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taking apart a master #3

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Postby criminalhate » 23 Oct 2007 22:53

You should go buy a small bastard file they're about $5 or less from most hardware stores and it will make short work of those rivets.
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Postby mcm757207 » 24 Oct 2007 0:01

Take off all the rivets, and then start to pry at it. It takes quite a bit of force to pry it off, it'll bend like heck too. It doesn't just fall off once the head of the rivet is gone. You really have to get under it with a screwdriver and pry at it.
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Postby UWSDWF » 24 Oct 2007 4:25

be a man buy a gerber
Image
DISCLAIMER:repeating anything written in the above post may result in dismemberment,arrest,drug and/or alcohol use,scars,injury,death, and midget obsession.
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Postby Wrenchman » 24 Oct 2007 7:28

mcm151201 wrote:A master #3 doesn't have any kind of retaining pin.

Ok then, I have another idea, drill 5 holes on the top of the lock, where the chambers are! You can now repin it, just as much as you like!

Now make the remaining holes into screwholes(don't know the right term), with that special tool, I think 2-3mm would be good, and your done!

Or, if you're interested in repining often, you can wrap it up with electrical tape(the thin one) or duck tape!

Kaotik wrote:Drilling them could work, providing you center punched the rivet(s) before drilling so the bit doesn't walk around.

Good advice!

:D

Wrenchman
Before you pick a lock:
The first thing that you should do is check to make sure that
the lock is your's and secondly make sure its not in use.
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 24 Oct 2007 7:30

UWSDWF wrote:be a man buy a gerber


I do have a gerber also :D
Image
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Postby josh0094 » 24 Oct 2007 11:50

try using a drill press when it comes to theese sorts of things.
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Postby mcm757207 » 24 Oct 2007 16:15

Drilling holes will not work well at all... just grind the rivets off and remove the plug, and disassemble like any normal master cylinder.
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 24 Oct 2007 17:30

Is there any certain method when I file? I have one rivet filed down so it is pretty much flush with the plate. I can't seem to get the rivet broke free though. Any advice will help.

Thanks
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Postby mcm757207 » 24 Oct 2007 17:35

The rivets do not 'break free,' they run the entire length of the lock. After you get as much off the heads of them as possible start to pry away the top plate that holds the cylinder inside off- then the cylinder will come out easily. When you want to put it back together, remove the second plate permanently and put the top 'plate' in its place, then peen the rivets back with a hammer.
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Postby criminalhate » 24 Oct 2007 19:48

criminalhate wrote:You should go buy a small dog file they're about $5 or less from most hardware stores and it will make short work of those rivets.



darn word sensor thats a b*a*s*t*a*r*d file not a dog file
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 24 Oct 2007 20:48

ok so once I file down all 4 of the rivet heads, pry the plate and it should come off?? Sounds good I will continue to file the remaining 2 1/2 rivet heads and then try to pry.

Thanks for the advice
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Postby Bittersweet » 24 Oct 2007 21:09

The plate will come off, but when I last tried this I needed a hammer and nail set to remove the bottom plates. It may have been a case of me not removing the rivets completely with the file, but if I remember correctly all the plates were stuck in places rather well. If you want to keep the lock in "working" condition, file well, and be careful not to bend the plates as you take them off.
Parsley!
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Postby mcm757207 » 24 Oct 2007 21:34

You only need to remove two plates, the top one that holds the cylinder in place and the one below that one. And you will undoubtedly bend it, but you can just stick it in a vice and bend it back.
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 1 Jan 2008 16:02

mcm151201 wrote:You only need to remove two plates, the top one that holds the cylinder in place and the one below that one.


Why do you need to remove the second plate? Does it give access to more of the components? I just removed the first plate and took out the cylinder ( I finally got access to a bench grinder :D ) So as of now I am just going to study this lock and learn more of the mechanics of it.

Thanks everyone for your help!
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Postby poor paperclip picker » 1 Jan 2008 16:13

Oh I forgot to mention, that I am thinking about making a how to guide for disassembling a masterlock #3. I will look through this site to see if someone already did this, or if any of you out there know of one please let me know.

Thanks
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