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Padlocks in general... HELP!

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Padlocks in general... HELP!

Postby YakNuts » 20 Feb 2008 17:45

Im really new to picking. Ive managed to pick just about every lock Ive tried (deadbolts, knobs, desk locks, hitchlocks) but cant for the life of me pick a padlock. Ive tried two different Masterlock No. 3's and a Brinks and cant get either of them. Im using home brew tools; a tension wrench made out of a wiper blade, a hook and a half diamond made from hacksaw blades.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
YakNuts
 
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Postby Tuniz » 20 Feb 2008 17:51

You´re probably struggling with security pins. No ideá what kind of pins you guys have in Master's locks but guessing serrated or spool.

Keep an even lighter pressure on the tension wrench so you´ll be able to pick the lock "a second time" if the spools / serrated pins does their jobs.

There are tons of guides, videos and links on this forum, you just gotta find them :).


Once you´ve gotten it open once and are familiar with what kind of pressure you need on the tension wrench it´s gonna be alot easier to pick in the future.

Good luck and happy picki'n!
The swedish locksmith, Tuniz
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Postby YakNuts » 20 Feb 2008 17:56

thanks, thats what I thought. It seems like even when the first binding pin is "set" (or so it seems) theres not that slight movement in the tumbler. Both of the Masters are pretty old. How long have security pins been around?
YakNuts
 
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Postby dougfarre » 20 Feb 2008 18:20

viewtopic.php?t=30419
Look at what I said about holding the padlocks, and about the tension.,.
Image
Have questions about Locksport International? -> doug@locksport.com
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Postby TheCrow » 20 Feb 2008 21:35

Just a thought, I don't believe any Masterlock #3 has any type of special pins (I.E. serrated or spool). Just keep in mind when you're picking to find the binding pin before pushing on them. I found in my ML #3 that the 1st binding pin isn't the first pin. Mine gives me a bit of trouble though because it seems as though that locks springs are a little tighter than any other lock I've tried.

I'm not the best a picking, I'll admit that but I do know quite a bit about it. Read a lot of articles and know exactly what's going on inside the lock, so I hope this helps out.

Good Luck,
TheCrow
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Postby robin11 » 22 Feb 2008 2:47

TheCrow wrote: Read a lot of articles and know exactly what's going on inside the lock, so I hope this helps out.


There are many topics in this forum about you solution. good luck
robin11
 
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Postby YakNuts » 22 Feb 2008 22:26

Thanks for the help
YakNuts
 
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Postby SnowyBoy » 23 Feb 2008 11:30

If its because the lock is a bit stiff, then scrape some pencil lead into dust and put it in the lock.

That will make the pins slide a little smoother ;)
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!

I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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Postby reenignE » 26 Feb 2008 0:19

SnowyBoy wrote:If its because the lock is a bit stiff, then scrape some pencil lead into dust and put it in the lock.

That will make the pins slide a little smoother ;)



ohh, good idea. I needed some graphite lube for one of my locks but couldn't get a hold of any. great alternative.
Image
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Postby Abus » 25 Mar 2008 21:46

Nothing against graphite I suppose, but on a laminated padlock, I'd probably just hose it out with a quality spray lube. Even the reviled WD-40 would work better than nothing.

I've picked and impressioned a lot of ML#3s and none of them, ancient or newer had any security pins of any type. However, some of them, needed to be picked a second pass after setting all the pins once. Whether this was due to the shape of the driver (top) pin, or beveled edges on the plug holes, I do not know.

Depending on the exact model brinks, it may be a very difficult lock with security pins, or a cheap master copy that opens easy. Knowing what it is would be useful in giving advise.
Abus
 
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