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by rwp42 » 2 Nov 2007 23:42
If I get the LAB 0.003-increment super wedge, would I also need to get specific pinning kits for:
+ Schlage, Kwikset, Arrow, Weiser locks? (I'm guessing 'no')
+ IC locks?
+ SFIC locks? (are these different from "IC"?)
+ Master Padlocks?
+ Automotive Pin-Tumbler Locks (e.g.: Chrysler/Ford)?
Or are all of the above based on the same 0.115" diameter standard?
Another way to ask is: what else would I need to handle general pinning requirements?
I was already planning on supplementing with a LAB Security Pin Kit and an Ilco Wafer Rekeying Kit.
Related Question: Is the above wafer rekeying kit suitable for use with automotive wafer locks, or do you need to purchase the mfg-specific key (e.g.: GM 10-cut wafer kit, etc...)?
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by linty » 3 Nov 2007 7:13
i don't do much work with IC but I believe you'll need specific kits for that work.
However I can tell you for sure that you'll need separate kits for chrysler, ford, and master padlocks as they are all undersized diameter pins.
You'll be able to do all standard pin tumblers though (schlage, kwikset, arrow, etc.)
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by MBI » 3 Nov 2007 11:20
Ditto to what Linty said; with a Wedge kit you’ll be covered for regular locks, but automotive locks and padlocks will require specialized kits. Also, if you want to get into IC core you’ll need an IC .108†pin kit and some specialized equipment like a capping press and a loading block. There’s SFIC (Small Format) and LFIC (Large format) interchangeable cores. I’m afraid I can’t help you with specific advice on IC stuff as I’ve never had the need to get into it, and the investment in equipment is just a bit too high for me to buy it for academic reasons. At least so far anyways, although with my curiosity and a compulsive need to buy new tools I will probably get into it someday.
For regular lock pinning, don’t forget a couple of long screwdrivers (a flathead and a #2 Phillips for removing locksets), some pin tweezers, cylinder cap removal tools, retaining ring pliers, key gauges, and a follower set. Some manufacturers also have specialized tools to make it easier to remove their cores, for example Kwikset makes a cylinder removal tool that only costs about a dollar but really makes disassembling their crummy KIKs a lot easier. A pinning block or work mat is really handy to contain all the little bits and pieces after you take everything apart. I also keep a small, spare pick set and curved shims with my re-pinning tools for when I need to do a lock and the key is lost. Spare plug retaining rings are also a good idea. I’ve only lost one once when re-pinning a lock, but an assortment of spare rings would have paid for itself twice over just from that one instance.
The only thing I regret about buying my Lab .003 Wedge was not buying the one with the built-in drawer underneath. It’s not strictly necessary, but sometimes it would be handy to have my pins and pinning tools all together and only have to grab one box when I’m going to do some pinning.
Although it is a bit redundant, I also bought a Lab 3-in-1 kit when I saw one on sale really cheap once for only $20 USD. It’s a mini plastic box with the basic pins you’ll need for re-pinning Schlage, Kwikset and Weiser. At first I thought I would never use it but it’s turned out to be really handy for residential jobs when I just need to pin a small number of locks really quick and don’t want to lug around my Wedge, although the 3-in-1 kit won’t have the pins you’ll need if you’re doing any master keying. Probably my favorite thing about the 3-in-1 kit is how much it can calm my nerves. Bear with me here, I’m serious. I don’t have a big van to work inside during residential service calls, so I usually just pull up a chair and work at a table inside the house. Little kids are sooooo curious about what you’re up to and love to try to peer in as close as they can when you’re working. I haven’t had one dump my stuff yet, but if it ever does happen I’d rather it was a tiny 3-in-1 kit instead of a Wedge. I have nightmares where I watch helplessly in slow motion as my Wedge gets upended and thousands of pins and springs fly all over the room. I also have the Lab security pin kit, which is useful, but I was a bit disappointed when I discovered it didn’t have any serrated bottom pins because I’m a bit curious to try those.
If you’re going to be doing high security locks, you’ll also need specialized kits for some of the different brands: Medeco, ASSA, finger pins for sidebars…
Sorry for the long post, but I hope it’s helpful.
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by MBI » 3 Nov 2007 12:43
Ok, I guess my long post wasn’t long enough. I forgot your question about wafer locks.
I’ve never re-pinned an automotive lock but from the pictures I’ve seen of automotive lock wafers, I’m pretty sure that your Ilco wafer kit won’t work for them.
When I first needed to re-pin (re-wafer???) some wafer cam locks, I was told that they’re all pretty much universal and there was only one kind of kit. Turns out that wasn’t exactly the case. So far I’ve run across at least a half dozen different brands of wafers that are all similar to each other but are not compatible with each other, and I haven’t been able to find kits for three of them. In a pinch I’ve sometimes been able to modify wafers from other brands of locks using needle files, but considering the low cost of most cam locks it’s a method of last resort that I only use if replacing the lock isn’t an option for some reason.
Off the top of my head, here are some tools and spare parts you may need for cam locks: screwdrivers, regular pliers, channel lock pliers, 7/8†deep socket wrench, deep hook pick, small end cut nippers (they’re wire cutters but if you’re careful you can use them to remove stubborn wafers from the core without damaging them), needle files (both for modifying wafers and for touching up the threads on the body of the lock), spare ¾†hex nuts and lock washers, assorted spare cams and strike plates, mounting plates (so the lock doesn’t spin in the hole if the nut comes loose).
I don’t know why, but rekeying wafer locks kind of helps me chill out. I enjoy it; it’s very Zen. Or something.
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by linty » 3 Nov 2007 18:48
oops, didn't see that last part.
you'll need quite a few wafer kits for various automotive locks.
you can get combo kits which contain 4 or 5 sets of related wafers, often you'll need different wafers for door and ignition locks, etc.
my shop probably owns about 50 automotive wafer / pin kits and still find ourselves lacking the proper wafers once in a while.
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by rwp42 » 4 Nov 2007 0:06
Wow. No, seriously: Wow! Incredible thanks to linty and MBI for your incredibly detailed and thoughtful responses! This information is seriously helpful to me and is greatly appreciated.
For the moment, I'm going to get the Super Wedge in 0.003" increments (with the drawer -- good advice), a pinning block, and a rubber workmat. I might get the security set just to have some options there (bummer that it doesn't include serrated bottom pins). I'm going to pass on IC-specific kits and auto-specific kits for now until incoming work dictates that they are important (if ever).
I have the tool end completely covered... a previous passion of mine was collecting excellent quality tools (for example: Wiha).
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by elbarto » 16 Nov 2007 7:47
rwp42, Speaking of serrated pins have you managed to find anywhere that sells these on the net? I brought the LABs mini security kit which has a good range of spool and serrated top pins but I haven't been able to find any serrated bottom pins but would like to find a kit for security bottom pins aswell if it was possible.
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by rwp42 » 16 Nov 2007 11:12
Short answer: no. The only sources I have found so far include those that sell the LAB security mini set, and the Foley-Belsaw universal set that includes six sizes of spool pins (no serrated), and the LAB site itself that sells individual spool and serrated top pins. I'll let you know if I find anything else.
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by gotta » 18 Nov 2007 20:12
Oh, and don't forget the wonderful face cap kits for the auto locks that you have to peel the face caps from in order to rekey.  So much money to spend!
Don't believe everything you think.
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