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suggested solder

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

suggested solder

Postby kspec » 16 Jun 2007 16:39

Ive read khaotics guide and have not been able to find the type of solder her uses at any of the hardware shops ive checked. there is a few other kinds ive found in the plumbers section. from lead free, lead, and one with flux in it. there is also different grades like 30/70, 40/60, 50/50 but the person at the store did not know the difference....any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advanced.
when is a door not a door??? when its ajar
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Postby Eyes_Only » 16 Jun 2007 16:42

This Sticky on how to build your own featherweight tensioner has something about that in it. viewtopic.php?t=19285
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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Postby kspec » 16 Jun 2007 17:03

I have not been able to find this type of solder. the closest i found was one that has acid flux in it. I just wanted to make sure its the right stuff before i waste me money on it. thanks for the link. :)
when is a door not a door??? when its ajar
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Postby CompFX » 16 Jun 2007 17:47

The 30/70 40/60 50/50 are referring to the Tin/Lead content.

70/30 is strong, but over time and exposure will be subdued by the elements.
30/70 is not as strong, but will last longer in the elements.

50/50 is the most common solder on the shelf.

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Postby kspec » 16 Jun 2007 18:04

thanks alot compfx! I assume I will need to use some flux on the 2 pieces im trying to put together.
when is a door not a door??? when its ajar
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Postby CompFX » 16 Jun 2007 20:34

I am not a solder expert. So someone correct me if I am wrong; or buy me another beer if I am right ;)

You do not need to flux the metals if you are using an acid core solder. Flux is a non acidic cleaner for materials that cannot handle the acid. So if you are using acid, there should be no need to use flux.

So basically, if you are going to solder on say a PC board, you would use the flux core solder, as acid would destroy the board. If you are going to solder bristles together, then you would use the acid core solder.

--------------------

I followed that link above and seen in the picture that the tube says Lead Free acid core solder. So I think that the solder being used is like 97% Tin and 3% silver. The government thinks that soldering the 30/70 (Tin/Lead) is going to kill people because of lead poisoning. In short the stuff in the picture is called Silver Solder. I think you can get that stuff at craft stores.



Good luck with your project

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Postby kspec » 16 Jun 2007 20:52

well the solder that i saw with 70/30 didnt have flux/acid. it was another one. but i will be looking again next time i go. thanks again for the info.
when is a door not a door??? when its ajar
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Postby Shrub » 16 Jun 2007 21:38

I have no idea what you are on about as i dont know that user and if i did maybe he has more than one guide so a link to what your talking about or even better still post on the actual thread your talking about instead of making a new one would have been a lot better,


That said it seems your having trouble soldering somthing to somthing, maybe bristles as thats been mentioned,

Take a look at This thread as it should be of some help even if not totally the exact process your wanting to do,

Basics of any soldering is 'Clenlyness is next to Godlyness' meaning everything must be clean and free from dirt and especially oil and that includes the oil coming off your fingers, clean the items and then put them down,

Flux is a must, flux basically keeps the joins clean when making the joint, without flux the oxidisation coming off the material leaves a residue behind that makes the joint dirty and you will be forever trying to make the joint and the longer you try the hotter the piece becomes and the more dirt is introduced to the joint through the burning of the material,

If you really have to use an iron to solder bits together because you cant get a gas torch then you are limited to the types of solder you can use, the higher melting point solders (also the stronger ones) can not be used simply because the irons dont get hot enough,
You should be useing a big iron, the tip should be clean and tinned and make sure its up to tempreture before useing it,

The solders with the higher lead contents are the softer lower melting pint ones, the ones with a higher silver content tend to be the harder ones that need a torch to work with properly,

Stay away from electricians solder for making mechanical joints, it has the wrong properties and is unsuitable for most applications, plumbers solder is also a very weak and soft solder but with careful useage semi structual joints can be made,

Do not get solder with a flux core for making mechanical joints, the flux is the wrong type for the materials you will be useing as its meant for copper, silver or gold and not tin, nickel or zinc etc,
A separate flux should always be favoured as it keeps the joint clean and can be controlled without adding more solder,

Make sure your work is hot enough to take the solder before applying it, the aim of soldering is to get the area uniformly heated to the point where a careful introduction of the solder will, through capilleraly (sp?) action, flood the joint with an even layer of material provideing the best possable joint with the materials used,

I know its by no means exchaustive but its just a handful of tips that may help you along the way, without knowing exactlly what it is your making its hard to give any more definate advice,

P.s, All flux is corrosive, do not get it on your clothes,
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Postby kspec » 16 Jun 2007 21:48

thanks for the tips shrub, the link where i got the idea to join more then one peice of metal together is here

viewtopic.php?t=17220

this is not the item i was planing on making, but it uses the same principle. i was thinking more for like handles, for picks, plug spinners, and eventually a dual sided torque wrench like the article.

it was just when i went to get some solder, there was several types and the person there was of no help. so i came back to you guys for advice :)

i have a propane torch and a small(but hot) butane torch. so for me to use higher melting point solders is of no problem to me. it was just to make sure that the should i get will be strong enough to keep the joint(s) together.

once i am able to do this, I am sure I will be making another pick set, or two to show. now only if i can get my usb ports to work on this POS cpu lol.

thanks again for all the info and tips
when is a door not a door??? when its ajar
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Postby Shrub » 16 Jun 2007 21:50

In that case go for silver solder or brazeing rod,

Follow the link i gave an have a read up on that guide,

You wont go wrong with silver solder :wink:

Use the powdered flux and mix it with a little CLEAN water,
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Postby kspec » 16 Jun 2007 21:56

thanks, just to clarify. I have done some welding, from stick, oxy acetlyne, and brazing. I just never thought that i could apply any of the rods from it to use with my propane torch. i didnt think it would get hot enough. I will read that article(I am now :) ) and I will make sure once i get at least one usb port working , i will post my progress.
when is a door not a door??? when its ajar
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Postby Shrub » 16 Jun 2007 21:59

If youve done brazing then you dont need ask any further, grab some silver solder easy flow and see how nicely it flows compared to brazing rod,

Same process same techniques just less heat as its smaller work,
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Postby kspec » 16 Jun 2007 22:00

nice! sounds like a plan :)
when is a door not a door??? when its ajar
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Postby Shrub » 16 Jun 2007 22:01

Use propane though as acetalene is far too dirty for soldering and you will never get a decent joint with it,
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Postby CompFX » 16 Jun 2007 22:04

Shrub, thanks for the link and info. Sounds like I have a misunderstand for the use of flux.

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