
These are the blades I use and this is what my template looks like. I make it by scanning an existing pick or using one of the templates I found on the web.

This is the template glued on the blade. I use crazy glue because the water doesn't affect it when I am quenching the blade. Sometimes there are fumes but the shop is well ventilated so it isn't a major concern. In retrospect this was just a template of a pick put on a copy machine and it could have been better but I was trying to work quickly to get the tutorial done.

Here I am roughing the blade into a shape that closely resembles the pick I want. I am just using a standard grinding wheel here. Please remember to have a cup of water hand to quench the blade and keep it from getting hot. I did every few seconds so the heat doesn’t ruin the blade. If it is getting warm it is time to dip.

Here's just one more pic at the grinding wheel shaping the pick to an approximate shape.

Notice the dremel I use is mounted to a bench. This gives a much higher degree of accuracy when using the dremel. I couldn't imagine using a dremel without it mounted when making picks. I am just using a standard dremel grinding wheel to get the detail closer. Go slow and don’t cut, think of it more like shaving the metal off. The hose is attached to a giant vacuum that catches the debris.

This is the pick after being roughed into shape. Because I used a so-so template the handle is too wide right now. Not until I am ready to polish do I notice it. It doesn't pay to be in a hurry. The paper is still glued onto the blade at this time.

Here's a close up of the blade after being roughed into shape.

This is the 3M deburring wheel I use to remove the paint, paper and any residual sharp edges. It leaves the pick sanded to about 600 grit. This is the biggest help and makes working with metal a dream.

Here's the pick with some of the paint and paper removed but still needing a little more work.

Now I use the dremel with a kratex bit to get the finishing touches on the areas that need more detail then the 3M deburring wheel can do. I shape the kratex bit with a grinding stone to make it easier to get into the small areas. Just hold part of an old grinding wheel against the bit while it is spinning and you can get whatever shape you need.

This is the pick before being getting the final polish and the handle is still too wide. I just noticed it at this point and I took care of it. I make the handles 5/16" wide.

Here's the polishing compound I use on the picks. I actually use #2, #6 and an finer jewelry rouge we get from a mail order house. You'll notice this isn't the wheel I am using in the next picture. The next wheel you will see is the finish wheel.

Here I am on the final finish wheel working to get the shine just right. This wheel is a 6" polish wheel you can find at lowes for about $6.

Here is the finished pick. It actually got a once over on the final polishing wheel again because it wasn't perfect here but you get the idea.
I really want to thank everyone here for the help. I also want to thank my close friend Craig Chin for everything he taught me about working with metal and for dealing with me in the shop. Like I said, please feel free to ask any questions you have and I will be happy to answer.