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Depth keys

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Depth keys

Postby tecnovist » 19 Jan 2008 14:10

Hi all what is memt by shimming a pin tumbler lock with depth keys ---- Thanks
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Postby gstrendkill » 19 Jan 2008 14:23

im pretty sure depth keys are bump keys.

its a way of wording so they can be sold on ebay
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Postby maintenanceguy » 19 Jan 2008 15:03

You "shim" a pin tumbler lock by sliding a thin metal shim (really thin - .001" thick) between the shell and the housing. The top pins end up on top of the shim in the housing and the bottom pins end up under the shim in the plug.

this is not a way to pick a lock since you can only do this from the back of the cylinder after the cylinder's removed from the lock.

When you insert the shim into the back of the cylinder, it will hit the last pin. You need to raise this pin to the shear line to get the shim to slip between the top and bottom pins. I guess you could do this with depth keys, trying different depths until you get it right. But it's pretty easy to do with an uncut key blank. Just insert the blank slowly and the tip will raise each pin until the shim slips in.

Maybe you would want to do this with depth keys so you'll know the depth of each key cut to figure out a key's bitting?
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Postby NickBristol » 19 Jan 2008 15:17

Depth keys aren't bump keys, although you're right it is a common way to describe bump keys on ebay.

They are more properly called Depth and Spacing keys because their purpose it to provide the exact depth of pin and exact spacing for a particular lock. A blank is cut to the first depth at each space, then another blank is cut to the second depth at each space and so on.

A depth key cut at the deepest depth (eg 9 9 9 9 9) can be used as a bump key, with some modification.

I cant think of a reason to use a depth key when shimming a cylinder from the rear, and the flange on the front of the plug prevents shimming from the front.
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Postby gstrendkill » 19 Jan 2008 16:36

NickBristol wrote:Depth keys aren't bump keys, although you're right it is a common way to describe bump keys on ebay.

They are more properly called Depth and Spacing keys because their purpose it to provide the exact depth of pin and exact spacing for a particular lock. A blank is cut to the first depth at each space, then another blank is cut to the second depth at each space and so on.

A depth key cut at the deepest depth (eg 9 9 9 9 9) can be used as a bump key, with some modification.

I cant think of a reason to use a depth key when shimming a cylinder from the rear, and the flange on the front of the plug prevents shimming from the front.


thanks Nick for clearing that up for me :)
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Postby cool-arrow » 19 Jan 2008 16:45

NickBristol wrote:Depth keys aren't bump keys, although you're right it is a common way to describe bump keys on ebay.

They are more properly called Depth and Spacing keys because their purpose it to provide the exact depth of pin and exact spacing for a particular lock. A blank is cut to the first depth at each space, then another blank is cut to the second depth at each space and so on.

A depth key cut at the deepest depth (eg 9 9 9 9 9) can be used as a bump key, with some modification.

I cant think of a reason to use a depth key when shimming a cylinder from the rear, and the flange on the front of the plug prevents shimming from the front.


They would help a lot if you are shimming a lock with security pins. Other than that you can just use your picks or a keyblank.
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Postby WOT » 19 Jan 2008 17:10

Depth keys are template keys cut on a key machine to specs for each key system type so you can originate/alter a key on a duplicator without having access to a code machine.

It's a poor mans code machine alternative.
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Postby tecnovist » 20 Jan 2008 0:10

I thank every one for there information you have given -----that has cleared that up for my --- sounds like it's a hard way to get throw the a well locked door ------- Thanks tecnovist
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Postby guest5999 » 20 Jan 2008 3:14

it's not a way of getting through a door at all. it only works if you have a lock with access to the back of it, i.e. after it's been taken out of a door. it is, however, useful for taking apart a lock that you already have access to (whether by picking, bumping, the door already being unlocked, etc) but no key.
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Postby linty » 20 Jan 2008 8:22

i've actually worked with very old locks before that could be shimmed from the front. I mean like 80 years old. I won't go into specifics because it would probably be considered advanced but still interesting to note.
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Postby maintenanceguy » 20 Jan 2008 16:57

Here's a couple of pictures of a lock being shimmed for anyone who can't quite picture it.

As the shim is slid in, the pins have to be raised to the shear line. An uncut key is a good way to do this, as you slowly slid the key out and let each pin lower, the shim just sort of slips along until it's all the way in. Easier and faster than picking in most cases if you have a lock to disassemble to rekey.

It's not a way to open a lock. The plug has a wide ridge on the face side of the lock so a shim can only be inserted from the back after the cylinder and the plug retainer is removed

Image

Image
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Postby Raymond » 21 Jan 2008 0:04

Shimming with a depth key is not a very effective way to shim a lock. As soon as you catch the first (tip) pin, your depth key will be locked in place and you cannot move it to do the next. As previously stated, use a key blank or a pick to move the pins.
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Postby freakparade3 » 21 Jan 2008 11:05

Blank key is definately the way to go. For shims you can use the metal out of security tags. Look inside your DVD cases. These don't work as well as commercial ones, but will work in a pinch.
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