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by rwp42 » 14 Nov 2007 11:11
Just a brief follow-up: I received my certification card from FB last night, and the final batch of my test results (I scored 100% on all tests). With each exam they return to you, they include coupons or special offers for various locksmithing items. You can definitely save some money by taking advantage of these. The best deal so far is a LAB 0.003" pinning kit with 124 sizes of top/bottom pins plus six sizes of spool pins and springs -- 50 of each -- in a metal case for $159. LAB doesn't normally sell universal kits with spool pins, and they typically cost upwards of $200. Spiffy.
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by TigerDragon » 15 Nov 2007 14:42
Here's a story about the pin tumbler impressioning lesson along with tips on what worked and did not work for me.
The lock they sent for this lesson had a threaded casing. I didn't want to damage the threads in my vice, so I wanted something to protect them. My first thought was to use some of the rubber bands I had lying around, so I wrapped the casing in a layer of rubber bands and viced it up for my first attempt. The problem was the rubber bands allowed the lock to move too much and the marks were off if they marked at all.
My next thought was to purchase one of the clamps they sell in the wholesale catalog and use a "proper" tool. The clamp arrived and I was disappointed in its size. It is thinner than the lock, which meant the lock still jumped around in the vice no matter how tightly I screwed it down on the clamp. It also introduced a new problem in that the lock actually turned in the clamp because there wasn't enough friction to prevent it from rotating. I tried various things to prevent the rotation, but none of them worked.
The final solution was simple, and I kicked myself repeatedly today after I figured it out. I started my course several months ago and this particular lesson has been nagging me for most of them. The solution to making the lock stay still without damaging the threads is to use a cloth. If you lay the cloth over the vice, lay the lock over the cloth, and slide the lock down into the gap before cinching the vice down on the lock, the cloth protects the lock. I did the impressioning lesson over lunch today when I thought of this method, and it only took me 20 minutes to complete.
The other tip I have to offer is to get a set of files that include a square file, round file, and warding file. I didn't buy mine through foley belsaw, but rather from home depot. They're smaller than the files FB supplied, and work better, too. Use one of these to start the cut when you see the marks, then use a pippin file (and I DID buy this from FB) to finish the cut. The pippin file and a better set of the other files really are worth purchasing.
Next on my list is to set the key machine up and finish out the course!
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TigerDragon
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by rwp42 » 15 Nov 2007 16:18
Excellent tips, TigerDragon. I bought the practice lock set (it includes five blanks per lock), and was going to try impressioning all of them for the experience. I'll use your cloth suggestion.
Good luck setting up the key machine -- patience is a virtue that will be rewarded.
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by TigerDragon » 15 Nov 2007 16:20
Thanks. If I think I learned more than enough patience from the last impressioning lesson
I'll probably order the practice locks set later so I can work on impressioning some more, as well... it's a great skill.
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by yoyoboy » 15 Nov 2007 18:42
TigerDragon, don't worry about scratching up he mortise cylinder, you 1. won't be impressioning that many mortise cylinders, most of your impressioning work will be with uncoded pin and wafer tumbler filling-cabinet locks, and automotive locks. and 2. the mortise cylinder wound be mounted in a door.
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by TigerDragon » 16 Nov 2007 10:05
I would assume the cylinder would be mounted in a door of some sort. Probably to a heavy wooden cabinet, given it's design. It looks like the tail piece is designed to throw a bolt of some sort
And the reason I care about damaging the threads is I get to keep the lock. I might want to actually mount it for display (if I do a lock display board) and/or for further picking/impressioning practice in future.
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by rwp42 » 20 Nov 2007 12:24
I received my diploma from FB, packaged with the book/exam for the first two advanced courses: 'high security locks' -- just a read item, no test; and 'safes' -- with a 40-question exam.
The diploma is printed on nice paper with a gold seal.
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by rwp42 » 23 Nov 2007 0:51
I just completed the Advanced Locksmithing course. Most of the course covers Safes and Safe Deposit Boxes. The test (40 multiple choice questions) was actually the hardest one I've had from FB so far. I found myself reading and re-reading the material to absorb everything.
There was a lot of great information on the different types of combination safe locks, how to recombinate them, and alternative entry techniques. I really learned a lot.
Once graded I will be sent the "Advanced Locksmith Diploma" and (I think) a final course on alarm systems and my pick gun.
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by rwp42 » 5 Dec 2007 14:29
FB sent me my (Ilco) pick gun for completing the advanced exam. I have no experience with any others, but this one seems very well made and works a LOT better than I expected.
They also sent me the business startup pack. This includes a set of generic business cards (with room to write in your own name/number), two pads of generic invoices and authorization forms, and a nice vinyl locksmith sign. They also include a few pages that show sample yellow pages ad layouts.
I haven't received the Alarm course yet. I think that's the only thing that is currently outstanding.
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by rwp42 » 6 Dec 2007 14:36
I received my Security Alarm course from FB yesterday. It is a rather thick book containing 20+ lessons. The course goes spends much of its time explaining very basic electrical theory (types of circuits, voltage, current, how to use a multimeter, etc...). It also covers different types of switches and sensors, explains how to 'tape' a window with foil, and describes the basics of wiring a typical premises.
It does not go into a lot of detail on control boxes -- probably because they vary widely between manufacturers.
I did not personally get a lot out of this course. I already have a basic electronics background, and didn't get a lot more than that that was really alarm-specific. I did not come away from the course feeling like I was ready to begin doing alarm installations and maintenance.
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by RolandD » 13 Feb 2008 5:39
I started the FB course shortly before finding LP101. My thanks to everyone who has posted their experiences here. After reading all 27 pages, I feel I made the right decision in taking the course. Although, I wish I had known about the $599 deal before I signed up.
I completed the first 5 lessons as soon as I received them, and am now waiting on the next set. I will post updates on my progress.
I've also ordered some used locks off eBay to practice on.
Tim Aydt
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by Servalite6354 » 20 Mar 2008 18:34
rwp42 wrote:I received my Security Alarm course from FB yesterday. It is a rather thick book containing 20+ lessons. The course goes spends much of its time explaining very basic electrical theory (types of circuits, voltage, current, how to use a multimeter, etc...). It also covers different types of switches and sensors, explains how to 'tape' a window with foil, and describes the basics of wiring a typical premises.
RwP
Is this something that you send back to FB? Or is it like the safe lesson, "just a read - through"? Also, is this another course, or is it included in the initial locksmithing course?
I am seriously considering taking the FB course. It's been awhile since I initially contacted them, and I received the 599 offer yesterday.
I see you haven't posted anymore in this thread since December. How are things going with your locksmith business? Are you taking more training?
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