Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by bumber » 16 Mar 2008 21:17
Has anyone used these, are they harder to bump? I now thats not what the site is about...which leads me to my REAL  question, would this affect picking at all, if any thing it looks like it makes one of the pins easier to set. Because they have something like a spool pin which is an upside down T but it...well here it looks like check this out
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bumber
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by Beyond » 16 Mar 2008 21:40
bumber wrote:Has anyone used these, are they harder to bump? I now thats not what the site is about...which leads me to my REAL  question, would this affect picking at all, if any thing it looks like it makes one of the pins easier to set. Because they have something like a spool pin which is an upside down T but it...well here it looks like check this out
They can be bumped, yes, but it's much, much more difficult. Because of the unique "anti-bump" pin, cuts to that corresponding stack can only be a 1 or a 2.
Given the 5 stacks, that leaves you with 10 unique keys such as 99919 or 99929. Get the point? You're pretty much accounting on hitting that unique stack(and there's only one per lock) with the actual depth it should be. So, in other words, those 9 cuts are doing their job to bump but the last one is actually setting the "anti-bump" pin where it should be.
I've done this, but I knew the cut on my shop's lock so I didn't have to cut those 10 keys.
As for picking, I can't say much on that. I was much more interested in bumping it because of it's claim.
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Beyond
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by bumber » 16 Mar 2008 21:56
They can be bumped, yes, but it's much, much more difficult. Because of the unique "anti-bump" pin, cuts to that corresponding stack can only be a 1 or a 2.
So would the pin thats cut to 1-2 mean that it would have to be really 20 keys or is the one pin like a regular pin...like does it have to be exact?
I mean since you knew the cut maby you made it a good cut?
what did you cut the bump pin to, like all the others are low what was the bump pin cut to.
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bumber
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by Beyond » 16 Mar 2008 22:55
bumber wrote:They can be bumped, yes, but it's much, much more difficult. Because of the unique "anti-bump" pin, cuts to that corresponding stack can only be a 1 or a 2.
So would the pin thats cut to 1-2 mean that it would have to be really 20 keys or is the one pin like a regular pin...like does it have to be exact? I mean since you knew the cut maby you made it a good cut? what did you cut the bump pin to, like all the others are low what was the bump pin cut to.
I have no idea what you're asking.
There are 10 different possibilities because of 5 unique pin stacks positions with 2 possible cuts on 1 of those pin stacks.
5 unique positions x 2 cuts (1 and 2) = 10 Bump Keys
19999
29999
91999
92999
99199
99299
99919
99929
99991
99992
See how that works?
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Beyond
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by bumber » 16 Mar 2008 23:15
I have no idea what you're asking.
Ya me too  I didnt know if you had to cut the key for the bump pin 1 cut lower than it or 2 or if it had to be the exact cut of the pin which made me think if you cut the the 10 keys one cut lower than the bump pin and 10 keys 2 cuts lower if that would help the odds at all, guess my question is how close the the working key does the bumpkey have to be to the bump pin.
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bumber
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by mh » 17 Mar 2008 0:13
Can you bump this anti-bump pin with a -say- 99992 even if it's a xxxx1?
And I would believe there's no such anti-bump pin in the front stack, it would be too obvious to see, right?
Cheers,
mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
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mh
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by bumber » 17 Mar 2008 0:25
mh wrote:it would be too obvious to see, right?
Seeing how they are red I would say YES!!  (check the link in my first post  )
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by Beyond » 17 Mar 2008 5:27
mh wrote:Can you bump this anti-bump pin with a -say- 99992 even if it's a xxxx1?
Wouldn't know, haven't tried. And I would believe there's no such anti-bump pin in the front stack, it would be too obvious to see, right?
Cheers, mh
It's a regular bottom pin. Whether or not the gap is largest enough to indicate if its the stack with the "anti-bump" pin, I do not know.
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Beyond
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by Beyond » 17 Mar 2008 5:27
bumber wrote:mh wrote:it would be too obvious to see, right?
Seeing how they are red I would say YES!!  (check the link in my first post  )
They aren't red. That was just for illustration purposes.
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Beyond
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by bumber » 17 Mar 2008 5:57
I know I was just joking hints the  and you cant see them in the keyway anyhow....
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bumber
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by Beyond » 17 Mar 2008 16:33
Yeah, in that thread you can see my preliminary conclusions about this concept. Only after did I read the article in the last National Locksmith did I realize what you actually needed to bump it.
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Beyond
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by SnowyBoy » 18 Mar 2008 7:27
I suppose you could feel around on the pins for the loose one, lift it till it sets the oversized pin, then just have a master key that you can attach parts to raise the pin clear so you can continue to bump.
Wouldn't be too hard to do 
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!
I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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by Beyond » 18 Mar 2008 10:57
SnowyBoy wrote:I suppose you could feel around on the pins for the loose one, lift it till it sets the oversized pin, then just have a master key that you can attach parts to raise the pin clear so you can continue to bump. Wouldn't be too hard to do 
Great idea. Even better to add to the plan of attack.
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Beyond
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by SnowyBoy » 18 Mar 2008 11:28
Beyond wrote:SnowyBoy wrote:I suppose you could feel around on the pins for the loose one, lift it till it sets the oversized pin, then just have a master key that you can attach parts to raise the pin clear so you can continue to bump. Wouldn't be too hard to do 
Great idea. Even better to add to the plan of attack.
Keep us posted
You know what I mean I'm sure.....but for the benefit of everyone else I'll try to let them visualize the key.
Imagine a simple 999 key, then in between each peak you drill a .03mm hole, then proceed to tap that hole.
Then have triangular segments with the tiniest dowel poking out the bottom (to wind into the tapped holes on the key). You would need only 2 segments.....as like was mentioned, the master bumpstop uses either a 1 or 2 profile.
Once you've had a wiggle round in the lock to see which one is the bump stop pin (should be easily detected from it being loose in the plug)....you grab your custom key, start with a 1 profile segment, and wind it into the key in the right place. The segment will make up the gap which usually foils bumping, and the lock will bump as easy as any other unprotected lock 
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!
I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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SnowyBoy
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