A skill known and practiced for years by seasoned locksmiths, impressioning a working key from a blank is a popular new addition in locksport circles everywhere. Get your blanks and Pippin files and get busy!
by globallockytoo » 13 Feb 2007 14:13
A video of some guy in a workshop impressioning a euro cylinder from a distance, where you cant learn anything.
It might be useful if you want to know how to set up your bench.
Under the right conditions and with the same tools, impressioning should take no longer than 5 minutes...like it did.
But, real locksmiths will be able to impression in difficult conditions...like impressioning an ignition lock in the snow in the middle of the night. This is real skill.
Besides, On site, you dont have access to a lighted magnifying glass.
during daylight conditions on a locked door, with one keyblank, vice grips and an impression file....that is real locksmithing.....not this rubbish! 
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by Varjeal » 13 Feb 2007 14:31
Ray, as usual, is correct about the breaking off factor, and it really should have been addressed in the orginal description. It is very easy to crack or twist a key if you are not paying attention. Keep an eye on the area right in front of the shoulder. If it cracks or twists significantly and your confident with your progress, go ahead and duplicate it onto a fresh blank. If not, start over again.
*insert witty comment here*
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by hippy5749 » 18 Feb 2007 2:38
Don't mean to step on toes or anything, but why is the impression gun thread in advanced section?
viewtopic.php?t=10094&highlight=impressioning+clamp
I found it in a post by Chrispy ( viewtopic.php?t=10099 ) and this seemed to be the place to ask?
If we can get a detailed "how-to" on impressioning, why not the gun?
Again if I am angering anyone by asking, I'm Sorry...
But still curious.....
Thank you,
hippy5749
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by hippy5749 » 19 Feb 2007 2:03
globallockytoo,
I'm NOT Disagreeing with what past moderators or admins did, because I don't know their reasoning for making the thread in the advanced section.
I just wanted to know why.
It may very well be that the OP of the impressioning gun thread put it there in the first place, even though the info shouldn't be restricted.
Could be that the techniques WERE restricted at that time, but are not now.
If so, then please move the thread to where everyone can see it.
I assume it must be very informative, otherwise Chrispy wouldn't have put it in with the other links.
I try not to use names in here, it doesn't do anyone any good....
If the smileys mean you were joking, then my apologies.
I just don't want any incident tied to me because of anything I brought up....
Thanks,
hippy5749
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by Shrub » 19 Feb 2007 9:35
Hippy, the tool you mention was posted by the original poster in the advanced sections and thats where he wanted it,
Regardless of what some people think, the sites admin and mods do their best to follow the rules of site and the rules on running the site, members wishes are the most important to the site and they are the first considered before any action of any sort is taken,
If a member shows maturity then its likely they will get into the advanced section if the post count and join date fit in with the rules,
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by zeke79 » 19 Feb 2007 10:58
Shrub answered the question globallockytoo. Watch the name calling....
In the future, if you do not have something constructive to add please keep your fingers off the keyboard.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by hippy5749 » 19 Feb 2007 11:40
I figured it was something like that, but it never hurts to ask......
Right now I am going through all the old posts on the site (that's how I found the link to the impressioning tool.)
I figure when I am done with that, I will be ready to move into advanced
We'll see.......
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by raimundo » 19 Feb 2007 13:03
what got G loki 2 going, did someone piss in his cheerios?
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by quicksilver » 21 May 2007 14:53
I have done a bit of impressioning and found somethings that work for me (I will continually use "I" statements as I know it won't be applicable to everyone). Most of my stuff is commercial pin tumblers & padlocks.
I use a knife edge with a single pass of an exceedingly fine pipen so my background is the same from day to day. Thus I have a angle that terminates in a flat edge with actual clean file lines delineating the marks.
I invested in quite a few magnification devices as (IMO) seeing the spot is basically the most important thing initially. A jeweler's loop worked quite well for a time but I found a small hand held "microscope" (30x) from Germany that is what I still use. It can find what I thought was not there with a 10x loop. This "focus on magnification" (pun intended) has been a serious help to me.
I personally found that the use of vise grips is not as effective as a impressioning tool made by Framon. The tool allows a 360 degree hold with absolutely no slippage. Thus I am able to push straight up, and make a slight two o'clock & ten o'clock push. This has made some marks that were quite vivid where none had been previously.
I also don't use a triangle file to begin because the spot (impression) can get lost in a sharp "V". Instead I use either a square file turned sideways which allows a wide "V" or a very small round. Better to see the spot, etc. & when I file I use one stroke in one direction (same issue) clean lines. This whole issue of seeing the spot is perhaps the most important issue that I personally have worked with.
Just me, but I don't consider using impressioning on vehicles. The guy who taught me was quite good and he sent an ignition to heaven doing it.....so I learned. I also believe that putting some money into very fine quality files, quality magnification, a good grip-tool and even a small hand-held quality vise is not lost. A small steel block vise is nice if you can relax and use that for each stroke. The effort is measured by setting up the vise instead of holding the key.
I have thought about this for some time now and I think that perhaps a softer key may not be such a bad idea. If a key were annealed it may be fine. Any softer and it might break but I don't know if it need be as hard as a commercial key. If you are really yanking on that thing I doubt that the impressions will be much deeper than if you use a 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock "bounce". It's fairly easy to destroy a lock with mad-man impressioning technique.
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by Shrub » 22 May 2007 7:42
Oli's book has now been translated to English 
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by blake1803 » 24 May 2007 0:32
Shrub that is excellent news!  Do you know anything about its availability? I took a look at his website again and I still only see the German edition..
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by poppasmurfenfold » 24 Jul 2007 21:12
cant you just use a dremmel instead of a file would that work
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by Shrub » 25 Jul 2007 5:49
The book is in english but not on the website,
If you can get more luck out of Olly than i can then grab me a book as ive been trieing to order one since i mentioned it and he takes weeks to reply to emails, its a shame as i know loads of people after it with money weaiting but he just doesnt reply after a while, im still waiting to find out where to send the money
No you cant use a dremel, if you re-read the thread and take it in you will understand why,
The reason is the most findemental point of impressioning so im not gogin to let you cheat by teling you now as otherwise you wont learn,
Re-read it and come back to say why you think you cant use a dremel and ill tell you if your right, if i tell you now you wont re-read and youll miss the point,
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