the key will turn stiff, and you will see dings in the high spots, if the key is tricky, as in it works with jiggleing, this is cut too low, if you have a cutter, you can put the cover of a matchbook around the lower blade of the key cut too low in the stylus jaw and cut a new one that is just .025" high, this will definately be a high key I think and a high key, you just read the impressions and follow it down,
The real tricky one is if a key has some spots too low, therefore tricky and some spots too high, therefore stiff, if this happens, cut the dings (impressions) for the high spots off and it may be a tricky key, 79 calls it clicky? Remember that what you know about impressioning is not just for making a key from nothing, it will also help in fitting a key that is almost right.


To help with spacing, Use a caliper to measure out the position of each pin. lightly scratch the blank with the caliper. Hold one jaw against the shoulder, then use the other jaw to inscribe. Obviously, don't do this with a Mitutoyo. Use your cheap Harbor Freight caliper.

Or... use a code machine to cut a 0 0 0 0 0 0 key.
This will ensure your impressioned key is precisely aligned spacing wise.
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