Problem picking ACE II locks

[Raynentye]

I'm fairly new to lockpicking; about 5 years on and off... mostly off. Locksmithing is not my primary job, security and life safety systems installation is.

I have to replace about 13 ACE II 7 pin cabinet locks on one of our customer's properties. All are keyed differently. The previous manager was fired and took the keys. The new locks will all be keyed alike, with one or two spares in my possession!

I had a similar cabinet and attempted to pick the lock with a Southord TPXA-7 seven pin tubular lock picking tool. I've had great luck with this tool on other types but never on an ACE II. After nearly an hour, I gave up.

So I Googled and came up with this site. Apparently, the ACE II and another type... can't remember the name, are specifically difficult.

I see that there is a Mighty Mini Pick on the market that states it can open the ACE II.

Should I purchase this tool or is it possible to QUICKLY open these locks with the picking tool I own? Maybe a technique I am not using?

Any help would be great! Thank you!

[Raynentye]

I ment to hit the Preview button...

I was also thinking about purchasing the Pocket Cut-Up and a bunch of blank ACE tubular keys to make copies for these locks once I pick them open. That way I won't have a pile of useless locks on hand. I really can't see drilling out all the locks. Theres a chance I might ruin the cabinets. They're outdoor cabinets that hold electronic equipment inside. I really don't want them to leak and cause more damage.

Thanks!

[keysman]

Ace 2 are a Royal PIA compaired to standard ace .. if I remember correctly the pins have several serrations to give a " False Set" combined with random spring strength , they can be very difficult at best to pick.

I don't believe there is a quick method to picking these locks .. you will just have to spend some time with them .

You may want to consider .. replacing all the locks .. they are fairly cheep , especially when you consider the value of your time .

[Eyes_Only]

I have the Peterson Pro-1 pick and I still can't open an ACE II.

[Marco]

I haven't had any experience with one myself, but from what I've read, i think the only way to open these is to SPP them. However, to save yourself from picking it 7-times to open, once it has been picked the first time, turn the cylinder only slightly so that it does not re-set. Then you can use the tubular pick to create an impression, and then you are able to completely turn and open the lock.

[Eyes_Only]

Or use a cap from one of those thin Crayola markers.

[raimundo]

does your tool easily set or loosen tension by turning a knurled knob? If it does, loosen it all the way and put it in the lock, then try to determine which pins in the lock have the stiff stainless springs, by simply pushing down on each feeler and decideing which are tough springs and which are not, then pull these tough spring slliders out a bit, and try to get a set on the soft pin sliders, if you think you have that, start pushing the individual slliders in for the tough springs, you will have to tighten the tension a little bit to hold the soft springs, and you may by pushing in on the sliders for the tough springs, feel a set if it happens,

this is not a proven technique, its just a plan that makes some sense to try once I think, let me know if it works for you

[Raynentye]

I really appreciate all the input! I wasn't expecting such a warm welcome. Thank you!

Eyes_Only, I've seen the Peterson Pro 1. That's the tool that looks a bit like a torture device with all the prongs sticking out. There was a vending machine attendant that was trying to open a Coke machine with one. That was a different type of lock though. It had the forward facing pins similar to what you would see in the grooves of a tubular lock, only they were flush with the face of the lock. I think there were 9 pins. Not sure though. Is it called a Peterson lock?

Thank you keysman, Marco, and raimundo. I was afraid it would take a bit too long. Maybe with a bit of practice, I'll get them open a bit quicker than I thought...

I'll try single picking when I get into the shop tomorrow. raimundo, made a copy of your instruction. Yes, my pick does have a knurled tensioner. I'll let you know tomorrow.

Thank you all!

[kg4boj]

you need a TUBULAR LOCK SAW, it simply isn't worth your time or the customers time and money to attempt to pick every last one, now if there is a chance some of them are keyed alike, you can still decode or maybe even pick one of those cylinders to make a key that might work a few of the others, but the chances of that from what you said are slim to none.

[Raynentye]

Hey kg4boj, that doesn't seem like a bad idea. Most even state that they only last about three or four times. They're about $40 USD and I'll need five worse case scenario, so that's about $200 USD.

Gonna practice to see if I can pick one using the SPP method to see how long it takes. If it takes too long, I'll have to opt for the drill bits.

It'd be nice if I could do it with a bit of finesse. But sometimes brute force is the only way...

Thanks!

[kg4boj]

You can saw one, and if they are all truly keyed diffrent, once you have one off you will know how they are mounted. If they have a simple round hole with a lock nut, then you might be able to get a grip on em with vise grips or channel locks and spin them out (knowing witch direction will open the lock)
It is possible to take a cordless dremel and slot the face of the lock in a few directions and take a hefty screwdriver and twist, breaking apart the face of the lock then just a simple bang with a 3 pound mini sledge on a 3/8" punch will knock it out the back without damage to the cabnets. If they have the double D style cutouts, with 2 flats, then you shouldnt try to spin them, especially if its thin guage aluminum.

I think I have sawed through as many as 10-15 locks before with a tubular lock saw but I always give my bits lubrication and keep them cool. WD-40, or cutting fluid (blue stuff mixed with water in a wash bottle) will make things like that last MUCH longer but need something to absorb the fluid.

Also check out US lock. I think we can order them for 10-15$ each when we order 300$ of stuff or more..

If you don't mind a little extra time then a dremel job might be for you, just use those EZ change cutoff wheels instead of the crappy little ones that screw onto the mandrel.

Tell the customer that if you key them all alike it will take you a matter of minutes to drill one and decode the rest if they were to loose a key. They might be pleased with that.

[Raynentye]

Yeah, I already have one of the cabinets on the bench. Thought of spinning them out, but they have the two flat sides on each end of the hole. Its a heavy gauge steel outdoor rated box with a gasket seal. I am going to install keyed-alike locksets. I just ordered them from the local locksmith (No help with suggestions, by the way. Not like I'm going to take away any of his business).

Thanks for the input. More would most definitely be welcome.

[Gordon Airporte]

And that's enough destructive entry discussion in the open forums guys.
You're asking for a thread lock.

[kg4boj]

Well I was trying to help him with a job but I told him the long way of destructive entry that only works in his camlock application, and does no damage to the other hardware.... I guess if anyone wants advice as to what a professional locksmith would do... just PM me with your questions.

[Raynentye]

Thanks again for the tips kg4boj.

Gordon Airporte, I did not mean to violate forum protocol. My primary means of entry is through picking the lock, legitimately, and legally. I will keep anything else under advisement. I just wish there was a faster way of picking the ACE II locks. As we all know, it isn't happy puppies and candy that make this world go round (Although it would be a much safer and happier place if they did) its money that does (and the oil barons) and time is money.

If there is another way to pick these locks, I'd be happy to accept your advice.

How do we get an invite or application to the Locked Forums anyways?