European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.
by zeke79 » 6 Oct 2007 20:11
The SCD is a very tough lock to pick for beginner and experience pickers alike. There are some very tough pins in there along with counter bored pin chambers in the plug that lock up with the special top pins. Check out Han Fey's cutaway article one. The 7 pin assa cutaway shown there is an SCD model. You will see that this is not a lock for the faint of heart. I have a lock that has the actual pins and keys shown in that article. It is in an assa ruko 2 padlock. Very evil locks they are.
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by bluestar » 7 Oct 2007 3:02
Uh-oh  The Assa 7-pin is, in my opinion, one of the sneakiest pin-only-locks ever produced. Almost any pin-only lock out there on the market is easier to pick (There are some few models from DOM I would put in the same class, but apart from that...).
Picking will be, even if you are at a very high skill level, a very frustrating and time-consuming experience. It can be done, but if you haven't got years of experience and are on an absolute pro level, you will have very little chance to open them. Definitely not a lock for a beginner (read: <2 years of experience).
By the way, SCD only describes the drill protection (afaik), the cylinder itself is just an "Assa 700" resp. in oval housing, 701.
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by Jaakko » 7 Oct 2007 3:49
bluestar wrote:By the way, SCD only describes the drill protection (afaik), the cylinder itself is just an "Assa 700" resp. in oval housing, 701.
Yep, I'm thinking it was "Säkerhet Cylinder Borskryddad" in swedish and the SCD was the english version of it.
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by cuda00 » 7 Oct 2007 5:14
Ok , cause the biggest problem im having is really the keyway. It is only barely that i am abled to fit my southord slimline hook thruu the sidewards and get the pins in the back, setting 1-2 pins atm isnt hard. That part comes a bit further out when the wards for the key start getting really tight to get thruu, which is what i was looking for plan of attack that doesnt invole raking.
And while i´m not a pro picker i manage the other assa on the pic in just under 2 min depending on circumstances and that one is pinned with alot of security pins... gonna se if i can find a pic somewhere
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by illusion » 7 Oct 2007 11:27
"Gotenborg's Rape" Hehehe... I'm sorry, I am immature soemtimes.
I haven't tried this lock, but the counter bored plugs are always very hard. The was that Ruko cylinder that honestly made me break down due to the difficulty involved in opening it. I hadn't ever tried a counter bored pluig, and didn't really know what I was up against. When I finaly opened it I couldn't believe how evil the lock was lol.
Good luck with it... Light tension is your friend i guess.

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by cuda00 » 7 Oct 2007 12:44
no worrys about the immaturity, we all have it in us
but yea il try a lighter touch on the tension , even tho i feel as im barely touching it 
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by bluestar » 8 Oct 2007 4:25
Speaking of light tension - sometimes I had success at picking ASSAs by using no tension at all or even turning back the plug a little "by hand".
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by cuda00 » 8 Oct 2007 13:11
yea i have another assa thats basically the same, no tension needed at all 
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by Wizer » 5 Sep 2009 8:08
I bought three of these just a week ago. No luck getting these open, i´m just a beginner. Took it apart,and I noticed something I haven´t heard of, or seen mentioned here. Sure enough it had some security pins in it, but the two "normal" pins looked a little odd, and after closer investgation I found that they have MAGNETS inside pins. I suppose this could be a bump-perventing feature, and won´t make raking any easier. I will post picture to "List of security pins in locks"-thread once I get to my camera. Any other locks with magnets in pins? ..just thought I want to share this. -Wizer
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by Wizer » 7 Sep 2009 2:35
Now I have found that the drillprotection is not just a couple of hardened steelpins to break your drill bit, but there is actually two extra pins that lock the plug in place if a key or a blank is not in plug when turning. I took the lid off and got the pins out. The plug turned about 45 degrees and locked. There is a pin stack parallel to keyway on both sides just above the plug, this pin pushes another single pin towards the plug, and at 45 degrees the pin falls to plug, jamming it. I got it working again, but without pictures its hard to explain how. (I tried to take photos, but parts are too small and in dark holes). So if anyone has pictures or drawings of this lock I would appreciate if you posted here!
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Wizer
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by Wizer » 7 Sep 2009 6:04
...mmm Just having a key in the lock does not pervent plug from jamming, I figured, that it needs a keypin in last chamber, and maybe it would not jam... -WRONG! Now the key is in the lock, cannot reset it the way I did it before- the key is in way. I´m pretty sure that´s it for this lock and key, but if anyone has any suggestions how to unlock it please help!! Fortunately this is just one of three locks I have, and I can make more keys. How about that assa training, I wonder if it´s expencive... 
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by l0ckp1cker » 9 Sep 2009 7:55
I had a few locks locked up like this as well, but rapping it fixed the problem. I have no clue how to explain rapping, but I'm sure some native english speaking people can help you with that. It a sort bumping without the bump key 
07JAN2017: - Back on the board again 
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by Wizer » 9 Sep 2009 8:05
There was pinstacks that locked those additional pins in the plug. I had to "pick" those stacks and hold shearline open with a small screwdriver, then pick the pin in the plug. When the key stuck in lock, couldnot do this anymore, so I dremmelled a little and got all pins out. Now the lock is "working" again, and I´m doing digital blues exercise on this lock, as I originally planned. Happy end! ...If you are ever about to pick one of these locks, beaware of this. I don´t know how to make it not set.
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by locklearner » 11 Oct 2009 7:15
This is an example of how a ASSA SCD locks inside. As you can see the SCD has a steel bolt on the side between the 2-3 pin and on the other side between the 3-4 pin. When you have picked the lock you must turn it so much that the top pins gets past the hole where the drill protection steel pin is placed before you start pulling it out. I think the jamming problem on this locks are even bigger when it`s not a SCD lock because the holes in the innersylinder is still there but the steel bolts (drilling protection) are missing. This makes it possible for the top pins to get stuck even further down into this side holes in the inner sylinder. I ended up drilling out the plug on the outer sylinder so I got out the spring and the top pin from the hole. Then I put in a 4 mm (about 0,16 inches) screw to replace the plug. Then I also have the possibility to easily change the pin settings and number of pins in the lock when I work on it. [image too large- deleted. 640x480 or external link please -unlisted]
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