taking apart a master #3

by **poor paperclip picker** » 23 Oct 2007 16:51

I was wondering if anyone has any advice on taking apart a master #3. I have picked it many times, and now I would like to take it apart and kinda learn hands on how it works and all the components in it. So if anyone has any ideas how to take the cylinder out that would be appreciated.

Thanks

by **UWSDWF** » 23 Oct 2007 16:59

I have done this.... you need to destroy it FYI

Grind off the rivets on the bottom and then pull it apart laminate by laminate

by **poor paperclip picker** » 23 Oct 2007 17:52

I know you need to destroy it. I do not have access to a grinder though, but the rivets are the key to taking it apart. Thats what I thought, maybe I will try shearing them off.
Thanks.
And if anyone else has any more ideas of getting the rivets off with out a grinder that would be a great deal of help.

by **UWSDWF** » 23 Oct 2007 18:06

try a hammer and chisel

by **poor paperclip picker** » 23 Oct 2007 18:41

do you think that drilling out the rivets will work??

by **Kaotik** » 23 Oct 2007 18:47

poor paperclip picker wrote:do you think that drilling out the rivets will work??

Drilling them could work, providing you center punched the rivet(s) before drilling so the bit doesn't walk around.

by **Gordon Airporte** » 23 Oct 2007 19:32

Or use a hacksaw.

by **Eyes_Only** » 23 Oct 2007 19:40

Why not file it down? Thats how we remove some of the rivets holding the face caps on Toyota ignitions at work.

by **poor paperclip picker** » 23 Oct 2007 20:00

I was trying filing, but the only files I currently have are the ones on a leatherman. It is a slow process but it looks like that is the only option I have right now, unless drilling them out will work.

by **mrdan** » 23 Oct 2007 20:14

punch the rivets in centers and then drill with hard and steady preassure (best have the lock in a vise so you don't drill your hands and or legs) (I nailed my hand once with a 3/8" bit from being stupid and not thinking before I drilled) :oops:

Any ways, once you do finally get the rivets done, you will have a time trying to separate the layers. I had to use a hammer with a screw driver and chisel to drive between the laminate layers. then the cylinder will just fall out once you've removed about 3 or 4 layers.

by **Wrenchman** » 23 Oct 2007 20:58

I've never had a ML3 so pls excuse me, but...

Doesn't a Master Lock #3 have a retainer pin?

Now if it does, all you have to do is drill a hole on top of the retainer and then take it out, then pick the lock(or use the key) and then pull out the plug!

Wrenchman

by **mcm757207** » 23 Oct 2007 21:06

You don't need to destroy it. If you are careful griding off the tips of the rivets, you can pry off the top plate and the very first 'plate.' After your done with whatever you want with the cylinder, you can put the top plate back over the rivets (leave out the first 'plate'), and peen over the rivets.

by **poor paperclip picker** » 23 Oct 2007 21:15

Wrenchman wrote:Doesn't a Master Lock #3 have a retainer pin?

Now if it does, all you have to do is drill a hole on top of the retainer and then take it out, then pick the lock(or use the key) and then pull out the plug!

This is a really rookie question but, where would this retainer pin be located at??

by **mcm757207** » 23 Oct 2007 21:32

A master #3 doesn't have any kind of retaining pin.

by **poor paperclip picker** » 23 Oct 2007 21:33

thanks guys for all the advice i am currently trying the filing technique, I have one rivet almost all the filed down, but I still can't get the rivet to break free.

taking apart a master #3

taking apart a master #3

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