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by brianmay27 » 30 Oct 2007 18:52
its a good lock. good enough there are two sets of screws. one of which is behind the backplate which you need to get the handel off. It is really made well. I am not at work but i will try to rembore to look at it tomorow
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brianmay27
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by brianmay27 » 30 Oct 2007 21:24
one last thing, so it is legal to obtane a blank key from a store?
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by mcm757207 » 30 Oct 2007 21:40
Well we don't know where you live, but I can't imagine it would be illegal anywhere.
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by brianmay27 » 30 Oct 2007 21:46
ok, just seems like it would be. but i will give it a wirl. Also i found a site impression a key lock and they say coat a key with soot and twist hard. How hard and if i can ask, what does it look like and how does it even work
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by freakparade3 » 31 Oct 2007 7:48
brianmay27 wrote:ok, just seems like it would be. but i will give it a wirl. Also i found a site impression a key lock and they say coat a key with soot and twist hard. How hard and if i can ask, what does it look like and how does it even work
Impressioning takes tons of practice before you are even slightly OK at it. Please do not try to impression your work lock, you will break it.
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by Afisch » 31 Oct 2007 13:56
I tried to buy a blank key from a lock and trophy store, this is what i got "Could I have a warded keyblank?" "a what?" "a keyblank (point at keys on wall)" then he went on to question what I wanted it making into and then gave up and said he'd call the manager to see how and if they can sell them.
I walked out after the phone call took over a minute. I was really shocked that a place which sold locks and cut keys didn't know what a blank key was despite standing infrot of a rack of them.
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by zeke79 » 31 Oct 2007 14:13
What brand of lock is it? Could you post a clear picture of the keyway. Get the picture as close to the keyway as you cand while still having clear focus and good lighting. At that point I might be able to identify the keyway and get you a blank key or precut key and the pins required to rekey the lock to the new key. I could supply you a price via pm once you have the information I need for the key blank or code cut key and pins for repinning.
I will tell you this much, if the brand name on the lock is "best" then you will not have the tools required to rekey it and will likely not spend the money to buy the expensive tools required to rekey it.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by WOT » 31 Oct 2007 17:12
zeke79 wrote: I will tell you this much, if the brand name on the lock is "best" then you will not have the tools required to rekey it and will likely not spend the money to buy the expensive tools required to rekey it.
If it's a Best lock and it's not a part of a master keyed system, just go on eBay and buy a pre-combinated core with control + operating keys.
Find a locksmith who can drill out an ICORE using a jig. Doing so without the jig will result in a damage to the door hardware.
Once the core is out, vacuum out/blow out the metal shavings(hold a vacuum by the opening, then blow canned air to lift up shavings)
Slip in your new core. You're done.
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by brianmay27 » 31 Oct 2007 21:23
ok it is a schlage lock. I seem to be having good sucess just impressioning it. I will keep trying this and see it i get anywhere. Also it is a 6 pin lock.
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by brianmay27 » 1 Nov 2007 23:40
also just thinking, do any locks have a pick safe thing, so like one pin in the middle is a fake and if moved it cant be unlocked?
just since i cant get it picked could just be me but...
Also i have started the process. I have gone through 2 keys, i just cant see the markings too easly.
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by Trip Doctor » 2 Nov 2007 15:13
WOT wrote:zeke79 wrote: I will tell you this much, if the brand name on the lock is "best" then you will not have the tools required to rekey it and will likely not spend the money to buy the expensive tools required to rekey it.
If it's a Best lock and it's not a part of a master keyed system, just go on eBay and buy a pre-combinated core with control + operating keys. Find a locksmith who can drill out an ICORE using a jig. Doing so without the jig will result in a damage to the door hardware. Once the core is out, vacuum out/blow out the metal shavings(hold a vacuum by the opening, then blow canned air to lift up shavings) Slip in your new core. You're done.
Hmm, if he gets a new core to replace the old one, and has access to the back of the door, can't he just take the handle and the plate stuff apart and take the old core our that way somehow, rather than calling a locksmith to drill the thing? Are BEST locks and assemblies made that if you lose the control key the lock is basically doomed, because that seems like a shame (although I guess that kinda adds to the security of it)??
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by WOT » 3 Nov 2007 0:56
Trip Doctor wrote:Hmm, if he gets a new core to replace the old one, and has access to the back of the door, can't he just take the handle and the plate stuff apart and take the old core our that way somehow, rather than calling a locksmith to drill the thing? Are BEST locks and assemblies made that if you lose the control key the lock is basically doomed, because that seems like a shame (although I guess that kinda adds to the security of it)??
There's no alternative to drilling out the core other than having the control shear picked.
There are two ways to drill out the core.
-Preserving the pinstack. You really have to use a jig or the core won't come out or you'll damage the door hardware.
-Just get it out. Drill right below "BEST" logo, shearing the pins limiting movement of control line. Turn the keyway right.
Tap a screw into the hole made by the drill, then pull by the screw.
A new combinated core isn't very expensive, so if it's not part of a master key system, there's hardly economical benefit to not drilling it out.
If it's a master keyed system, well someone screwed up big time by losing the system chart. If you lose the system chart, change keys become extremely difficult to replace, as any key made by reverse engineering isn't guaranteed to be a change key, but has a good chance of being a sub-master key.
This is getting off topic.. so if you have more Best IC stuff you want to talk about, PM me or start a new thread 
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by raimundo » 3 Nov 2007 8:10
Brian, don't be dissapointed by breaking two keys from your first attempt at impressioning. No experienced impressioner will even start a job with less than a handfull of keyblanks, sure, many guys will guarantee that they can do it in one blank, but this should be interpreted as meaning that they have considerable experience and the last twenty locks they impressioned did not throw out any new experiences, as will happen from time to time. A prudent person coming to a job of impressioning will not want to be stopped by the bumps in the road. they will bring plenty of blanks and the persistence to learn something from them if the going gets rough.
As a new picker, I recommend that you impression a few master padlocks for a while, the skill will develope, and you will have the real keys to use a a reference so if you go wrong, you will be able to figure out what you were doing wrong.
you mentioned that impressioning requires twisting hard on the blank, well yes it does, but it should be said that twisting is not all its about, and twisting just hard enough to do the job without breaking the blank is the real key to impressioning, along with identifiying the correct marking and all the incorrect markings, that you need to avoid.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by brianmay27 » 3 Nov 2007 16:30
Thanks, i had a feeling i would break a few. that is why i got 5  . may need to go back but the guy that sold them to me said this is the first time he ever sold blanks  lucky me  . But i have time so in no rush so i will try as you say. thanks so much
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by brianmay27 » 4 Nov 2007 16:25
hey, i was looking on line and found a bump key, will that work or is it not a good practice?
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