Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by devnill » 29 Jun 2007 19:52
I work at home depot in hardware, and by the key duplicators there are these "Masterlock 5up padlocks" They seem to be a pretty straight forward padlock except for one thing; they have no keys. Its seems pretty obvious by the packaging that they are made to be keyed alike with other 4 pin masterlocks, but i cannot figure out how to do it. the core is a little loose, and seems to be popping out, so it would make sense that it would have to be pushed in to "activate" the lock, but neither i or anyone else who can rekey locks in the store has any idea how to do it.
Any ideas?
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devnill
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by Shrub » 29 Jun 2007 20:10
Im not familier with the lock but i can make a grab out of air guess at a possable solution?
Maybe you insert the key you want to use and then push the plug in which in turn will break off somthing inside which keys it,
Ill have a quick look on the net for the locks to see if i can work it out,
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by Shrub » 29 Jun 2007 20:16
Ive had a quick look on their site but didnt see any promotional bumpf that might show you the workings of the locks,
What i did see that i thought was funny was that if you loose your combo for a combo lock you can request your number if you provide proof of ownership,
Fair enough, great service then it goes on to say that codes take 6 - 8 weeks to arive after they have recieved your details lol
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by mcm757207 » 29 Jun 2007 20:46
They are a standard 4-pin master lock, except each pin stack is one large pin rather than a bottom and a top, and it is serrated with one serration at each possible depth. You insert the key you want it keyed to, and by punching the cylinder in it shears all of the pins in half at the shear line, leaving you with a working padlock. I use a punch that has a slot cut out of it for the key- you absolutely don't want to hammer on the key because it does take quite a bit to shear those pins. Also you want to make sure you're using a fairly clean-cut key because if it's too warn it won't shear right. They are kinda a pain in the @$$ is you ask me.
You would also think that these serrations would hinder picking, but in my experience they do little for that and they are actually fairly easy to pick. I certainly wouldn't want to impression a key for one though.
I hope I'm clear... it's kinda hard to explain. UP stands for Universal Pin.
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by Shrub » 29 Jun 2007 20:53
Ah yes i remember it now, its all those little bits and where they go you have to think about as well i guess,
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by cjames73 » 29 Jun 2007 21:12
this pic shows how the system works,

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by n2oah » 30 Jun 2007 1:02
It stands for: Easily the worst keying system ever conceived. 
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by zeke79 » 30 Jun 2007 3:10
n2oah wrote:It stands for: Easily the worst keying system ever conceived. 
Until you dont hit the key square and they do not work right after that  .
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by linty » 30 Jun 2007 7:04
you're not supposed to hit the key at all. You have to use a "U" shaped punch that hits the plug on both sides of the key.
I hate these things, the plug is always loose and they are almost invariably "clicky". Terrible idea.
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by nothumbs » 1 Jul 2007 14:14
I have one of these locks and noticed that the cylinder does move up and down in the lock. Based on what's just been discussed, I would assume you want the cylinder in the up (towards the shackle) position when you pick it. Is that correct?
Would the lock be pickable in the down position?
Does it matter?
It's a good day when I learn something new.
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