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by questions » 25 Jul 2007 16:27
just curious if there is a curtain brand people go with for brass keys to impression.
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by questions » 25 Jul 2007 16:30
not curtain, certain
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by pelham123 » 25 Jul 2007 16:38
No particular brand ; just make sure you "blade" the key before you "bump" it. That is take your file and scrape off the coating before your first impression attempt. This will allow a better initial marking. Very important for quick success.
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by questions » 25 Jul 2007 17:08
i've impressioned two basic masterlocks but im having a hard time seeing marks with an old number one master. I've read that the impressions will be messed up with loose cylinder master locks cause the last laminate will stop you from moving up and down. i cleaned the lock with brake cleaner and picked it open and it seems real ruff turning it. i dont know if the brake cleaner cleaned to much or this lock is just to worn. Well i will try again by shaving some brass of the shoulder once i get my pin positions filed in.
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by Kaotik » 25 Jul 2007 17:08
pelham123 wrote:No particular brand ; just make sure you "blade" the key before you "bump" it. That is take your file and scrape off the coating before your first impression attempt. This will allow a better initial marking. Very important for quick success.
I think you are a little mixed up. Bumping is not involved in impressioning. However, knife edging the key blade is, but it is not only filing the nickel plating off the blade.
One would need to take care with filing the nickel plating off or even filing an already brass key for preparation as some biting depths are close to the original size of the key. Lightly filing is the best option, just to make a uniform pattern so other marks will be easier to see.
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by questions » 25 Jul 2007 17:11
I had keysman personally show me how to knife edge it and i have no problem getting started it just seems like this lock doesnt give me the same signs as the other master locks. I guess all locks are different even if its the same make, or could a lock with stiff pins give bad results also like the one im working with
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by Eyes_Only » 25 Jul 2007 18:43
I think stiff pins would help in making a mark or indentation on the key blank opposed to a pin stack that moves in its chamber too smoothly even after you place enough torque with the blank to apply binding pressure on the pin stacks.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by freakparade3 » 25 Jul 2007 19:44
Kaotik wrote:pelham123 wrote:No particular brand ; just make sure you "blade" the key before you "bump" it. That is take your file and scrape off the coating before your first impression attempt. This will allow a better initial marking. Very important for quick success.
I think you are a little mixed up. Bumping is not involved in impressioning. However, knife edging the key blade is, but it is not only filing the nickel plating off the blade.
I read somewhere that some locksmiths actually do "bump" the blank to make marks for impressioning, I've never tried it personally, but it is done.
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by questions » 25 Jul 2007 19:57
bumping as in when people tap the key up and down while appling tension? I read on that too but never seen before. The only way i have seen with my eyes in wiggling it up and down. i tried the pull out and in method but i dont know what im doing and the key is not moving at all in the plug
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by freakparade3 » 25 Jul 2007 20:27
questions wrote:bumping as in when people tap the key up and down while appling tension? I read on that too but never seen before. The only way i have seen with my eyes in wiggling it up and down. i tried the pull out and in method but i dont know what im doing and the key is not moving at all in the plug
Yes, that is what I mean. For the life of me I can't remember where i read it. Mabye some of the more experienced locksmiths here can shed more light on this method of marking the blank.
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by questions » 25 Jul 2007 20:47
i read it on a pdf on "impressioning for the amateur locksmiths" but i would like more detailed info from others who actually use this method or others excluding the usual wiggling up and down.
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by Kaotik » 26 Jul 2007 1:56
freakparade3 wrote:Kaotik wrote:pelham123 wrote:No particular brand ; just make sure you "blade" the key before you "bump" it. That is take your file and scrape off the coating before your first impression attempt. This will allow a better initial marking. Very important for quick success.
I think you are a little mixed up. Bumping is not involved in impressioning. However, knife edging the key blade is, but it is not only filing the nickel plating off the blade.
I read somewhere that some locksmiths actually do "bump" the blank to make marks for impressioning, I've never tried it personally, but it is done.
I just read that not to long ago, it was in an impressioning manual. I thought I would look more into it and see for myself.
You are right, there is such a thing as bump in impressioning (tapping the bow of the key) as well as about 2 other ways. The OP didn't say anything about using a specific technique to impression so when I seen bump in Pelham123's post, I misunderstood.
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by Shrub » 26 Jul 2007 6:03
Questions, theres a massive thread on impressioning HERE its a good read,
Ive tried and use many ways of impressioning but im no expert at it needing much more practice myself,
You can insert the key and bump it like a bump key but it doesnt do much on pin locks,
You can insert the key and wiggle it up and down and rotate side to side,
You can insert to the lock and put tension on then with a special tol slightly pull the key out a little,
There are loads of tricks like brushing the blank and knife-edgeing but really there are all explained in the thread ive linked you to,
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by questions » 26 Jul 2007 16:48
thanks. I've read it and it's pretty much the more hands on i get now the better i will get. Just got back from a ace hardware out here in vegas and they dont have any brass m1 blanks. So im off to order or find some
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by blake1803 » 26 Jul 2007 19:43
www.lockpicks.com actually has decent prices on some of the more common keys. A box of 50 brass M1 blanks will run you $8.50 plus shipping.
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