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by WOT » 16 Nov 2007 3:46
It's a standard pin and tumbler key made from stainless steel.
How do you cut them? Apparently, I'm not supposed to use a standard key machine cutter.
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by Eyes_Only » 16 Nov 2007 5:57
I think most key machine manufactures carry cutter wheels made just for such types of keys.
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by WOT » 16 Nov 2007 7:45
Eyes_Only wrote:I think most key machine manufactures carry cutter wheels made just for such types of keys.
You're thinking of slotter keys for steel safe deposit box and locker keys. These keys don't have slopes are flat steel blade with slot cuts. The cutter only cuts vertically and not a milling cutter.
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by keysman » 16 Nov 2007 8:57
For the Stainless Steel " L" blanks.., I have had good success with an HPC 1200 with a CARBIDE wheel.... take your time and cut slowly,
I broke a Blue Punch on a SS "L" so I would not recommend you try that.
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by raimundo » 16 Nov 2007 9:52
what does the 35-100 mean, is that some kind of euro designation in metric like the numbers on an abus lock are?
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by zeke79 » 16 Nov 2007 10:08
It is the actual schlage numbering system for the blanks.
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by MBI » 16 Nov 2007 20:07
I just bought some steel 35-056L blanks a couple of weeks ago. They're the IC control key version of the 35-100L (picture on the bottom left). They seem to be getting harder to find, maybe because now that Schlage has the Everest keyways, they're not doing too much with their old numbered and lettered keyways anymore. If you’re concerned about steel blanks, Ilco makes a brass version of this key. Brass may be a bit flimsy on a key blank this thin, but if you’re interested their item number for this key is 1145L (picture on the bottom right).
I was worried about messing up one of my cutting wheels on these so when I bought them I asked if I needed a carbide cutter. A guy at my supplier said he has cut a lot of them and as long as you go really slow he said he’s never had a problem when using a regular cutting wheel, but I haven’t tried it yet so I can’t personally vouch for this. If you find a method that works for you without damaging your equipment please post it back here.

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by zeke79 » 16 Nov 2007 22:21
Yikes on using a regular HSS cutting wheel. I am not sure I would risk it but that is just me. I kind of wish I had a spare cutting large pin cutting wheel for my blitz to try this as I sure as heck not trying it on my ITL.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by WOT » 17 Nov 2007 3:46
MBI wrote:I just bought some steel 35-056L blanks a couple of weeks ago.
WHERE?! and how much? I was worried about messing up one of my cutting wheels on these so when I bought them I asked if I needed a carbide cutter. A guy at my supplier said he has cut a lot of them and as long as you go really slow he said he’s never had a problem when using a regular cutting wheel, but I haven’t tried it yet so I can’t personally vouch for this. If you find a method that works for you without damaging your equipment please post it back here.
Perhaps on a rotary file. Milling cutter bites off a small section of the blank with each cutter contact and I'd be afraid it would grab and snap off a tooth or two. I managed to do that with brass.
Ilco says I shouldn't do it, even with the TiN coated version.
The carbide cutter for HPC 1200 for Schlage type keys is $580....
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by raimundo » 17 Nov 2007 9:19
the diagramed blank has the seventh pin cut for key control, (changing out ic cores) but the brass dnd bow blank is just six pin.
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by MBI » 17 Nov 2007 11:52
I picked up the 35-056L blanks at a wholesale locksmith supply place. They were old stock and I bought the last six they had. They don't even stock the Schlage 35-100L blanks anymore. The guy I usually deal with over there said he couldn't even remember the last time anyone asked for them. I had to buy the Ilco 1145L keys in order to be able to cut any change keys.
You're right raimundo, in rereading my earlier post I realize I should have been more specific because it does sound kind of like I said the Ilco key is a brass version of the steel control key blank. To clarify: in the pictures of key blanks I posted above, the one on the left is a steel 35-056L control key blank and the one on the right is a brass Ilco DND Neuter Bow version of the Schlage 35-100L key blanks that WOT purchased.
WOT, PM me and let me know specifically what you need, with quantities. If it’s the 35-056L blanks, they’re out of them and it didn’t sound like they planned to resupply, but I can have them check availability from Schlage on a special order. On the 35-100L blanks, the Ilco number is 1145L but they make both a 5 pin and 6 pin version so verify what you order. I just looked it up again and noticed that Jet also makes a nickel-silver version of the 35-100L, their item number is 101-L-NS.
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by keysman » 18 Nov 2007 23:34
I have some of the Stainless Steel 6 pin " L" blanks not sure how many but at least 1 box of 50 ..maybe more
PM me if you want /need some
of course interesting trades are always welcome 
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by WOT » 19 Nov 2007 7:55
keysman wrote:I have some of the Stainless Steel 6 pin " L" blanks not sure how many but at least 1 box of 50 ..maybe more PM me if you want /need some of course interesting trades are always welcome 
What do you use to cut it? HPC 1200 with the $580 carbide wheel, or something else?
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by Wolfe » 19 Nov 2007 8:13
Dont use the standard wheel! You have to get a carbide wheel for stainless.You know this WOT.
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by WOT » 19 Nov 2007 8:27
Wolfe wrote:Dont use the standard wheel! You have to get a carbide wheel for stainless.You know this WOT.
Now that I read his first post and realized.. oops.. brain fart.
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