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by Varjeal » 9 Oct 2003 10:53
The "center" when picking tubular locks is where the stationary pin on the lock pick would be or the 12 o'clock position. This is the notch in the lock that would allow the "key" to enter the lock itself.
Knowing this, a right offset would then mean that the first pin (clockwise) would be extremely close to the "center" with a gap between the 10-12 o'clock position.
A left offset would be the opposite.
Hope this helps, and hope I remembered correctly. I'll check and repost if I'm wrong.
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Varjeal
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by swat3652 » 9 Oct 2003 13:03
when i put the pick into the lock, not all of the feelers are being pushed back. i tried to adjust the tension slide on the pick, but it doesn't seem to help at all. any suggestions?
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by Varjeal » 9 Oct 2003 13:14
There are a few things to consider.
1. You may have too much tension on the pick, which you've tried to adjust, though it takes some practice and experience.
2. Insure that all the feelers are flush with the base of the pick before inserting it into the lock.
3. It may not need to move if the pins are 0's or 1's.
4. Insure that when you use the pick, you are pushing straight and turning the correct direction. It is important not to "rock" the pick back and forth as you may accidentally push one or more further than necessary, and then have to reset the pick.
Good luck, and hope this helps.
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by DrDave » 9 Oct 2003 13:19
Picking "Offset" Tubular Locks - DrDave-USA (Reposted from another page, but I have added extra TEXT about the "Notch")
OK, You have a 7-pin tubular lock and a South-Ord 7-Pin Pick, however the Picking Rods DO NOT line up with the pins, but the tool "Fits" into the cylinder. Here is one way to pick that lock...
BUY an 8-Pin South-Ord Tubular Pick!!! This is basically the SAME tool with Picking Rods evenly space all the way around the Lock. Pull Back the Picking-Rod(s) that have no tumbler(s) in that area of the Lock. Still place the pick into the "Notch" and make sure you are unable to turn the tool in either (or at least ONE) direction. This allows for tension needed to open the lock.
You can find the "Notch" on the Picking Tool by looking into the Center hole at the tip-end of the tool. I used a "Metallic" (silver) colored Sharpie to Mark the Sliding Rod where the "Notch is.
Follow the Standard "Impression" or my "Preferred Method" posted on another page of this site. The Link is: viewtopic.php?t=349
Sell, give away, or keep the 7-Pin tool around. Please POST your results!!!
DrDave-USA
Picking locks since 1969....
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by joecool2727 » 9 Oct 2003 16:49
but if i used a 8-pin pick then there would be one extra feeler because the lock is only seven pins. O well, is there anyone that would maybe want to buy a new 7-pin tubular pick for $50 with shipping?
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by DrDave » 10 Oct 2003 13:37
YES, There is an EXTRA "Sliding-Rod"!!! PULL IT ALL THE WAY BACK!!! Re-Read the above post... U missed something.
DrDave
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DrDave
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by swat3652 » 11 Oct 2003 23:51
ok, i finally got it!!! i picked my first tubular lock. however, after i opened it i never brought it back to the locked position, so now it is jammed in the open position and can't get it reset. any ideas? thanks.
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by Bitter Man » 12 Oct 2003 9:42
Im no tubular lock expert but ive heard horror stories about this when trying to pick it with a normal wrench and a half diamond. I'd guess just put tension back the other way and pick it again.
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by swat3652 » 12 Oct 2003 12:29
i picked it with a tubular pick. is there anyway to reset the lock with the tubular pick, or am i going to have to use a half-diamond and a wrench? i suck!
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by Bitter Man » 12 Oct 2003 12:45
No no no. Repick it in the opposite direction with the tubular pick.
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by joecool2727 » 12 Oct 2003 23:37
that same exact thing happened to me, i picked it then took out the pick without putting back in the lock position. at first i tryed to re-pick it but that didnt work. the way i turned it was by taking the key and shaving off the little part on the outside of the key so that i can put it into the lock. then i just turn it and i can still use the key. so my advice is if you have the key file off the metal piece sticking out at the top and just put it into the lock.
You can run, but you'll just die tired.
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by Bitter Man » 13 Oct 2003 0:19
Yea, that sounds like the best way. You sound like you've had difficulty picking the lock in the first place so the key is probably the best approach in terms of fixing the lock. If not you may just have to junk the lock or replace it.
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by DrDave » 16 Oct 2003 11:23
Settle Down!!!!
First, TRY to pick the lock "OPEN" again... Your lock is "Stuck" Half-Way. Then, when it's OPEN:
1) KEEP FULL TENSION ON IT!!! AND PUSH ALL RODS DOWN... They will now create a Key Template.
2) MOVE THE BRASS RING OR WHATEVER ELSE TO "LOCK" THE PICKING RODS!!!
3) Once the "Rods" are locked you can pick & un pick the lock all day long... You now have what amounts to a KEY!!!
Keep everyone "Posted"... Pardon the pun.
DrDave-USA
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by Varjeal » 16 Oct 2003 11:35
I would edit Dr. Dave's post slightly.
Keep full tension on the lock, once picked, but DON'T push the rods down, just tighten the ring or do whatever is necessary to lock the feelers in the position that they are in.
Once you've done this you can use your pick like a key. I guess it depends, however, on the operation of your pick, but that should work. No offense, Dr. Dave.
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Varjeal
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by DrDave » 16 Oct 2003 11:40
If this is a Tubular lock that has an "OPEN" & "Locked" Notch, Then, of course, pick it "Backwards"... The above text was when U pick a Tubular with only ONE NOTCH and it is Spring-Loaded on the last-half of opening it.
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